2000 5.4L coil-on-plug problem--Help?
#1
2000 5.4L coil-on-plug problem--Help?
Before my brother moved to Hawaii 5 years ago, he had #7 plug eject and a local shop installed a Helicoil to fix the problem and so he shipped his F-150 over with him.
Now, 5 years later he had the same plug eject again but it battered the coil-on-plug and the coil needs to be replaced. He tried removing the mounting bolt for the coil but the captive nut just spins. He says it looks like a brass fastener on the bolt but he can't remove the bolt. I suspect whoever did the last 'fix' over-tightened the coil mounting bolt and stripped the external grooves of the nut/fastener.
Any suggestions for a way to remove and repair the nut?
Thanks in advance....
Now, 5 years later he had the same plug eject again but it battered the coil-on-plug and the coil needs to be replaced. He tried removing the mounting bolt for the coil but the captive nut just spins. He says it looks like a brass fastener on the bolt but he can't remove the bolt. I suspect whoever did the last 'fix' over-tightened the coil mounting bolt and stripped the external grooves of the nut/fastener.
Any suggestions for a way to remove and repair the nut?
Thanks in advance....
#2
the attachment is a bolt... about 4-5 mm ??. Probably grind off the head and slip the coil off the stud ( remainder of the bolt). After the coil is off, you will have to cut the stud or pull it out of the hole, or drill, etc... I think your right, there is an insert in the hole and it will need to be pulled out, or epoxy tight or ???
#3
#5
Join Date: Apr 2013
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I had my # 5 plug do it, so it was easier to get to.
I ended up using a drill with a 7mm socket adapter on it and spun the bolt/insert very fast. It got it hot enough to allow me to pull out the entire bolt and insert at one time. I used some 2 part epoxy to put it back in after re-threading the insert.
If replacing the coil, you can also break the coil where it mounts at the bolt (Mine broke while messing with it). There is a metal insert on the coil, so a dremel with a cut off wheel could work to cut through the plastic.
I found several references saying you don't even need the bolts to hold the coils in place, there were some Lightning replacement COP that did not even have bolt holes in them.
Not sure about the #7 plug, but #5 was in a spot that I had debated drilling it out and then using a szp tie to hold it in if the inserted was trashed.
When he gets the plug hole fixed, use a time-sert, better option for spark plug holes.
Here is my post on another forum about it.
I ended up using a drill with a 7mm socket adapter on it and spun the bolt/insert very fast. It got it hot enough to allow me to pull out the entire bolt and insert at one time. I used some 2 part epoxy to put it back in after re-threading the insert.
If replacing the coil, you can also break the coil where it mounts at the bolt (Mine broke while messing with it). There is a metal insert on the coil, so a dremel with a cut off wheel could work to cut through the plastic.
I found several references saying you don't even need the bolts to hold the coils in place, there were some Lightning replacement COP that did not even have bolt holes in them.
Not sure about the #7 plug, but #5 was in a spot that I had debated drilling it out and then using a szp tie to hold it in if the inserted was trashed.
When he gets the plug hole fixed, use a time-sert, better option for spark plug holes.
Here is my post on another forum about it.
#6
Thanks to all who have responded!!!!
Sent them all to by brother. Looks like vacating the hole and BJ Weld the old one, if it's threads are salvageable, back in. We'll see what he wants to do.
Wish I could afford to go over to help him! Of course, I'd have to take in all the Hawaii sights first!
Sent them all to by brother. Looks like vacating the hole and BJ Weld the old one, if it's threads are salvageable, back in. We'll see what he wants to do.
Wish I could afford to go over to help him! Of course, I'd have to take in all the Hawaii sights first!
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