When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
88 bronco 302. Has code 33 and 46. I tested the egr for vacume and there is none. I took the line off right from the source where there is a electrical plug in. The other vacume line right below it has air coming out of it but the green one for the egr valve has nothing. Is it the black piece they go to bad or do i gotta go further down the line somewhere. And i think 46 is something to do with fuel hoping it just needs an o2 sensor on the y pipe or something. Right now the truck when you start it has very high idle at like 1500 or so and if you just gas it a little and let off it will go down to about 600-800 and sometimes its smooth other times it shakes pretty good. And if you really step on it it kinda falls flat on its face and then when it catches up with itself its like ***** out power. Ive never had a 302 or done anything with egr so im clue less. The only testing power tools i have is a test light.
There should be no vacuum applied to the EGR valve under idle or heavy/wide-open throttle. It is only applied during light throttle/cruising conditions. So if you tested it for vacuum at idle there should not be any at the EGR valve.
Code 46: Thermactor air not bypassed during self test.
Is the Thermactor system still hooked up. Also known as the AIR system/smog pump.
Yes smog pump is still hooked up. And not sure what codes those are i have a ford only code reader i use and thats just what came up. So how do i fix the egr. It gets power to it i tested it with a test light at the plug in.
[QUOTE="rla2005;14491069"]Code 33 is a KOER or CM code. Code 46 is typically KOER only so I assume you got those codes with the Key On Engine Running? It is advised to run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Continuous Memory (CM) display before running the KOER tests. You need a meter to measure the EVP sensor output. A test light is not going to cut it.[/QUOTE
I did it with the truck up to temp and with the engine off and key on. Ok can you explain how i test those. I have never used a meter ever. And what parts would those be.
So those codes must be from historical (CM). Ford plays musical definitions with the codes depending on the model and model year. If they are historical then I suggest you clear the codes, then drive the truck for a day or two to see which ones return. You can do this by removing the connector to the code reader while the codes are being displayed. I do not suggest you remove a battery cable to clear the codes.
EVP is the EGR Valve Position sensor on top of the EGR valve. For reference: EVP Sensor
So now it's on to testing the EVP output. Get a meter, aka DVM, then measure the output with the engine off, key on. Start the truck up, verify the output is approximately the same. If it is, then apply vacuum to the EGR valve. This can be done with a hand held vacuum pump or use vacuum from an open port on the vacuum tree on the manifold. The output signal should increase dramatically. Reference the values in the link I sent earlier.
If the output does not change then verify the EGR vale moves with vacuum applied. If not, it's bad and/or stuck. If it does move then you probably have a bad EVP sensor.
If the output does change then you may have a disconnected or broken vacuum line running from the manifold or from the EVR (EGR Valve Regulator) to the EGR. Or the EVR may be bad. Or the wiring from the EVP to the computer (PCM) has an open. It's a process of methodical elimination.
Ok thankyou that helps a lot more now im understanding this. Just to get this out quick by chance do you know if an egr valve off a 87 f150 4.9 is the same. I know they bolt up. But anyways i have a brand new valve but the motor died shortly after. And i switched the top piece off the new one onto the bronco. Alright back to the topic when i meter test this am i testing the electric plug in from the harness or do i test sensor to the egr. My friend knows his electrical stuff so he will know what to do if i explain how its gotta be done. Thanks again
Alright replaced my valve with the newer one i had. Ran it got it warm code 33 and 41 are gone. But now i got code 34 and i cant find anything on that one