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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:39 PM
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Ran when parked

It's been a long time since I've been on here, sold my last Dent two years ago. I bought this 77 302 off my cousin, ran fine, but trans started leaking. Sat for three years.Now I got a tank with fresh gas going to the fuel pump,It's getting gas to the carb (pulled line off filter after i checked the filter) It cranks over fast but will not hit unless I pour gas in carb or shoot in starting fluid. Soon as it tries to start it sounds like a giant vacuum leak the back fires through carb. I dont see any hoses off, and I don't remember my last 2bbl sounding like it was sucking that much air with the cleaner off. P.S.I searched on here for an hour before creating this post.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 04:49 AM
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I imagine the carb just needs cleaned/rebuilt. Look down throat of carb, press accelerator linkage and you should see a squirt of fuel instantly.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 08:56 AM
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Is the choke closed when you're starting it? The symptoms you describe make it sound like the choke is standing completely open.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 10:52 AM
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I tried the choke closed,half, and open same. I just looked down the carb, no fuel spray. I am going to unscrew the filter from the carb and try to gently blow it out.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 11:54 AM
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Carb is on workbench.Nasty,needle and seat froze up, jets stopped up, and when i took off the fuel filter, there was enough teflon tape to do a whole house. it was crammed up in the seat passage way too. I have an older 2100(73 model) I cleaned up to rebuild, only to the shaft had too much play. I'm gonna clean it out this one and put the jets,new needle and seat from the parts one and use the gaskets from my leftover kit.Wish me luck.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 05:41 PM
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Bingo, purrs like a kitten thanks for your help, I've seen a carb make it run bad but not completely stopped up. I ended up cleaning the parts in it. The jets were bigger and the needle and seat seemed more efficient. I figured the emissions would have been more restricted on newer.The carb has been changed over to manual choke, the choke pull off is gone. Is the choke cable supposed to work just the Flap in the air horn or is it supposed to connect to the bottom linkage too?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 06:36 PM
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The fast idle linkage is supposed to operate the same regardless of what operates the choke (automatic thermostat or manual cable).
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
The fast idle linkage is supposed to operate the same regardless of what operates the choke (automatic thermostat or manual cable).
The choke cable is hooked straight to the air horn flap, no linkage between. I will look at my parts carb tomorrow to see if I can use some linkage pieces.Does it move the same distance as the top or should it have some slack?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 73f-1
Does it move the same distance as the top or should it have some slack?
I don't really understand what that means.

A proper manual choke conversion replaces only the thermostat. Everything else, including the rotational linkage in the side-mounted choke housing, should be present in its entirety. If the choke housing is gone, there will be a vacuum leak. Several pieces make up the fast idle linkage.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 07:53 PM
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Sorry I've been on vacation. I will try to find a pic to put the linkage back. The one on it has the the choke pull-off removed and has some screw in it. If I can't figure it out I will try to post a pic of what I got.Thanks
 
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