Did my first flathead oil change today
#1
Did my first flathead oil change today
I couldn't get the drain plug out. (Didn't have a big enough socket, and couldn't get enough leverage with my pliers), so I removed the clean out plate instead. It had a hefty layer of sludge attached to it. I cleaned it off and replaced the plate.
When I went to change the oil filter, I found two things.
1. There was no filter in the cannister
2. Another hefty layer of sludge
I cleaned that out and installed a filter. After coming back in and doing research, I'm a little concerned about the health of my motor. Anyone one else have a sludged up motor? How did you deal with it?
When I went to change the oil filter, I found two things.
1. There was no filter in the cannister
2. Another hefty layer of sludge
I cleaned that out and installed a filter. After coming back in and doing research, I'm a little concerned about the health of my motor. Anyone one else have a sludged up motor? How did you deal with it?
#2
Might be worth pulling the intake manifold off to look in the valve chest. It's not that hard, but likely you'll have to buy a full gasket set to get the new gasket.
If the valve chest is full of sludge, and you're wanting to use the engine, it's well worth taking it apart and cleaning out the sludge. It is toxic (lead), and abrasive. Not uncommon to find engines that are full of it from the days of non-detergent oils and hard use. You really should have it totally stripped and have it vatted, and the oil galleys brushed. If you keep track of where every piston, valve, and lifter goes, you can simply re-assemble it and be assured of a decent-running engine, as long as it is basically sound (good bearings, good oil pump, etc).
If you end up pulling it apart, also essential to clean the cooling jackets in the block thoroughly, with pressure washing.
If the valve chest is full of sludge, and you're wanting to use the engine, it's well worth taking it apart and cleaning out the sludge. It is toxic (lead), and abrasive. Not uncommon to find engines that are full of it from the days of non-detergent oils and hard use. You really should have it totally stripped and have it vatted, and the oil galleys brushed. If you keep track of where every piston, valve, and lifter goes, you can simply re-assemble it and be assured of a decent-running engine, as long as it is basically sound (good bearings, good oil pump, etc).
If you end up pulling it apart, also essential to clean the cooling jackets in the block thoroughly, with pressure washing.
#3
Well... crap. Thanks for telling me that, even though it's not what I wanted to hear. I am determined to run a flathead in my truck, so I'll do what's necessary to keep it going.
It seems like every time I go to fix something in this truck, I find something else wrong. I'm not giving up, but man am I starting to get annoyed. The bad part is, I bought this truck under the impression it was a good running truck that just needed some cosmetic work. Can we say "naive"?
...sorry about the mini-rant. I just opened another 12 oz frosty beverage. I'll feel better about this in a few minutes.
It seems like every time I go to fix something in this truck, I find something else wrong. I'm not giving up, but man am I starting to get annoyed. The bad part is, I bought this truck under the impression it was a good running truck that just needed some cosmetic work. Can we say "naive"?
...sorry about the mini-rant. I just opened another 12 oz frosty beverage. I'll feel better about this in a few minutes.
#4
JP
If these trucks were all well maintained, more would have survived. Be glad you found the issue in your garage. These trucks can take some abuse so I'm hopeful you just need a thorough cleaning to get back on the road. Make certain that you have proper tools for the work Ross outlined.
If these trucks were all well maintained, more would have survived. Be glad you found the issue in your garage. These trucks can take some abuse so I'm hopeful you just need a thorough cleaning to get back on the road. Make certain that you have proper tools for the work Ross outlined.
#5
Thanks. I'll take a look later this week and update with what I find.
And I just needed a minute to vent. If I vent to my wife, she'll just complain about how much money I've spent.
On the flip side of being frustrated with new problems, I am happy that I'm getting to save this truck, as it's becoming apparent that it was being neglected. I use the word "save" loosely, because if you haven't noticed, I haven't the faintest clue what I'm doing.
And I just needed a minute to vent. If I vent to my wife, she'll just complain about how much money I've spent.
On the flip side of being frustrated with new problems, I am happy that I'm getting to save this truck, as it's becoming apparent that it was being neglected. I use the word "save" loosely, because if you haven't noticed, I haven't the faintest clue what I'm doing.
#6
Jason, once everything is done, its boring, I found that working on my truck is really rewarding, therapeutic, and fun. I do one thing at a time, and have had very little down time. At one time I was driving it with just the cab. I braced the radiator, hung some temp lights, and license plate, and drove it around town LOL. Don't get frustrated, you will get there, just enjoy the process, its all part of it. Heah the Girl I bought mine from was convinced all it needed was a paint job, YEAH RITE!!! My first ride, I couldn't stop, couldn't turn, and a small fire broke out under the dash, I was so glad to just get it back home from the trek around the block, wow. Enjoy.
#7
Heah the Girl I bought mine from was convinced all it needed was a paint job, YEAH RITE!!! My first ride, I couldn't stop, couldn't turn, and a small fire broke out under the dash, I was so glad to just get it back home from the trek around the block, wow. Enjoy.
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#8
#9
Well... crap. Thanks for telling me that, even though it's not what I wanted to hear. I am determined to run a flathead in my truck, so I'll do what's necessary to keep it going.
It seems like every time I go to fix something in this truck, I find something else wrong. I'm not giving up, but man am I starting to get annoyed. The bad part is, I bought this truck under the impression it was a good running truck that just needed some cosmetic work. Can we say "naive"?
...sorry about the mini-rant. I just opened another 12 oz frosty beverage. I'll feel better about this in a few minutes.
It seems like every time I go to fix something in this truck, I find something else wrong. I'm not giving up, but man am I starting to get annoyed. The bad part is, I bought this truck under the impression it was a good running truck that just needed some cosmetic work. Can we say "naive"?
...sorry about the mini-rant. I just opened another 12 oz frosty beverage. I'll feel better about this in a few minutes.
it out and apart as already said. When all nice and clean and a refresh
job rings and new bearings paint job. You will sleep better, & know what
you got. And whatever, dont get talked into engine flush junk-thats the best way to ruin it. Our shop has two EBAs to do, for a total of brand
name usa parts, runs $800. Thats complete everything-you just have to
shop, most parts come from Napa. So do it once and its done and will
now out last you. feel better now.
#10
It's a gooey sludge, no crust. It was so thick on the clean out plate I have to wonder how the pump was getting oil.
I'm fine with rebuilding the motor if I have to. I figured I'd have to do it eventually. It's probably time to take a look at the "backup" motor I have sitting in the garage to see if the block is any good, and what needs to be done to get it going. It's one of those "Ran when parked" motors.
I'm fine with rebuilding the motor if I have to. I figured I'd have to do it eventually. It's probably time to take a look at the "backup" motor I have sitting in the garage to see if the block is any good, and what needs to be done to get it going. It's one of those "Ran when parked" motors.
#11
#13
That is a pretty normal condition for an older engine. Part of the problem is that they do not get used that much anymore and the sludge builds up. In the old days everyone wanted to use Quaker State oil because it was a paraffin-based oil from the Pennsylvania oil fields instead of asphalt-based like most all the other oils (Texas, etc.). Then Quaker State ran out of Pennsylvania oil and just switched to asphalt-based oil. That Pxxxxd everyone off big time because you usually didn't find it until you had a problem.
Now all the oil companies put detergents in their oils to help with that. Multigrade oils also use polymers to change the oil viscosity so sticking with single weight oil might be best on these old trucks. Using non-asphalt based synthetic oil like Castrol might help too. The rumor was that Pennzoil was the only paraffin-based oil remaining but I wouldn't go to the bank on that after the Quaker State fiasco that I'm sure some of our "more experienced" members remember.
Regardless of what you use Ross and aby's advice on pulling the manifold is probably a good idea. When you clean things out and put in fresh detergent oil it will start cleaning things up particularly if you take some long drives. Don't be dismayed if your oil get pretty dirty quickly.
Now all the oil companies put detergents in their oils to help with that. Multigrade oils also use polymers to change the oil viscosity so sticking with single weight oil might be best on these old trucks. Using non-asphalt based synthetic oil like Castrol might help too. The rumor was that Pennzoil was the only paraffin-based oil remaining but I wouldn't go to the bank on that after the Quaker State fiasco that I'm sure some of our "more experienced" members remember.
Regardless of what you use Ross and aby's advice on pulling the manifold is probably a good idea. When you clean things out and put in fresh detergent oil it will start cleaning things up particularly if you take some long drives. Don't be dismayed if your oil get pretty dirty quickly.
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