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Old Jul 13, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #31  
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Cab Seam

Originally Posted by RusT
Hi, great work your doing there, can't wait for the next instalment!

I have a complete newbie question.. I just wondered why you cut in a new panel for the roof seam instead of just filling in like you done on the front panel/wings seam?

Russ
"There are no dumb questions just dumb answers" I originally thought the same just weld the cab seam together. The cab is actually 2 stampings. you can see the top seam in the back of the roof line and all the way into the hood hinge area. To answer your question if you really look closely from the side at the rear seam its offset by as much as 1/4"- 3/8". So even welding it it would still be uneven and mismatched. Requiring quite a bit of bondo work. Our cabs also flex, since they're mounted on wooden blocks. Over time that plastic filler would crack and ruin a good paint job. Hope that answers your question.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2014 | 06:08 PM
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Driving Lights

This has been an are of much thought and debate for me. The front end of the truck I want unaltered but improved. It looks so good with the shape of the fenders and contrast of the Head Lights and Parking Lights. I actually love the 2 lights sitting next to each other. I want to order 3" diameter lights and have them customized to flash as turn signals.




Driving Lights to match the Headlights

LED Rings to flash as turn indicators. Really TRICK!!!
 
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Old Jul 13, 2014 | 07:45 PM
  #33  
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since your willing to answer (dumb) question. i gotta ask. when you weld seems like that ,do you cool them off. or can you weld them(what looks like 1 1/2 inch pass) continuously by moving from left too right. on the roof probably the curb helps for the warping! but even so i have a hard time welding and not warping. maybe i,m trying too go too fast, i,ve here of cooling with air. i will be working on my doors next winter ,any help would be appreciated. heres a picture of my cab corners.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 01:39 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by HellRaiser46
"There are no dumb questions just dumb answers" I originally thought the same just weld the cab seam together. The cab is actually 2 stampings. you can see the top seam in the back of the roof line and all the way into the hood hinge area. To answer your question if you really look closely from the side at the rear seam its offset by as much as 1/4"- 3/8". So even welding it it would still be uneven and mismatched. Requiring quite a bit of bondo work. Our cabs also flex, since they're mounted on wooden blocks. Over time that plastic filler would crack and ruin a good paint job. Hope that answers your question.
There you go , that's the difference between someone who knows what they are doing and me
Thanks for the explanation, makes a lot sense.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 02:30 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by bernette
since your willing to answer (dumb) question. i gotta ask. when you weld seems like that ,do you cool them off. or can you weld them(what looks like 1 1/2 inch pass) continuously by moving from left too right. on the roof probably the curb helps for the warping! but even so i have a hard time welding and not warping. maybe i,m trying too go too fast, i,ve here of cooling with air. i will be working on my doors next winter ,any help would be appreciated. heres a picture of my cab corners.

If you spot weld about 12" apart and then take a break while they cool. Get an iced tea or beer. Then come back an 20-30 minutes later and space the spot welds 6" apart. The idea is to alternate your spot welds like torquing up up your tires lug nuts or the bolt order of an intake manifold or main caps on an engine block. Alternating. When you're finished you should have hundreds of tiny spot welds tightly together. The sheet metal is thin and it will warp just burning a full bead. I've read about wet rags and compressed air but, I'd let it cool naturally not force it.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 05:14 AM
  #36  
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I just love your build! I love the fact that you didn't "chop the top"!!!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 05:26 AM
  #37  
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thanks ! i,m probably going to fast.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 06:53 PM
  #38  
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Grille

We spruced up the original Grille with round bar. 3/4",5/8", 1/2"

 
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 06:56 PM
  #39  
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Reverse Tilt Hood

To my knowledge this is the very first 42-47 with a reverse tilt hood!!!









 
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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #40  
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all i will say is wow! nice work.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 01:14 PM
  #41  
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Wow awesome work.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 07:11 AM
  #42  
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Update

So we are finishing up the rest of the build. My friends at Tin Element Loveland Colorado. Neal and Shawn have been killing it.


Stainless Tailgate Latches




Pros Pick Bed Roll Lites!





I shipped the PIAA Driving Lights off to Oracle. They retrofitted them with HALOS to act as turn indicators! We frenched them in to match the headlights. No more butter cream headlight bezels lol


Finally after a 3 month build time the rear tires finally came in from Colorado Customs. I went bigger with 19s for the rear to fill the wheel wells.


Suicide Doors and Revers Tilt Hood


I have contacted Mike Lavallee from Killer Paint in Washington. For those of you who don't know who he is. He's the creator of True Fire air brush technique and has been all over the Discovery Channel. Were going to trailer it to his shop very soon for Winter and Spring!!!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2015 | 04:51 PM
  #43  
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Update!!!

So after 1.5 years in Metal Fab at Tin Element in Loveland, CO. It's finally time for paint!!!











 
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 07:11 AM
  #44  
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your truck is beautiful!!! can,t wait to see the paint, its almost perfect as it is now.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 12:05 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by bernette
your truck is beautiful!!! can,t wait to see the paint, its almost perfect as it is now.

lolol I considered clearcoating the bare steel. It looks just as good as it did rolling off the factory assembly line. Thanks!
 
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