Ficm ?
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 485
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From: Timmonsville
Ficm ?
If i understand all I have read it may be FICM time. Get the usual lower FMP right after start up,46ish quickly recovering to 47.5-48. How ever recently have been getting a few momentary dips in the 44-45 range while driving( engine hot).Also gettin the 44-45 reading at start up now pretty regular. Batteries new and load test well. Alt is OEM 110 amp and is functional. SG2 shows between 13.9_14.2 while running when FMP dips occur. Seems these dips occur when doing hills, acclerating.Not all the time. Matter of fact the dips are few a far between, just that they have started occuring and seem to be more frequent. FYI truck starts very quickly and runs great. Nothing other than OEM electrical on truck. Time for action,wait and see,or am I suffering from 6.0 TMI.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
It's on it's way out. Time for repair. It will continue to run as the voltage continues to sag but it's overheating the components on the circuit board making repairs more difficult. If you are comfortable with a soldering iron, there are instructions in the Tech folder. Dorman makes a power supply board that is available for cheap at the auto parts chain stores but you get what you pay for. Ford will sell you a complete new one but last time I heard it was around $900 including programming. Many FICMs here have been repaired by Ed at http://www.ficmrepair.com/ with great reviews.
Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; Jul 15, 2014 at 04:58 AM. Reason: Correct URL
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,825
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From: Manteca,Ca
110 amp Alt is not big enough , it barely keeps the Batts up to full charge, Do a load test on the alt with the scan gauge turn all power on full Ac on with fan head lites everything on then look at the volts it's putting out . X2 on Ed repair
so he will also ask about the Charging system if up to snuff the warrantee wont cover bad alt and batt for the Ficm will be Void
so he will also ask about the Charging system if up to snuff the warrantee wont cover bad alt and batt for the Ficm will be Void
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
110 amp Alt is not big enough , it barely keeps the Batts up to full charge, Do a load test on the alt with the scan gauge turn all power on full Ac on with fan head lites everything on then look at the volts it's putting out . X2 on Ed repair so he will also ask about the Charging system if up to snuff the warrantee wont cover bad alt and batt for the Ficm will be Void
so he will also ask about the Charging system if up to snuff the warrantee wont cover bad alt and batt for the Ficm will be Void
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,825
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
Granted the 110 is borderline, however if he's getting between 13.9 and 14.2 volts, that's not his problem. Esp. after it's totally warmed up meaning gp's are off. He's got an ficm that is starting to deteriorate. I'm still running the original ficm with stock alternator and have never lost one.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
altenator size
Stock alternator us 90 amp. I put a 110 amp on when my oem went bad. I researched it then and found no good reason to go higher than 110 amp unless you are driving a LOT of electrical components. Yet I still see parts that say 110 amps its not enough. If like someone to tell me why 110 amps is not enough. Please speak about current draw with radio and ac and lights after the glow plugs have cycled off. If I recall, those components added up draw around 40 to 50 amps. So, why is 110 amps insufficient?
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Stock alternator us 90 amp. I put a 110 amp on when my oem went bad. I researched it then and found no good reason to go higher than 110 amp unless you are driving a LOT of electrical components. Yet I still see parts that say 110 amps its not enough. If like someone to tell me why 110 amps is not enough. Please speak about current draw with radio and ac and lights after the glow plugs have cycled off. If I recall, those components added up draw around 40 to 50 amps. So, why is 110 amps insufficient?
110 amp rating is peak output, cold and high idle (2500 engine rpm) @ 14 volts.
At low idle, no accessories the computers, injectors and sensors drain nearly 60 amps. Add in subwoofer, stereo, amps, headlights, a/c, and more and the alternator is taxed and can no longer even get close to 14 volts to support all that amp draw. Hence why many will barely see 13 volts at idle with a stock alternator.
For example, a Ford Explorer will barely draw 25-30 amps low idle and the same 110 amp alternator (or 120 amp 4G) can easily maintain 14.4 volts.
Josh
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: SW Florida
Get the FICM fixed now, and save up for a 140 amp or higher alternator. Your alternator sounds fine for now....
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Stock alternator is 110. The 6G was only available in 2 models, 110 amp and 140 amp.
110 amp rating is peak output, cold and high idle (2500 engine rpm) @ 14 volts.
At low idle, no accessories the computers, injectors and sensors drain nearly 60 amps. Add in subwoofer, stereo, amps, headlights, a/c, and more and the alternator is taxed and can no longer even get close to 14 volts to support all that amp draw. Hence why many will barely see 13 volts at idle with a stock alternator.
For example, a Ford Explorer will barely draw 25-30 amps low idle and the same 110 amp alternator (or 120 amp 4G) can easily maintain 14.4 volts.
Josh
110 amp rating is peak output, cold and high idle (2500 engine rpm) @ 14 volts.
At low idle, no accessories the computers, injectors and sensors drain nearly 60 amps. Add in subwoofer, stereo, amps, headlights, a/c, and more and the alternator is taxed and can no longer even get close to 14 volts to support all that amp draw. Hence why many will barely see 13 volts at idle with a stock alternator.
For example, a Ford Explorer will barely draw 25-30 amps low idle and the same 110 amp alternator (or 120 amp 4G) can easily maintain 14.4 volts.
Josh
Of course I knew I would mainly be towing a camper and not doing a lot of idling and I'm not the subwoofer, rockin kind of guy.
Sorry for the hijack and back to your regularly scheduled program.
To the op, I've seen way to many positive comments about ed, I wouldn't think of getting my Ficm repaired by anyone else.
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Thanks Josh. I guess I'm off the opinion that an altenator should not be sized based on output at idle ... Unless it's a service vehicle. If so, you'll be pumping out tons of unneccessary amps while on the road. I didn't want to burn my fuel pumping 100 amps more than I need.
Of course I knew I would mainly be towing a camper and not doing a lot of idling and I'm not the subwoofer, rockin kind of guy.
Sorry for the hijack and back to your regularly scheduled program.
To the op, I've seen way to many positive comments about ed, I wouldn't think of getting my Ficm repaired by anyone else.
Of course I knew I would mainly be towing a camper and not doing a lot of idling and I'm not the subwoofer, rockin kind of guy.
Sorry for the hijack and back to your regularly scheduled program.
To the op, I've seen way to many positive comments about ed, I wouldn't think of getting my Ficm repaired by anyone else.
Josh
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,825
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
Thanks Josh for clearing that up, sunday nap time . also when the alt starts to go why risk the FICM and batterys on such small amps 140 seems to be the norm, Napa auto has the 140 amp alt that seem to put out the current needed. I'll have to dig around to find the cost and part numbers