not charging
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not charging
I have a 2001 ford excursion with the v10 .
yesterday it just died from no power from the charging system. I cleaned all
my connection from the battery to the ground straps and my question is in the back of the alternator where the large wire connections with that dissconnected
should i not see current coming out of the bolt on the alternator . I connected a test light to the body and the test side to the large electrical bolt on the back of the alternator and It would not light ? is the voltage regulator inside the alternator . I also found and a repair a worn fuse link that connected at the starter solaniod and i did make sure the wire from the back of the altenator to the starter solonid has continunity. Any ideas would be a help
yesterday it just died from no power from the charging system. I cleaned all
my connection from the battery to the ground straps and my question is in the back of the alternator where the large wire connections with that dissconnected
should i not see current coming out of the bolt on the alternator . I connected a test light to the body and the test side to the large electrical bolt on the back of the alternator and It would not light ? is the voltage regulator inside the alternator . I also found and a repair a worn fuse link that connected at the starter solaniod and i did make sure the wire from the back of the altenator to the starter solonid has continunity. Any ideas would be a help
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From: Houston
This is not the first post like this. Cant stress enough to make sure all connections are tight with no corrosion. And make sure ground is tight. Last guy I told this still took it in a ford dealer paid $$ for a loose wire!!
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i took apart and cleaned both battery cables, the ground strap on the engine and i did find a very corroded line from the alternator to the start solonid where the possitive line from the battery connects and I cleaned and replaced it. Should the a power reading at the back of the alternator when the engine is running? does any one know is the voltage regulator inside the alternator and finialy does the ecu control the alternator output?
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From: Houston
You should get reading of at least 13. 12.9 is the bare of the bare minimum for it to a be a ok alternator. Thats if everything is running with a heavy load like the heater headlights fog lights radio. Etc...
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there is a 3 wire molex plug that goes into the alternator and i see another by it self i think that is for the dash gauge so im just wondering if the alternator requires a singnal to tell the alternator to produce current. As it sits right now with the engine running there is zero voltage coming out of the main wire out put connection
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From: Houston
Yes the little wire by its self is the light in the dash aka the battery light. Quick test take it to O'Reillys they will test it. But there is no way to test the regulator on the inside. The regulator is what tells the alternator it needs more power. Usually thats what goes bad in alternators.
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From: Houston
I have heard alternators pass the test but they still are not any good. Triple check the connections no cuts in the wires no corrosion I know you probably check 100 times but check again. Is the battery any good? Old / New?.... Buy a new alt and see if it works if not return it. Then if that doesn't work there is a connection issue somewhere.
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Thanks for the input. At this point from what i can have been reading there is a signal that comes from the cluster that goes to one of the 3 pin connector that activates the alternator. This is getting beyond my skills so I may be stuck just taking it to ford and I will pay out the rear for this hahah. Like I said thanks a lot !!!!! Oh and yes I am sure the battery is good and yes its a new gel battery
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From: Houston
Thanks for the input. At this point from what i can have been reading there is a signal that comes from the cluster that goes to one of the 3 pin connector that activates the alternator. This is getting beyond my skills so I may be stuck just taking it to ford and I will pay out the rear for this hahah. Like I said thanks a lot !!!!! Oh and yes I am sure the battery is good and yes its a new gel battery
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Been thinking more about this trying to avoid the dealer im wondering if this mythical signal that tells the alternatior to start making power is just like any realy. Im trying to understand what all these wires do . I do HVAC service for a living and I am used to control issues . From what i see the larger connection on the back that feeds the battery and what i need to know is out of the 3 wire plug in guessing on must be a ground for one must turn on the alternator meaning 12 volts that comes from the key? or ecu ? something to tell the alternator to go to work and im guessing the other feeds the indacator light on the dash i have also read if this light on the dash goes bad this can also feed the mythacal activation wire .
Any thought on how to get a diagram or sequence of opperation to figure this out.
thanks\\
Sean
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Houston
Been thinking more about this trying to avoid the dealer im wondering if this mythical signal that tells the alternatior to start making power is just like any realy. Im trying to understand what all these wires do . I do HVAC service for a living and I am used to control issues . From what i see the larger connection on the back that feeds the battery and what i need to know is out of the 3 wire plug in guessing on must be a ground for one must turn on the alternator meaning 12 volts that comes from the key? or ecu ? something to tell the alternator to go to work and im guessing the other feeds the indacator light on the dash i have also read if this light on the dash goes bad this can also feed the mythacal activation wire .
Any thought on how to get a diagram or sequence of opperation to figure this out.
thanks\\
Sean
Any thought on how to get a diagram or sequence of opperation to figure this out.
thanks\\
Sean