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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Water Pump challenge

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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 11:44 AM
  #1  
For-dragon's Avatar
For-dragon
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Water Pump challenge

Help from the site has allowed me to determine with some certainty that my coolant leak is from the weep hole in my water pump ('66 lwb cc with 351w from 1980 F150).

Assuming this means the gasket is failing, how much damage/risk is there driving it, as long as I refill the coolant before driving again?

I really need to drive the truck to make a delivery (light load, under 50 miles) in a week and don't have the time/total knowledge to change the water pump before then.

Yes, the obvious choice is fixing it, but...

P.S. The leak/drip is slow at idle and with the engine off.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 12:09 PM
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BigDfromTN
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As long as there is coolant there it will not harm the engine.

Personally if you need to drive it before fixing it. I would back the radiator cap off to where it will not build pressure at temp. That should help slow the leak by relieving pressure.

IF you are driving it and temp climbs too high, STOP and let it cool.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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I don't have a 351W water pump, but here's some shots of an FE style and 240/300 I6 style water pumps. I've added yellow arrows pointing to the weep hole on each one. In line with and directly below the pump shaft.

Name:  weep_hole.jpg
Views: 874
Size:  76.3 KB


General steps would be.

1. Disconnect battery (just to be safe)
2. Drain radiator
3. Disconnect radiator hoses and heater hoses and pull radiator (this is often quickest and sometimes required for step #5)
4. Loosen accessories that share any fan belt that shares the water pump pulley.
5. Loosen and remove fan bolts, fan, spacer and pulley
6. Loosen and remove water pump bolts
7. Tap water pump housing gently to break loose where it mounts to the engine block. I like a dead blow hammer for this.
8. Scrape off old gasket and prep engine block for new water pump.

Install is reverse of removal.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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Thanks

I appreciate the help guys. I feel pretty confident I can do the swap, but I'd be rushed to do it before the drive.

The plan will be to fill her and make the first leg, checking levels once it cools down. I'll refill and bring her home following the job and then make the swap in a few days when I have time to not rush it.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 08:45 PM
  #5  
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From: Hemet ca.
Originally Posted by TA455HO
I don't have a 351W water pump, but here's some shots of an FE style and 240/300 I6 style water pumps. I've added yellow arrows pointing to the weep hole on each one. In line with and directly below the pump shaft.

Attachment 101518


General steps would be.

1. Disconnect battery (just to be safe)
2. Drain radiator
3. Disconnect radiator hoses and heater hoses and pull radiator (this is often quickest and sometimes required for step #5)
4. Loosen accessories that share any fan belt that shares the water pump pulley.
5. Loosen and remove fan bolts, fan, spacer and pulley
6. Loosen and remove water pump bolts
7. Tap water pump housing gently to break loose where it mounts to the engine block. I like a dead blow hammer for this.
8. Scrape off old gasket and prep engine block for new water pump.

Install is reverse of removal.
Adding to this list. Make a drawing / outline of water pump on a clean piece of cardboard. Make sure you identify all the bolt holes. When removing bolts place in the respected spot on the cardboard. do this until all bolts are where they came from and now on the drawing.
Some bolts may be longer than others. You want to make sure you get the bolts in the right spot when re-assembling.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2014 | 10:09 PM
  #6  
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From: Eastern Oregon
ensure you use distilled water and Antifreeze. If you use tap water is will eventually turn to scale on the inside of the engine block.
 
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