Clevor
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Bloomfield, Iowa
We ran them in a dirt late model 25 years ago. We had a 360" package and used 4bbl closed chamber heads, custom Wiseco pistons for 13.5:1 compression, severe duty stainless valves (titanium wasn't legal or they would have been used), titanium retainers and triple springs with some pretty radical cams. We adapted a 351C intake or a Roush raised port intake. We turned them 8200RPM and our engines were dry sump. We were taking advantage of a rules package at the time. We ran a 980cfm carb on it and it actually wanted more according to the dyno numbers.
With all the good heads out there for a Windsor engine, I wouldn't waste the time or money to build a Clevor anymore.
They work pretty good at higher RPM's but are dogs on the bottom end. Not street friendly. Realistically, how much time do you plan to spend turning more than 5000 RPM. I think you need a really good cam and bottom end to take advantage of what they offer.
They look cool but I don't think they are worth it. Buy some nice aluminum heads and spend your extra money on a stroker kit for the 351W.
SPark
With all the good heads out there for a Windsor engine, I wouldn't waste the time or money to build a Clevor anymore.
They work pretty good at higher RPM's but are dogs on the bottom end. Not street friendly. Realistically, how much time do you plan to spend turning more than 5000 RPM. I think you need a really good cam and bottom end to take advantage of what they offer.
They look cool but I don't think they are worth it. Buy some nice aluminum heads and spend your extra money on a stroker kit for the 351W.
SPark
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Thanks for the reply, that's the word Im getting almost anywhere I look. No low end power all top end.
Still not 100% on what way I want to go, this is just 1 option of many.
Lucky for me, Nowadays Edelbrock has intake mani's that will bolt up directly so there isn't all that plugging and drilling stock heads and what not. Its a much easier build than it used to be, but the higher RPM/power band may just turn me off of building one (at least for this project) altogether.
Still not 100% on what way I want to go, this is just 1 option of many.
Lucky for me, Nowadays Edelbrock has intake mani's that will bolt up directly so there isn't all that plugging and drilling stock heads and what not. Its a much easier build than it used to be, but the higher RPM/power band may just turn me off of building one (at least for this project) altogether.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 281
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From: Bloomfield, Iowa
You still need to plug a hole on the deck surface of the head and drill holes on the intake face of the head. Water circulates different between a Cleveland (thermostat in the block) and Windsor (thermostat in the intake). All the Edelbrock intake does is let you bolt the intake on without spacers or valley adaptors. Don't confuse the "correct" intake with the lack of need for head modifications.
SPark
SPark
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 346
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From: Salinas
the way i see it you can make more power for less money windsor based, but.......
you can dress a clevor up to look like a factory boss 302, and if that fits your build it might be worth it to you. i personally love a period build with a slightly newer engine that looks like it could have come out of a new car back in the day. they did that just like everybody wants the newer (5.4, 4.6, coyote, ls3) engines in their rides today.
you can dress a clevor up to look like a factory boss 302, and if that fits your build it might be worth it to you. i personally love a period build with a slightly newer engine that looks like it could have come out of a new car back in the day. they did that just like everybody wants the newer (5.4, 4.6, coyote, ls3) engines in their rides today.
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Not trying to split hairs here, but Aluminum Cylinder Heads - Ford - Clevor - Performer RPM - Edelbrock, LLC.
You can buy the entire package from edelbrock Heads, intake, and have no welding or drilling to build a Clevor. The gaskets are special and come from Ford I believe.
I was mainly looking for any setbacks with anyone running one or do's and dont's. My heart isn't set on building a Clevor BUT I do have most of the stuff laying around to do it (the old fashion way).
Just yesterday afternoon I acquired a "free" CV police interceptor (complete car minus doors and roof) so I WILL be using the front suspension and POSSIBLY using the engine/tranny combo.
Still in the planning stages of my build.
You can buy the entire package from edelbrock Heads, intake, and have no welding or drilling to build a Clevor. The gaskets are special and come from Ford I believe.
I was mainly looking for any setbacks with anyone running one or do's and dont's. My heart isn't set on building a Clevor BUT I do have most of the stuff laying around to do it (the old fashion way).
Just yesterday afternoon I acquired a "free" CV police interceptor (complete car minus doors and roof) so I WILL be using the front suspension and POSSIBLY using the engine/tranny combo.
Still in the planning stages of my build.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 281
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From: Bloomfield, Iowa
If you use the Edelbrock heads it's a lot easier. Earlier you only referenced the intake so I assumed you were using iron heads.
They look good. I have a Cleveland for my Maverick. It has closed chamber 4bbl heads. It is going to be turning some RPM's so it should do fine. The top loader behind it will help, too.
SPark
They look good. I have a Cleveland for my Maverick. It has closed chamber 4bbl heads. It is going to be turning some RPM's so it should do fine. The top loader behind it will help, too.
SPark
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You are correct sir, I did only say intake. I do have some Cleveland heads, but the bolt up edelbrock sure is tempting.
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From: Milan, Indiana
I know this is a older thread but I am doing a clevor myself. I started out with cast iron heads and not a big deal to drill the holes on the block side hole and make the new crossover hole. I did switch to a trick flow power port 190 cleveland head. The trick flows are already drilled and tapped to plug the block hole and you just have to drill the coolant hole on the intake side for the crossover of the coolant. This is just another option. They offer 2 chamber sizes of 64cc and 72cc. I run the 72cc heads with a 11cc dish and have 10.25 to one compression. My combo might be different but i run a 4inch stroke crank and 6.250 rods with .060 pistons and comes up to be 414 cu in.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 468
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From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Cda
I know this is now an older thread of almost two years.
I accumulated all the parts about 25 years ago for an old school Clevor build: Mexican 302 block, NOS Cleveland 2V heads, B&A Street Boss intake, 289 rods, NOS 302 crank, NOS TRW L2324 4.030" pistons, BOSS 302 head gaskets (Felpro), push rod guide plates, and more. I did consider aussie 2V heads until Edelbrock brought out their Clevor top end package so I am now in a holding pattern.
This engine is destined for my 1963 F100 unibody once I decide how to proceed.
Good luck with your project which ever way you go.
I accumulated all the parts about 25 years ago for an old school Clevor build: Mexican 302 block, NOS Cleveland 2V heads, B&A Street Boss intake, 289 rods, NOS 302 crank, NOS TRW L2324 4.030" pistons, BOSS 302 head gaskets (Felpro), push rod guide plates, and more. I did consider aussie 2V heads until Edelbrock brought out their Clevor top end package so I am now in a holding pattern.
This engine is destined for my 1963 F100 unibody once I decide how to proceed.
Good luck with your project which ever way you go.
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Tri Cities, TN
Clevor
I know this is now an older thread of almost two years.
I accumulated all the parts about 25 years ago for an old school Clevor build: Mexican 302 block, NOS Cleveland 2V heads, B&A Street Boss intake, 289 rods, NOS 302 crank, NOS TRW L2324 4.030" pistons, BOSS 302 head gaskets (Felpro), push rod guide plates, and more. I did consider aussie 2V heads until Edelbrock brought out their Clevor top end package so I am now in a holding pattern.
This engine is destined for my 1963 F100 unibody once I decide how to proceed.
Good luck with your project which ever way you go.
I accumulated all the parts about 25 years ago for an old school Clevor build: Mexican 302 block, NOS Cleveland 2V heads, B&A Street Boss intake, 289 rods, NOS 302 crank, NOS TRW L2324 4.030" pistons, BOSS 302 head gaskets (Felpro), push rod guide plates, and more. I did consider aussie 2V heads until Edelbrock brought out their Clevor top end package so I am now in a holding pattern.
This engine is destined for my 1963 F100 unibody once I decide how to proceed.
Good luck with your project which ever way you go.
If you have enough of those old parts to build one, I say go for it. I'm putting a 1971 4V Cleveland in my 65. I like seeing these old vehicles, trucks or cars with period parts in them. As far as low end torque. I bet it will have more than a 223 ever though about having. And as long as you aren't towing a trailer who cares.
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