First trip of the season pointed out nasty things. I've been putting off top end engine work but before I tear into it, I could use some advise.

2006 F-350 dually with 96K miles. Last year I replaced the dummy and standing pipe O rings, and EGR valve. Shoulda kept going.
1) Running T6 oil with Archoil trying to cure sticky injectors.
2) Stock EGR cooler and oil cooler.
3) My Edge programmer shows #2 & #4 cylinders not equal with others. Injectors sticking.
4) Going over summit the fan was kicking in at 205. Readings at top were: EGT 1150, ECT 230, EOT 255.

I don't want to do this work again. What should I replace? By the way, my top blue hose burned a hole in it on this trip. My son brought up a $25 hose from china I think. That blew off on the way home (27 pounds turbo). After putting it back on 3 times to get home I bought a $75 hose from Ford Parts. A world of difference in quality. Learned my lesson there.
Thanks for all the good help you guys give me. I'm a contest BBQer and can turn out world class ribs but my training in being a diesel locomotive mechanic left out Ford engines for some reason.

 

EGR delete, Blue spring mod, Coolant filter, Oil cooler from Ford(not the dorman)......

 

Get a baseline on the difference between your Oil and Coolant temps to get an idea of whether it's clogged or not.. Towing up a long grade doesn't give you any idea how well (or not) your oil cooler is working.


Get your temp oil/coolant up to 190-ish on the highway and drive 65 MPH for about 15 minutes watching the oil and coolant temps. You want the oil to be within 15* of the coolant.. the closer together they are the better.

The highway should be more-or-less flat and steady driving. It's a easy way for everyone to compare with each other.

Post up what you get...

 

Wildman, thank you. I did the blue spring thing when I added to much additive to the fuel and the gasket leaked. I have never heard of coolant filter but will look into.
Misky that sounds great, that oil temp really threw me. I will do as you suggest and report back. If there's one thing we have in Utah it's miles and miles of flat road that leads to miles and miles of 6% hills.

 

Everything looks good to me, except when I got to your coolant and oil temps at the peak, the coolant and oil are a tad high.

Does it normally run that hot? If it cooled down quick then I would not be so concerned , running the I-24 Chattanooga hills I peaked at eot 240 but it cooled real quick, egt's were about the same if not higher.

 

Thanks for coming back. No that's not what I have seen in the past but on that day the outside air was 90+, I was pulling a 34 foot fifth wheel, with a trailer and two ATVs behind it, going over a summit after 5 miles of 6 degree climb. On the way up in trailer mode on my Edge was alerting at 1300 degrees so I was backing it off to keep from melting things. EOT and ECT backed down good after hitting summit and cruising down the other side.
As much as I pay attention to that Edge Evolution I really wonder how Ford sends trucks out with just gauges, If I didn't have that extra information like EGT, I'm afraid I would have a melt down. Or am I just paranoid?

 

Another trick for egt's I have found is to get the truck to downshift and get the rpms up, it is when the motor bogs down that they really climb fast. I could keep my egt's around 1100 this way.

 

1) Stop using archoil. If it didn't help right away it won't. Do the injectors, or polish the valves.

2)BPD EGR and Oil Cooler and you are done forever and still emission legal. Stock oil cooler if $ doesn't allow.

3) See 1

4)First off, too much split. Even loaded and climbing. Secondly, back off!!! Never let it get that hot, that's dangerous. I was just in Montana and Wyoming and was climbing big grade. Never went over 230 EOT or ECT. But I did go 20 MPH doing it. I was also pulling about 18000 lbs.

Take your time and do a very good coolant flush first, then replace the coolers, injectors, STC fitting, and so on. Then add a coolant filter and you should be good in the top end.

 

I think the most important thing is to put a budget together and then ask based on a budget, what should be replaced.

 

^^^^X 2 on that

 

They've all given you pretty good advice. If you don't want to do it again and you're running a programmer and towing, AND your budget allows it...AND you will be keeping your truck for a long time to come...do the head studs, EGR delete if you don't emissions to worry about, a new oil cooler (I think the Ford one is fine), STC fitting, either replace the injectors or clean the spool valves, new orings on stand pipes/dummy plugs, and keep that coolant refreshed. Lots of guys go the red ELC but I think the Ford Gold is fine if you stay on top of it and have the EGR cooler removed.
You don't have to do all that stuff, it's kind of a wish list, but the chances are great that if you do it all at once you won't have to go back again. At least that's the route I took.

I don't understand the comment about the blue spring and a fuel leak from additive. I don't think too much fuel additive would cause that. Is it still leaking? You might need to get a new housing if so. When I did mine I elected to get the whole kit with the new housing, but I believe they sell just the spring and a couple orings.

And a big x2 on the oil additive, at this point it's a waste of money if you continue to use it and it didn't help.

I think that 1300 degrees for a minute or so is ok, if you keep it there for several minutes well now things will start to heat soak and become problematic.