hey guys I have a 2003 f250 with 130k.

I recently installed warren diesels comp plus transmission, I also installed Calvert racing Cal trac traction bars!

I am getting wheel hop like crazy when I spin the tires! on road, off road. I've replaced shcks, rear bushings on leaf springs (fronts are solid because traction bars), u-joints are good, rear differential is good with fresh fluid. the reason why I installed the traction bars is because I was getting bad axel wrap. can anybody point me in the direction to start?

heres my mod:

studded
deleted
warren diesel 225cc %75
warren diesel tuned
warren diesel twin oil pump kit
warren diesel comp plus trans
ported intake manifold
4in exhaust
custom fuel system
front ARB air locker
6in lift[blocks]
37in nitto trail grapplers

 

Can you get 6" springs instead of blocks? Also what wheelbase?

Sent from my leash using IB AutoGroup

 

extended cab
short bed
1 piece drive shaft (slip yoke)

if everything else fails I will buy some 6in springs!

what else would you think?

 

6" springs will stiffen it up more, spun the tires fine on my V10 with 38's with no blocks and 6" springs, don't think you should have an issue either

 

I have no promblem spinning them. Just super bad hop. It wasent hopping before the transmission and traction bar install!

What im think is with the new transmission and upgraded torque converter its actually getting all the power to the ground!

Im gonna end up buying some 6in springs if I cant figure anything else out.

 

I didn't question the trucks power, i mean't my v10 without traction bars would burn 38" mud grapplers with no hop having 6" springs

 

My apologies I misunderstood you.
I just wanna make sure theres nothing else it could be!?

 

Your Cal's need to be adjusted.
Make sure your shackle is at 90*
Check and make sure your instant center is correct.
By the description you have too much "high vehicle anti-squat"
And need to balance it out.
To much literally puts the pressure that normally lifts your axle up to the tires forcing them down. That's how Cal's work.
If your instant center is off, which it sounds like the mounting plate on your axle where the Bell-crank is fixed is either too tall(towards the ground or too far forward so the rotational energy is too much at the top bell crank and in return have too much down word pressure in response to the amount of force generated by the ring and pinion as they climb one another.
Normally this happens naturaly and the forces are all equal even tho we don't want the axle wrap.
But since you went with Caltrac they apply pressure down where traction bars apply pressure up.
So your problem is only adjusting one thing or another on your Cal's. U should have an adjustment on your "tracs" for alignment. I've never had a pair but am in the process of fabricating fronts and rears on my 05 6.0l TD F350. I crashed into a gas pump pole on Christmas night. Was tired and truck was just high enough I couldn't see the pole. My truck is about 3 inches to short to clear it but the three inches was enough to blind me and 2 inches of my tire cought it doing 3mph. These trucks are so heavy it wasn't the speed but enersha that ripped my main leaf right in half and tore my axle out, drivline on the ground and hange/shackle combo bent to hell.
So I can't stand new with old suspension parts. I rebuilt the entire suspension. Cut all the brackets off the frame. Re-bolted new shackles and hangers front and back and in doing so had a month of research in geometry as I not only used 8" lifted springs I used 5.5" blocks on top of those. So in building all of that and calling Cal-tracs in Lancaster California they pretty much told me everything to do and look up. With out their help it would have taken me a year. Instead I did it in 3 months peice by piece not once going to ford.
Ace hardware and Home Depot along with Davis salvage scrap yard I built everything by hand unless I had to order from 4x shop down the street.
One thing u can do is add Multiple shocks like I did. I mounted both at factory location on the axle and one at the factory at the top and custom made a mount on the inner frame 12 inches in front of the other. It was amazing the ride got unbelievably better than any truck I've ever been in.
On the front I did a normal twin mount vertical by welding a tube front to back and going to ace and making my own spacer a bolt kit. The third I drilled in between the two down lower about 6" and checked to make sure travel wasn't bothered up or down and turned the eye mount side to side where at the bottom it was in factory mount.
My piont is all of these suspension mods will work as long as all the geometry is carefully designed.
There is a gauge I forget what it's called, I think it's just an angle finder? But locate a quality digital one, it'll be easy for u to use and check all the proper angles on your rearend. Including drive shaft. Then do your math and double check it all. You will find that the angle of your reactions bars are prob out by a few degrees.
Sorry that was so long. Ive never done any of this before and I don't know how else to explain it.
I am kinda poor so doing myself is the only way I can have nice things. But at the same time my SD is my baby. Even if it brakes every week, hints my name!
I hope I helped more than confused you.

 

Ford thanks for the reply.

I went out to adjust the cal tracs again and on the driver side there is about 12 threads showing and on the passenger side there is about 4 threads showing. I cant forrce the passenger side to show 12 thread eaither.

The bars are the same length. So what should I do? I call calver raceing and they said at one side of the truck must be lower then the other. I put a level on it and it pretty much exactly level. They Haven't helped much or or explain anything like that

 

You have a huge 6" block on top of the axle. That's leverage. Get some correct springs. Try "loosening" the preload on the track bars, you might be shocking the tires in to the ground too hard.

What worked for me on all my trucks was Roadmasters. I'm not a big CalTrac fan on a truck. I bet you are still getting axle wrap. Do you have a back up camera you could mount underneath to see what's happening? Ubolt an end of the Caltrac bars and see if you still get the wheelhop.

 

I will try and find a place to mount my go pro and see whats going on under there

 

That is your problem.
Something is out of level/square/plumb.
Have u ever played the drums?
If not no worries. Sit down with a table in front or you. Put your hand you would be using to tap your fingers to the sound of music. Starting with your index finger....tap once. Then move into using two fingers one after the other. Keep doing do until you are moving every finger besides your thumb. Tap tap tap and tap. 1,2,3,4 one after another and then tap all four at once. If you had a DB meter you would see that all four create a much louder impact.
That's common sense. But one would not apply that to this situation normally but since we can't all see each other it's an easy way for me to help others understand this.
If you apply force to the rear tires there is a certain amount or give that takes place as you loose energy before the motor power gets all the way to the ground.
So if both tires move(Tap) at the same times they would either light up and spin, or grip and your truck would move forward.
If one tire gets that power just a fraction of a second before the other one(Tap,Tap), you are not only loosing power. Your jerking one side before the other causing a vibration or Hop!
As one "Taps the ground it starts the climb or grip out of the location on the pavement. If the other is not in sequence they won't move forward equally. They will bounce off each other if bad enough. Just like reverberation on a set of drums:
It's not some thing most would consider but when adding all these mods to a powerful mule like these fords are it becomes important just like balancing and blue printing the motor on a race car.
You need to check every angle that has the possibility to be adjusted or could be mounted without being locked in place.
Your leafs could be the same but the block could be a 1/8 taller and your bed could be a 1/8 shorter on the same side making you thing your truck is level.
At night put a laser across the back of your truck and check everything. The axle, then blocks, the third leaf in the pack on both sides? You will find what it is that way. Some thing will be off. The only other thing is using a water level. Get some tubing from ace and fill it with water and fabric softener. Turn on a black light out side to see the water glow. During the day put food coloring or chalk line powder in the water to color it. Put one side of the tube on one side of the back and the other to the front.
All tho u checked the rear don't forget the rise or fall of the front on the left could be more than the right. That will move it out of alignment aswell.
Hope this book I just wrote helped u figure it out.