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I want to swap the distributor. I feel that it may be contributing to my lack of power, amongst other things I know. What's the best ICM, distributor, coil combination for present set up?
I had a similar setup as you. 302, Holley 600, Performer RPM, 1.6 ratio roller rockers, and an unknown comps cam, with the stock duraspark II distributor.. Have you messed with your current distributor? Modified engines generally want more than the 10 degrees of base timing, and generally less than the insane amount of mechanical and vacuum advance that the factory duraspark II gives. If you're that interested in buying a new distributor you can go for it, if you want to do some tuning: http://www.reincarnation-automotive....ons_index.html
Besides this, your lack of power problem is probably because your F100 likely has 2.75 gears. With my 302, with the kickdown working properly, it would hold first gear until ~48mph, and 2nd to 85+.
What gear ratio did you have? Mine is 2.75. Looked at tag bout a month ago. Eventually will put in a cam. And what about the timing could I change to get more low end power
I used to complain of the same power problem as you, when my distributor had the stock, very stiff and retarded advance springs in it. I installed the new ones from the kit I bought from Oreilly's (Mr. Gasket # 925D) Costs $3.99 but needs to be ordered most likely. Change those if you haven't. Clean every part in the distributor and lube everything accordingly. I recommend using the medium spring that's already in the distributor, and replace the heavy spring with a light spring from the kit for starters. This allows the timing advance to come in faster. What a difference it made on mine. It went from NO torque to LOTS of torque.
What gear ratio did you have? Mine is 2.75. Looked at tag bout a month ago. Eventually will put in a cam. And what about the timing could I change to get more low end power
2.75. I don't know how it would behave since you have the stock cam. But I set mine up to about 14 degrees base timing, limited to about 38 degrees with the mechanical advance all in, with the original light(er) spring replaced with a 925d. On the second page of the link I posted above, it tells you how big you need the slot to get x amount of timing. My original was a "21L" allowing too much advance at the upper rpm ranges.
I used to complain of the same power problem as you, when my distributor had the stock, very stiff and retarded advance springs in it. I installed the new ones from the kit I bought from Oreilly's (Mr. Gasket # 925D) Costs $3.99 but needs to be ordered most likely. Change those if you haven't. Clean every part in the distributor and lube everything accordingly. I recommend using the medium spring that's already in the distributor, and replace the heavy spring with a light spring from the kit for starters. This allows the timing advance to come in faster. What a difference it made on mine. It went from NO torque to LOTS of torque.
Originally Posted by Sw1tchfoot
2.75. I don't know how it would behave since you have the stock cam. But I set mine up to about 14 degrees base timing, limited to about 38 degrees with the mechanical advance all in, with the original light(er) spring replaced with a 925d. On the second page of the link I posted above, it tells you how big you need the slot to get x amount of timing. My original was a "21L" allowing too much advance at the upper rpm ranges.
Did these spring combos give any pinging problems towing? Still on regular gas?
My engine has never pinged with 87, even going with ~17 degrees of initial timing, but aftermarket cams tolerate more timing advance (unless you built something for high compression I suppose). Occasionally you will here about people having pinging problems with stock engines when they go messing the emissions stuff and timing.