Problem with that is your symptoms suggest your VSS is fine, an after market type replacement might do more harm than good. Air gap for example may suffer, that coupled with cheaply produced part over the original possibly adding yet another layer to your problems.

The VSS rarely goes bad and if problem with it more likely to be circuit related (connection issues / damaged wire/s) over the actual sensor itself, as with anything they occasionally do go bad yea but unlikely in your case as your speedo does work (Working under assumption it works fine as you mentioned nothing of jumpy or otherwise erratic needle action, if suffered that condition you surely would have included that by this point I'd think).


I'd suggest you start with swapping the PSOM/speedo out clearing the codes see what that does for ya first, see if that code and condition returns.

 

I got the parts, but have not put the new VSS in yet. The old one did have some "crud" on it like typical junk in the rear diff housing. Not corroded over badly but still gunked up. The thing is I am able to get it up on the lift and change it back and forth. I might just clean up the old one first and "Re-try" it but my trans guy did say to check the VSS for crud. Anyway, nothing to report yet, I had to work late at my real job. On a side note since that trans is pretty expensive to rebuild and I'd LOVE to have a 5speed in the truck. (I know I'd have to find a good donor for pedals and such) But since the speedo sensor is in the rear diff and all, I could potentially go to a "stick" with out hurting anything couldn't I?? I was thinking of using a 5speed from a 5.0/302 Mustang. I know that the 5.8 and 5.0 has the same bell housing and stuff. I have a buddy with a salvage yard with a pretty extensive amount of parts that I could use. Thanks again. I'll be able to tell you more when I have some more stuff done.

 

OK, I took out the old VSS and like I said its kind of cruded over looking. I cleaned up the reluctor ring really well and checked for any thing out of the ordinary. (It looked fine) I cleaned out the diff housing and resealed the cover. I put in new gear oil and pos. additive (3.55's and pos) anyway, in the meanwhile I found a real Ford F150 dealership manual that I had and forgotten about. After looking around under the dash, I noticed something unplugged. Its the RABS module, when I plugged it back in and turned the key on, it dinged 5 times in a row several times and even after starting the engine it did it but stopped after moving down the road. The truck shifts fine from a very slow take off and also a very hard take off. Everything seems fine but I wanted to know about the RABS module being hooked up or not?? I assume that's what it is?? Its kind of blue in color and is to the right of the steering column it has 2 plugs going to it one that's gray and one that's black. It had been unplugged for a while (previous owner?) Or maybe I did it and forgot about it?? At any rate, is this what this is and does it have anything to do with shift points?? I have not changed the speedo out for the original one but I did find it. Its been in good clean dry storage and is fine but I'm trying to test out one thing at a time. I drove the truck with the RABS hooked up and without hooked up. The only difference I could tell was the dinging for the initial startup and going off after it dinged/beeped 5 times in a row several times. Thanks again dudes. This might have fixed it but will know more the more I drive it. By the way, do you guys recommend any kind of trans additives for high mileage E4OD's?? Thanks again guys.

 

The RABS module is behind the glove box.



I am not 100% sure what you plugged back in but I suspect due to the location and 5 dings it is the air bag diagnostic module.

 

I bet you're right dude. I did disconnect the airbag on the the steering wheel and I bet it threw a fit and makes it ding and I unhooked it a long time ago?? It does have some numbers on it but I didn't have a light when I got around to looking at that. I'll try to see it better. Thanks. I still may change the PSOM and speedo as a unit but I'm goin to drive it a little this weekend and see how it does. Thanks again guys.

 

Ok, the truck seems to be fixed (I hope) long story short I had already changed the VSS and got time today to drive it. It seemed better for a good while but after it warmed up it did it again but not as bad but this time it did it all the way into 4th (not OD/lockup) and acted a little funny slowing/gearing down. I found the old cluster and changed the speedo part. It had almost the exact same numbers but a different manufacturing plant?? Anyway, I remember now why I put in the other one cause it had the truck's original mileage on it. Cause when I changed the speedo it reflected the odometer change. It shifts great now and smooth but just the right firmness like it did before all this mess. I let it get good and warm before driving it and then messed with it a bunch. As I said it does great right now (I hope it stays like this)



As I had said before, are there any good high mileage additives for transmissions?? If so which ones to use and which ones to stay away from?? Thanks again so much guys for all the great help. FTE family is GREAT!!

 

Personally I would stay away from anything labeled as "high mileage". It's marketing IMHO

 

Look on the PSOM circuit board, most likely that capacitor has leaked acid(built like a dry cell battery) that dammaged the PCB.

I had this exact issue with my 95 E350. The speedo/odo worked Ok, but the PSOM was not sending the speed info to the ECU, causing the bad shifting E4OD tranny. Put a good PSOM in and no more head jerking shifts.

 

Getting ready to take her out for a good drive this morning and deliver some more parts. I'll know more after while but THANKS again for all the help you guys are the greatest!!

 

I have one sitting here on my desk suffers same affliction. Few months back while I didn't have an exact match to it, voltage rating not quite high enough (10 volts to low), I swapped out the cap anyway and tested it anyway no change. Doesn't appear to have blown it but probably did, wasn't meant to be permanent fix, hoped it'd last just long enough prove it would correct the problem.

I intend to get one with the correct rating and retest just haven't had the time, to many "must do" projects get in the way of that sort of thing!

Truxx,

That's great, as always it's nice to hear you where able to fix it.

 

The PSOM that was in my E350 had a surface mounted transistor and some resistors that was dammaged from the leaking capacitor. I am a electronics repair tech so I am able to fix it after cleaning off the acid juice that leaked out. My fix lasted for a few years till the PSOM quit saving mileage to the EEPROM when I turn off the key. That drove me nuts till I found what was happening.

I got another PSOM and swapped out the EEPROMS so I can keep the mileage and CAL factors. I also replaced that capacitor with a better rated one like 25V or 50V(forgot the uF value) and made sure there was no acid on the PCB.

No more issues and now I get the usual 8.5 MPG the beast usually gives....

 

I have a 97 250 diesel with a e4od . It has been rebuilt and work great in a parts truck I bought .i took the trans out and install it in my truck. My truck is a 97 just like the parts truck .the trans when it gets hot starts pulling fast in reverse. When it goes in gear it starts out right then jumps to higher speed. It really goes fast, if you don't know about the problem it will take off. It fells like it is about a 1/8 throttle . The trans has new fluid & filter. It works great going forward. Does anybody out there have seen this problem and may know how to fixed it. I hate going to repair shops. Thanks