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Oh well. I keep a close eye on the coolant level. Just for grins, its going to the dealer tomorrow to get the rearend leak fixed. What do you think they would charge to put in the new t-stat? I can do it, but the way its going with winter it may be another month before we get warm weather. Plus if I do it, I will completely change the coolant again.
Oh well. I keep a close eye on the coolant level. Just for grins, its going to the dealer tomorrow to get the rearend leak fixed. What do you think they would charge to put in the new t-stat? I can do it, but the way its going with winter it may be another month before we get warm weather. Plus if I do it, I will completely change the coolant again.
where are you located? Someone near you may have a shop or garage to lend a hand.
As for dealer cost, i would imagine at least 1 hour labor rate, plus coolant.
I'm in central Kansas. It can wait a few weeks til it gets warm enough. For the most part I don't get more than 2 miles from the house. We are expecting snow the next 2 days and more cold temps.
Dropped it off for the rearend leak this morning. They quoted me $245 to replace the t-stat. So, I will be waiting for warm weather to do it myself. By the way, that earlier post with the TSB says to check the ECT/EOT difference at 1800 rpm got me thinking. So on the way I set the cruise on 1800 rpm. Speedo reads about 57 mph, GPS says around 56 mph. So when I do another test, before and after the new t-stat, I'm running it at 1800 rpm to see what the effects are compared to the results I got yesterday at about 62 mph. I may have a smaller spread than originally thought at the correct rpm. I'll post my results eventually.
I noticed when I tow using the towhaul setting my EOT are around 224-228, and without the setting my EOT is around 210. So were you using the towhaul setting?
I noticed when I tow using the towhaul setting my EOT are around 224-228, and without the setting my EOT is around 210. So were you using the towhaul setting?
I normally do so I assume so, even though I don't remember now. It will be a while before I tow again so I could try that. Should it matter though since it should go to high gear either way? But, I will try it.
I was thinking those numbers for speed/rpm were off some and then saw the 4:10 sprockets in the sig. Might affect the temps a little also.
I'm thinking that a specific rpm would be more accurate across the board than a speed for every configuration of the truck. Weight has to play some role in it along with the gearing. I would think that a regular cab, short bed, 2wd with a high gear is working at about 75% of what my truck is at 65 mph. I think that's why I keep leaning toward the fact that if it hasn't increased in 2 or 3 years then it may not increase. I did get the rearend all fixed up yesterday. New ring and pinion seal and differential cover seal. After I used my customer dollars it only cost me $203. I didn't know that it held 6 qts of fluid at $24/qt.
I weigh in at 20500 with my 5ER and I have stock 373 gears. My towhaul setting causes high RPM's on the freeway. I find towhaul usefull for around town -stop/go traffic but on the freeway I dont use it. I would love to have 410 gears when I am towing.
I weigh just over 18k with my 5th wheel on and have noticed the same thing with tow haul and high RPM's. I run truck up to around 68-70 which makes it shift into high gear, then back down to 65 and it stays in high and runs around 1750-1850 rpms. This only works on flat ground though. I just have to bite the bullet in the hills and run it at 22-2300 rpms. My fan will not kick on as fast if I am not running in tow haul, then I fight heat issues all the time!