Axle Pivot Bushing Problem
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 79
From: Mooresville, NC
Ok --- you might want to revisit those bracket bolts coming down through the crossmember (and the horizontal retainer/bolts)........get the bracket "loose" basically, link up with the axle then hit everything with the ft lbs...........
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
We do do what we gotta do though!
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 104
Likes: 3
From: Dalhart, TX
I have prybars ranging in size from small to too long to fit underneath, I just can't budge it.
Loosening the bracket was one of my first ideas, however as danr1 said with the I-beam in place I cant tighten the bolts. I think I could possibly get to the top two but the two on the side I definitely couldn't, and leaving them tight wouldn't give me any play in the bracket.
Loosening the bracket was one of my first ideas, however as danr1 said with the I-beam in place I cant tighten the bolts. I think I could possibly get to the top two but the two on the side I definitely couldn't, and leaving them tight wouldn't give me any play in the bracket.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 79
From: Mooresville, NC
I'd shim it (bracket to crossmember connection) to pick up the degrees needed..........(of course I'm so use to welding everything to get everything right on the money)..........
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Depends on what's preventing you from moving it, say for example heavy bind right there at the bracket. If so, to much bind due to pinch use your bar to spread the bracket open some. Put end of bar between end of I beam and bracket flange where presents enough gap to work, pry against beam opening bracket as much as you can more so as you gain little more room to work the bar front or back side or both. metal digging in tad so doubt need much.
Doing so won't hurt it, once you put the bolt through and tighten it down you'll pinch it back closed again tight to the steal bushing inside the rubber bushing. You want it pivoting at the rubber not on the bolt in the end and bolt tight you'll get it back easy.
Weight on the tire is an issue but only a little its sidewall will allow enough give to move the beam that little distance.
Doing so won't hurt it, once you put the bolt through and tighten it down you'll pinch it back closed again tight to the steal bushing inside the rubber bushing. You want it pivoting at the rubber not on the bolt in the end and bolt tight you'll get it back easy.
Weight on the tire is an issue but only a little its sidewall will allow enough give to move the beam that little distance.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 104
Likes: 3
From: Dalhart, TX
Such remedies have occurred to me, I just feel like there's a way to get it on "right" even though I haven't figured out what that is yet.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 79
From: Mooresville, NC
Depends on what's preventing you from moving it, say for example heavy bind right there at the bracket. If so, to much bind due to pinch use your bar to spread the bracket open some. Put end of bar between end of I beam and bracket flange where presents enough gap to work, pry against beam opening bracket as much as you can more so as you gain little more room to work the bar front or back side or both. metal digging in tad so doubt need much.
Doing so won't hurt it, once you put the bolt through and tighten it down you'll pinch it back closed again tight to the steal bushing inside the rubber bushing. You want it pivoting at the rubber not on the bolt in the end and bolt tight you'll get it back easy.
Weight on the tire is an issue but only a little its sidewall will allow enough give to move the beam that little distance.
Doing so won't hurt it, once you put the bolt through and tighten it down you'll pinch it back closed again tight to the steal bushing inside the rubber bushing. You want it pivoting at the rubber not on the bolt in the end and bolt tight you'll get it back easy.
Weight on the tire is an issue but only a little its sidewall will allow enough give to move the beam that little distance.
With the pry bar (current out of alignment) aren't we asking a lot
of that bushing later?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 104
Likes: 3
From: Dalhart, TX
I will reassess again tomorrow, in the mean time please contribute any ideas that come to mind for me try in the morning.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
What does it look like looking straight up at it? A "view" you didn't post. How it look besides toe once had screw driver shaft through bolt hole? Front to back near dead on one side bolt hole lines up but half hole or better off other side?
Again we can't see what you're seeing, is it "off" by that much to point you'd be concern with the life of the new bushing?
Bushing will make up for a little yea but shouldn't be off by enough to cause it to fail prematurely no.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 294
From: Laramie, WY
I just did this on my TTB D44 (same basic design). I took the radius arm nuts off, had the top of the springs unbolted, and it took a lot of leveraging/force. It isn't an "easy" job but when is front end work not bull work? You've nearly got it in, maybe you need to loosen up the radius arm nuts more or pull the springs. Sometimes trying to take "shortcuts" is counterproductive...
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach/Wisconsin
If your radius arm bracket has been removed to change those bushings in the past, unbolt it again. that will get a lot more play. If it hasn't, cot the rivets so you can get the play to get the pivot bushing, then work your way out. Get everything put together loose, then tighten everything. What could be causing the problem is the 1 1/8" bolts top and bottom at the front of the radius arm where it meets the axle. Loosen them ( they are gonna be a bear). If they are way out of wack, and not allowing any side to side movement becuz being out of wack for so long, that's probably where your binding is coming from. The big bolt that comes up through the coil spring. What's under there is what I'm talking about.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 104
Likes: 3
From: Dalhart, TX
No worries. Look, I took on a job that I hadn't done before and encountered an obstacle that I couldn't have known was present, one that only an actual alignment shop can fix correctly. At least I was able to get it back close enough to get it to the shop. I still saved money by installing my own bracket and one of the pivot bushings. That would have been two hours labor plus markup on parts. That's at least $200. Plus I learned something.
I'm gunna have a beer anyway.
I'm gunna have a beer anyway.
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