ive got a 91 f250 with a 7.3L. ive been having problems starting it lately. i turn the key to run, let the wait light go out, turn the key to start it and i get nothing. If i put the key in run i can jump the solenoid and it starts just fine. i replaced the ignition switch on the steering column and the tumbler and it was fine for about 3 days but then i got the same thing, turn key no start. i dont know whats going on. ive checked all the wiring, i can pull the plug on the ignition switch and jump start it that way as well. im not sure what else to do, im about to just buy a whole new steering column just out of frustration. the column in it now is from a junk yard but ive had no problems with it until recently. please help!!

 

The actuating rod or tumbler may be worn where they meet.

Sent from my C771 using IB AutoGroup

 

Yea i guess im just gonna buy a whole new steering column im tired of dickin around with this thing lol

 

Before you do that... reach up under the steering column and find the plastic box located up there. There's a small rod going down from the key, on top of the steering column, to that. The box is held in place with two screws, and if those screws become loose, it won't start. You may have to simply loosen the two screws and push the box upwards a little, tighten them back down.

 

Been there done that, the ignition switch itself has been replaced twice. It was installed according to the directions, worked for a couple days and then just stopped. I adjusted it every way possible and got nothing.

 

OK, do what I did. Get yourself a push-button and hook it up -- You just need a NO pushbutton, one wire to power and one to the relay on the passenger's side fender. Simple to hook up.

Alternately, have you taken off the steering wheel and looked inside? The lever is actuated by a cast aluminum piece which slides up and down in a square hole. The bottom piece of this part(which also is what locks the key in the ignition unless you press that little lever under the column) breaks off occasionally, meaning that it doesn't stay straight and won't engage the starter contacts.

 

That's the way my van is set up. I need to figure out where the problem is and set it right.

 

I had actually thought about doing that at one point the first time i had problems with my column but just ended up getting a junkyard column which lasted almost year lol. Its not a bad idea everything else works fine just wont start. So do you happen to have more info on hooking this push button up? Better wiring instructions, button type, that such thing. Or point me to a thread where someone has already done it. Like i said i can put the key in run and i get all my power, so if i could do that and then hook up a push button to actually start it thatd be great.

 

I too would like to rig up a push start button .

 

Wow, you guys really need instructions for a two terminal switch? Ouch.

OK. You need a momentary-contact switch. This means that while you are holding it in the 'on' position, the terminals are connected, and when you release it, they stop.
You can find tons of different switches which will work, and all you need is one pair of pins -- more won't affect it.
Pick a switch that looks nice, and fits with wherever you want to install it. Here's a couple of examples:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Momentary-Push-Button-SPST-Switch-3A-125V-OFF-ON-Horn-Ignition-2-Pin-/360958262139?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540ac9fb7b&vxp=mtrhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Y090-11BN-Big-Head-Button-Switch-Green-Non-contacting-Accessories-self-locked-/291020285214?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c229251e(This one has one pair which is NO or Normally Open(press to connect), and one pair which is NC or Normally Closed (press to disconnect). You will use the NO pair).

Next, get two lengths of wire. You don't need it to be very thick; all it needs to do is drive the solenoid(well under 1A). Extension cord, old christmas light wire, coat-hangers dipped in something for insulation... anything will work.

Next, you need to run your wires.
The first wire goes from one terminal on the switch to power. This can either be hooked straight up to the battery if you are lazy(the battery side of your starter relay on the passenger side may be a good place), or, better, key-switched power. You'll have to look in the fuse-box for a wire which is switched -- If you need, the autoparts store sells little fuse-replacement doo-dads which allow you to 'split' the fuse and give you a wire which you can hook up to whatever you want.

The second wire simply goes from your switch's other terminal to the small, upper terminal on the passenger side fender solenoid.

Basically, you know how to start it from the passenger side fender wall with a screwdriver? You're doing that, but using a switch instead of the screwdriver.


That's all there is to it. Just remember that doing it this way bypasses all of those silly safety switches, so when you press the button it will crank. No matter what.

 

No need to get snippy lol just want to get all the information to get it right the first time. Thank you for your help

 

What witch craft is this that you speak of Macrobb?

 

No need for jury-rigging here, just fix it right and be done with it.

 

the fact that you put a new ignition switch in and "it only worked for a few days"
tells me the ignition actuator is probably bad.
drop the ignition switch. use a small screwdriver to move the slider, and see if it starts.
if it does, the actuator in the top of the column is bad.
it is a $15 part.

 

No problem. It just sounds so simple to me.
:P
Why fix it right when you can jury-rig it?

Heck, I ended up using the key switch, but without any of the steering column wrapper pieces on. I just reach my finger down in the top and move the lever to on/off/acc. Starting is done with a push button.

My dad did the same, but he just whacked the rod as it runs down the top, and bent it into a 90 upward to make it easy to grab.

Only downside is that with nothing to keep them in, the pins that hold the steering-tilt mechanism in want to wiggle out over time; I've glued them in a couple of times.