Quick AC Question: How to undo this?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Quick AC Question: How to undo this?
Working on my truck's AC outside before the light goes away. Pretty much have it all torn down, trying to remove the last of the hoses but ran into a snag.
Are either of the indicated points a Ford quick disconnect? It doesn't look like one I've seen before; I don't seem to be able to remove the hose as it seems to be stuck at this point and my manual is no help. How do I remove it? Thanks for any help.
Are either of the indicated points a Ford quick disconnect? It doesn't look like one I've seen before; I don't seem to be able to remove the hose as it seems to be stuck at this point and my manual is no help. How do I remove it? Thanks for any help.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Okay, thanks. I thought this system didn't have any, must have overlooked it. IIRC, Ford calls for the plastic tab (which seems to be missing on mine) to be replaced after disconnecting a quick connect. Are these carried at the usual parts chain suspects as well?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 79
From: Mooresville, NC
Working on my truck's AC outside before the light goes away. Pretty much have it all torn down, trying to remove the last of the hoses but ran into a snag.
Are either of the indicated points a Ford quick disconnect? It doesn't look like one I've seen before; I don't seem to be able to remove the hose as it seems to be stuck at this point and my manual is no help. How do I remove it? Thanks for any help.
Are either of the indicated points a Ford quick disconnect? It doesn't look like one I've seen before; I don't seem to be able to remove the hose as it seems to be stuck at this point and my manual is no help. How do I remove it? Thanks for any help.
When you get the tool you're going to first "clamp" it over the coupling, then push the tool towards the Cage Opening (containing the Garter Spring), you'll then pull the male and female apart...........
It's always a good idea to replace the o-rings on the coupling along with the Garter Spring...........
BTW --- the disconnect tools at AutoMoan, etc are junk...........
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
I am not unfamiliar with quick connects, just this one looks different than any I've seen before. I do have new O-rings to put in, but where do I get the retaining clip and garter spring?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
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Tip: Be absolutely certain the new O-rings are of the correct material for this application. Plain old black (usually) O-rings are made of a material called Buna-N, or Nitrile Rubber. A/C systems use a polyol-glycol lubricating oil, one name brand is Emkarate, and the stuff will EAT Buna-N O-rings.
Similar advice for O-rings used in fuel lines. Gasoline eats Buna-N, too. Plus, gas often now has Ethanol added, bad for plain old O-rings.
One more tip: The tools for releasing those pesky quick-connects are of varying materials: some are plastic, which often is so soft, it fails to expand the captive garter spring adequately, making separation of the parts a devilish feat. The best I've seen are made of metal. impish
Similar advice for O-rings used in fuel lines. Gasoline eats Buna-N, too. Plus, gas often now has Ethanol added, bad for plain old O-rings.
One more tip: The tools for releasing those pesky quick-connects are of varying materials: some are plastic, which often is so soft, it fails to expand the captive garter spring adequately, making separation of the parts a devilish feat. The best I've seen are made of metal. impish
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 6
From: Dallas, TX, USA
I already have them apart, the plastic tools I kept around worked one more time. As for the O-rings, been there, done that, walked out when my friend's VW ground to a halt because a mis-specced O-ring failed and allowed ATF and coolant to mix whilst out in West Texas, in the summer on one of the hottest days of the year. :P
I usually use uprated O-rings where ever possible as I find OEMs usually cheap out on them. I certainly wouldn't use the black ones in an R-134A system. They were 'okay' when we used oils like ester and refrigerants like R-12, but not so much any more. Green rings all the way now.
Managed to get a replacement spring at the local specialty shop that rebuilt my hose assembly so that question is answered too.
I usually use uprated O-rings where ever possible as I find OEMs usually cheap out on them. I certainly wouldn't use the black ones in an R-134A system. They were 'okay' when we used oils like ester and refrigerants like R-12, but not so much any more. Green rings all the way now.
Managed to get a replacement spring at the local specialty shop that rebuilt my hose assembly so that question is answered too.
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