Better Rust control, Better Bed supports
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 280
Likes: 3
From: MISSOURI
Ford isn't going to do anything about it. They are just going to keep making the sheetmetal thinner and minimally engineer it more to save weight and material costs. Aluminum will still corrode and bubble up paint. Ford will also end up transitioning to thinner "stronger" steels on the frame which will rust out faster and end up being boxed so it is harder to get at.
Ford has actually been painting less parts on the SD compared to what they were before. Just looking under the truck there are so many places that could have been designed/engineered to minimize the holding of moisture, salt and other debris but the engineers just could not get it figured out.
Keep on top of and repair the rust the best you can or deal with it. Buying a new vehicle every few years is a total waste of money and they are not going to get built any better in the future.
Ford has actually been painting less parts on the SD compared to what they were before. Just looking under the truck there are so many places that could have been designed/engineered to minimize the holding of moisture, salt and other debris but the engineers just could not get it figured out.
Keep on top of and repair the rust the best you can or deal with it. Buying a new vehicle every few years is a total waste of money and they are not going to get built any better in the future.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 6,801
Likes: 7
From: DFW, TX-GoldCanyon, AZ
Painting the undercarriage and coating internal cavities with a film or waxoyl is probably the best way to go. Paint should be a heavy enamel like Rustoleum as it will be pretty chip resistant.
Powder Coating on things like springs and cast brackets would be good, but can work against you in some cases..
I have a Western Snow Plow blade that was powder coated. Where the powder coating gets nicked and rust starts, the powder coating starts lifting and trapping water between the coating and the steel - now you have real problems.. I bought my plow this way and ended up hiring a local bodyman to sandblast and grind all the powder coating off of the areas that were bubbling (a couple were a foot across) and then primed and painted with Rustoleum. The paint may chip but the repairs will be easy..
My new rig will get the full treatment before winter sets in here...
Powder Coating on things like springs and cast brackets would be good, but can work against you in some cases..
I have a Western Snow Plow blade that was powder coated. Where the powder coating gets nicked and rust starts, the powder coating starts lifting and trapping water between the coating and the steel - now you have real problems.. I bought my plow this way and ended up hiring a local bodyman to sandblast and grind all the powder coating off of the areas that were bubbling (a couple were a foot across) and then primed and painted with Rustoleum. The paint may chip but the repairs will be easy..
My new rig will get the full treatment before winter sets in here...
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
From: bois-des-filion, quebec
When spending my wintersin Québec provinceI used to paint (I had no compressor at the time) with Esso WR grease or better Shell 2000 Extreme grease diluted with used mineral spirit used for cleaning paintbrushes. The Shell grease stays on for 2 to 3 years where it gets moderately blasted by water. Inside the doors you do it once. Some people at my place use thick heated oïl and even used motor oïl with a motor cleaner kit sold at Harbor freight Tools for around 20.$ It is quite a job, cleaning with compressed air first then putting something on the ground to protect the driveway,or the garage floor or the lawn, You need somethng to protect your lungs too, IT IS A MESS.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
speakerfritz
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
28
Apr 22, 2015 09:46 AM
67and71_Carl
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Jan 30, 2004 07:22 PM