I just picked up a 02 v10 lariat for a great deal knowing it had some issues. Bought from original owner so I knew all 10 plugs were original with 105k miles on them.

Soo first up was swapping out the plugs which were well past their duty cycle. I chose to use motorcraft single plats gapped to .054" and installed all of them dry and torqued to about 16.5 ft lbs, I find this odd but I feel it was actually easier changing the plugs on the v10 than 5.4's, passenger rear was tough getting the torque wrench back there but the only thing I moved out of the way was the pcv, all boots were in great shape and the truck runs much better now.

heres a couple plugs cause I know we all love pictures




next up was pulling the rear hubs and installing new backing plates, parking brake shoes+hardware and wheel seals on both sides, no pictures of that unfortunately, I'm also curious how the wheel seal works, I've installed quite a few on these trucks but don't really understand how it can seal, its pressed into the hub and also pressed onto the spindle so how is the hub able to spin when both sides of the seal are pressed on two different parts? is it actually two pieces?

can you guess whats next?



Thats right manifold studs, what mod engine would be complete without broken ones?

I did the driver side in 4 hours, started with 2 broken and ended up with 5 broken once the log was off, 4 broken atleast 3/16" in the head and one stud sticking out. All I did was remove the fenderwell and unhooked the battery and started welding them out, the hardest part of this whole job is actually getting the manifold out. It is very hard to get to the nuts/studs UNDER the log especially if you are in the rust belt like me you will be using both sae and metric sockets because every nut size will be different, I did not bother giving anything a pb blaster bath I just started tearing everything apart, it's very easy to weld them out, I just used a miller 140 amp plugged into the household 110v outlet, I did not use gmaw for this I used fcaw and I feel that is the key because the studs are dirty and you also get better penetration with it, and since it's only 110v you need everything you can get lol, the hardest one to get out was actually the one that broke above the surface, I went and bought some 8-1.25 nuts before hand and ended up using them to weld these studs out.



put a straight edge to the log and looks good to me so will be going back on as is

Now I am just waiting on fastenal to get my m8-1.25x35mm grade 8 bolts in stock then I can put the log back on, I'm going to be using just the hex head flange type but I'm curious if I should use a locknut or flat washer aswell?

view of the work space




here you can see where the exhaust leak was worst



found this thing fall out of the fender liner when I pulled it out, which was a pita by the way haha




heres the truck




looking forward to a "tick" free exhaust, the passenger side needs R&R aswell but there is only 1 broken at this time and it doesnt appear to be leaking YET, so I'm planning on letting it go through the winter which should be fine especially since my trucks sit mostly in the summer because I ride my R6 everywhere

 

Also, a local hardware store has stainless steel bolts in stock that are m8-1.25 but the closest length they have to 35mm is 30mm or 40mm, could I use the 30mm or 40mm instead of 35mm? anyone know?

 

Looks like a good project. As far as the flange head bolt you don't need a washer being it has a flange which acts as the same thing. You can use either, if the originals were 35mm go with the 40 and use extra washers to take up the gap.

 

Is there a significant power loss with a leaking manifold? I have noticed mine ticks a bit when cold and then less, or not noticeable, when it warms up. I don't have the welder or the know how to do what you did so this is one thing I would have to pay to get done.

Mine is an 07 V-10. if that matters.

 

New hardware and log installed






I didnt feel like waiting until monday for fastenal, So I ran to a few different hardware stores and grabbed 10 flange hex head m8-1.25x40mm bolts and just used a lock washer on them as a shim, worked out good plus they were class 10.9 which is pretty much equivalent to a grade 8 in sae so hopefully these last a while.

also I used fel-pro header gasket, its a two piece that divides the ports for the dipstick tube I'm assuming.

one thing I found odd was all the upper manifold bolts threaded in easily but all the ones under the log had to be ratcheted all the way in.

Yes I had power loss, not significant but definitely enough to notice, I just ran around the block with it and there is definitely a difference in power now, and no annoying exhaust noise lol

Sounds like you have a manifold issue aswell, best thing to do is crawl under there and look.

You may want to try and fix it yourself, most repair quotes I've seen are extremely expensive (atleast in my opinion)

 

I'm curious has anyone replaced their manifold studs with grade 10.9 bolts and had them snap again?