I think I messed up when installing my new floorboard and front cab mounts. My measurement on my drivers door is about 34 1/4 on the rocker panel and only 33 15/16 on my passenger side door. If I remove the weld from the cab to the rocker panel, shouldn`t I be able to spread the opening to the correct measurement and reweld it. The cab is already bolted down. The drivers door fits like a glove and the passenger door is way to tight. It will not close all the way. Is there any easy solution.

Thanks,

Oscar

 

Did you pre brace the cab before removing the old floor



I braced my cab, made one cut and it moved about a 1/16 so added more brace

 

No I didn`t because I cut out sections at a time I didn`t think it would move.

Oscar

 

How did the door fit before you started working on it? I have a cab from a firetruck that had 3000 original miles on it and the doors fit like crap. I ended up jacking the corner out. What I'm saying is these trucks weren't the greatest put together machines and they came out of the factory poorly slapped together. The shop manual has instructions on how to adjust the doors using a block of wood and big mallet.

Your gap seems to be closer than it would have come out of the factory. I think your though about opening up the weld might be your solution but first make sure the gap is good around the rest of the door.

 

Yeah, the doors used to fit very good. Going to start cutting, this is going to be a real pain.

Oscar

 

Take your time, it's only metal and it can cut, ground and welded. It's a lot easier to work with than with wood, at least that's what I feel. Wood has to be cut perfect the first time and then when you think you have it you split a piece with a nail or screw. Metal is pretty forgiving. Plus once it's ground and smoothed throw a coat of paint over it and no one will know.

 

Did your door hinges have any fiber or paper shims between the door hinge and the body when you took the doors off? Make sure that the upper hinge shim is not stuck to the hinge or the body. If it is then remove it. That should raise the back of the door.

If you remove the weld at the front of the rocker panel you will be able to move the outer skin only (see left lower part of the picture of my truck with the outer skin removed).



If you move it forward it will have to be by more than the 5/16" that you are short by your measurement as your door is already low in the back so you will have to install shims at the lower hinge to bring it up.

First you should check the measurement of the upper hinge left to right (i.e. measure from the hinge to the rear of the door frame. You body on the right side may have parallelogramed which would mean that the whole a pillar structure is to close to the rear door frame.

I'm not sure that you will be able to move it the 5/16+" without then putting the door hinges in a bind. You may have break your welds at the lower cab mount (see picture) so that you can move the bottom of the entire A pillar.

 

I am cutting the welds at the front cab mount too so I can get the 5/16 I need. I will have the door in place this time before any tacks.

 

Good

Let us know how it works out. Take pictures if possible please.

 

http://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford...6c1e525705.jpg
is that a 48-51 cab mount if so where did you get it

 

Northern Classic Trucks in Sterling Hts., MI.

http://www.northernclassictrucks.com/cab.htm

Part #4852FCM

 

thanks very much

 

Based on my experience it is a good fit and well worth the $.

 

A porta-power is a handy tool in cases like this. You can probably rent one, but it is useful enough to own one.
For occasional use:
4 Ton Heavy Duty Portable Hydraulic Equipment Kit

 

I`m going to use a bottle jack and 2 2x4`s on the ends. Don`t have a porta power handy.