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Clarity in communicating observations is critical. Ambiguity causes wasted time, money, and effort. BTW, it's actually spelled "inept", not "inapt". Ironic.
Pull out the main light switch and check for power at pin 6, connector C205b (brown wire) when the switch is in either the Park or Headlight position. Inspect that connector pin for damage, overheating, or corrosion.
If power is present, replace the main headlight switch. If not, troubleshoot open circuit between pin 6 and splice S216 (goes back to C206a pin 12).
FYI, the door lock switches don't go through the dimmer, they are switch on or off only.
I have 12v at both Brown wires at headlight switch. Does this mean the switch is bad? If so is there two wires on back of the switch I can short to test my dash lights?
Also I meant no disrespect with my previous comment. Was more of a joke on myself. I'm pretty good with small electronics and more mechanical aspects. An electrical system complex as this is a little over my head lol.
I have checked switch, the overdrive wire everyone mentions, and much more in the dash. I took the gauge cluster out yesterday and tested voltage at the lights. All the lights looked good and were not burnt, and I did NOT have power at them. Is there a relay anywhere that controls solely the dash lights? Only dash light that works is FOG lamp indication light.
** edit:
If i cannot figure this out i may just wire LEDs to all the light locations on my own relay and fuse to turn on with running lights. I hate to go around something factory like that, but i wont pay the stealership to fix this.
I got it temporarily fixed. The dimmer was the problem. Pulled a switch from an f150 which has the same harness. Tested all the connections and compared that to the f250. The blue with red stripe was not showing or changing in voltage with the dimmer as it should. Temporarily put a t-tap on the brown dimmer wire and plugged the blue/red into it.
Thanks everyone for your help and patience. Anyone know where I can get a switch for under $100?