I cleaned up the outside a bit and found the #'s e5he 9510 dd. list 50259-3 1047.

 

What u think about this number dummy ? Also look at my previous valve cover pic. Bottom left corner says 1978. Did they start the 460 then? Need to make sure the Holley 4180 is equilivant to my carb before I spend the money on a rebuild kit.

 

First you didn't bother to answer any of the questions I asked you and now you question my I.D. of the carb .. What gives ? If you would have done some research on the kit one of the first places you would have found is this .. Scroll to the bottom of the PDF and you will find your carb ID ..The carb is actually a 4180C .. I'm running a modded version of this carb on both my 460 and 390 motors .. The carb in it's stock state needs some work but it can be made into an awesome carburetor with some bolt on modifications to overcome the emissions design .. If your interested I can lay those out for you .. That is definitely the holley factory kit for your carb with the parts upgrades needed to burn 10% ethanol fuel .. I would not have pointed you to it if it wasn't right .. I have used that same kit to rebuild 3 of these 4180C carbs all were E5HE's which is the desired core when building one for a 460 ..

 

I was merely asking for a second opinion. $50 dollars is not chump change for me to spend on something that may not work. To answer some questions, my state does not do emissions and I haven't found any canisters. I do need this truck to be reliable. How much $ will all the carb mods cost? Can I do them in stages?

 

Then cap off the two 3/8 vent tubes that angle down off the top of the bowls .. one in front other at back ..
Do you have the skill set to rebuild the carb?

If not then buy a new carb or have someone else rebuild the 4180C .. An edlebrock 1406 with the kickdown kit for auto trans if you have auto trans ..

Is the egr valve hooked up ?

If not you need to make a decision to hook it up right, clean out the egr plate, test to see if the valve is working, and replace the gasket between the intake manifold and the egr plate .. The gasket that goes between the carb and egr plate is included in the kit .. Otherwise delete the egr valve by blocking it off from the plate ..

Some of the mods are already in the kit .. In addition to the kit about $120.00 but all of these are not requirements to have it run reliably ..

Yes

These statements are going to butt heads with each other every time ..

First it looks like you have an emissions motor from the 80's transplanted into a 70's truck .. It is going to take some investigating on your part to determine how much of the emissions stuff that is still on the motor is still connected .. All of this is going to influence how the motor runs .. You'll need to provide more pics of the motor .. Does it still have a smog pump connected and is the crossover tube between the back of the heads still connected ? you will find a lot more info here and here on how people have have deleted emissions on the 460 ..

If your going to keep the carb the kit is the way to go if you have the skill set to rebuild it ..

One thing that would be helpful to further ID what you have is when you pull the carb take a picture of the intake where the carb mounted ..

 

mechanically speaking I can do anything as long as I have some instructions. I called or I'll ease and they have a rebuild kit for a 4 180 C. they wanted to know if its a double pumper or some sort of the vacuum carb?

 

 

There is nothing hard about this .. You need a
Holley 3-1346 Renew Kit

Don't buy any other substitute

 

 

 

Interesting picture .. If the motor matched the carb it would be painted grey .. You may have gotten lucky .. Nice saginaw power steering pump BTW that's a transplant or this is a van motor .. This is a good indication whoever put this motor in may have known what they were doing .. The motor may have come out of a van (econoline) .. With the dipstick in the front this must be a front sump oil pan ? So came out of 2wd something .. Looking more like a Van motor .. What are the casting numbers on the heads ?

It doesn't look like the electric choke is even hooked up ?

 

The egr valve is hooked up. I pulled it off while running and the line did have suction.

 

No wires going to the choke. I thought it was a mechanical choke, as the motor heats up the butterflies open.

 

I'll look for castin # when I get back home, where would they be located?

 

That doesn't prove the egr valve is functioning as it should ..