Sorry. 
Mild 460 build
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 17
From: Dryden, ON, Canada
Your cam choice will give up some power in exchange for sound but it should run decently in your truck. Personally I would not run it but I don't care if my truck has a lumpy idle. I have a very small amount of lope at 500 rpm, especially when the MSD kicks back into start retard(I run a digital 6 plus)
For oil I run what used to be Esso XD3 Extra 0w40, it is Mobil branded (Delvac 1 ESP 0W40) now but it used to only be available on my side of the border.
I have run it in all of my engines since 2002 and I have never had any issues whatsoever.
Time will tell if it is still the solution or if I need to go roller.
For oil I run what used to be Esso XD3 Extra 0w40, it is Mobil branded (Delvac 1 ESP 0W40) now but it used to only be available on my side of the border.
I have run it in all of my engines since 2002 and I have never had any issues whatsoever.
Time will tell if it is still the solution or if I need to go roller.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I don't want to start an oil thread But I think that any good diesel oil will have enough ZDDP and enough detergent for your engine.
I use Rotella T6, but T3 or Delvac (Mobil) ESP 5W40 would be fine.
I use Rotella T6, but T3 or Delvac (Mobil) ESP 5W40 would be fine.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I should clarify - I could have gone with a flat-tappet cam since I can get good oil, as Jim suggests. But, this truck is being built for the long haul and I am not convinced my offspring will understand the critical need for using the right oil with such a cam. So I'm spending the bucks now to make it maintenance-friendly for them.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I hear you Gary.
My mother had a turbo Passat wagon.
I tried in vain to explain that she needed the expensive Mobil1 VW/Audi approved 501 01 oil.
She coked up the engine and lost the seals in the turbo.
Then she wanted me to fix it!
Stupid AND expensive
My mother had a turbo Passat wagon.
I tried in vain to explain that she needed the expensive Mobil1 VW/Audi approved 501 01 oil.
She coked up the engine and lost the seals in the turbo.
Then she wanted me to fix it!
Stupid AND expensive
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I'm not sure why I'm leery of my kids and their maintenance abilities, but it might have to do with:
- A conversation w/my son wherein he asked why his wife's Passat's oil pressure light was coming on as she turned corners.
- A check of the oil in my daughter's Pathetica wherein I had to add 3 quarts to find out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 65
"Pathetica" LOL Gary, that's funny right there!
The wife's 2005 Pacifica has been burning about a quart of 10/30 every 800 miles for the 75k miles we've owned it. Other than having to fight the dealer to replace the cats twice under warranty (I'm sure the ZDDP was to blame and not the oil control rings!) it hasn't been too bad a car. But compare that to the 2000 suburban with 135k miles and the most remarkable cold piston slap you've ever heard. That loose old motor barely uses 1/2 quart of 5/30 over 3k miles...go figure.
Sorry too for the hijack. Couldn't help myself!
The wife's 2005 Pacifica has been burning about a quart of 10/30 every 800 miles for the 75k miles we've owned it. Other than having to fight the dealer to replace the cats twice under warranty (I'm sure the ZDDP was to blame and not the oil control rings!) it hasn't been too bad a car. But compare that to the 2000 suburban with 135k miles and the most remarkable cold piston slap you've ever heard. That loose old motor barely uses 1/2 quart of 5/30 over 3k miles...go figure.
Sorry too for the hijack. Couldn't help myself!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 5
From: Orlando area
Some engine builders over at 460.com forum don't like them because the taller lifter body results in more pushrod angle which they say wears out the roller rocker arms quicker (puts more side load on them). I don't know if this is a big deal, and I have not had any trouble with wear yet - but I only have a few thousand miles on this engine.
Regardless, I will continue to use roller cams. No break-in issues to worry about and you can replace the cam if desired without having to worry about matching lifters to the lobe.
Of course they are more expensive.
You'll need a hardened camshaft thrust washer (or roller bearing thrust washer), shorter pushrods, and (expensive) roller lifters. Look for the lifters designed for street use (racing lifters do not get enough oil at idle to the roller bearings).
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,983
Likes: 2,736
From: Virginia
taller lifter body results in more pushrod angle which they say wears out the roller rocker arms quicker (puts more side load on them). I don't know if this is a big deal, and I have not had any trouble with wear yet - but I only have a few thousand miles on this engine.
.
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You also don't want the rocker at a severe angle where it may run out of room underneath in the slot area and start hitting the rocker bolt or stud, whichever you are using. I guess that would depend on what rocker style you are using, some have extra long slots underneath for high lift cams.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
What you have to watch out for when changing the valve train geometry is how the rocker tip is contacting the top of the valve stem tip. Since the rocker "rocks" when it's working, it actually sweeps across the valve stem tip when it pushes it down to open the valve. You don't want it running off the edge of the tip or at a bad angle which will result in excessive wear to the valve guides and then that starts the oil burning and smoking when decelerating.
You also don't want the rocker at a severe angle where it may run out of room underneath in the slot area and start hitting the rocker bolt or stud, whichever you are using. I guess that would depend on what rocker style you are using, some have extra long slots underneath for high lift cams.
You also don't want the rocker at a severe angle where it may run out of room underneath in the slot area and start hitting the rocker bolt or stud, whichever you are using. I guess that would depend on what rocker style you are using, some have extra long slots underneath for high lift cams.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 5
From: Orlando area
It is almost impossible to tell what length pushrods to use (on a modified engine) before assembly so the smart move is to get one adjustable pushrod, assemble everything and then find the correct length (checking both intake and exhaust) by adjusting the pushrod length in order to keep the rocker roller/tip is centered on the valve stem during engine rotation, then measure the adjustable pushrod and order the correct length.
such as http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...th-in/8-700-in
Good luck
such as http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...th-in/8-700-in
Good luck