Hi all - getting codes...

p1504 (Idle air control valve),
p0443 (Evap Emiss. Sys. - purge control valve circuit), and
p1409 (EGR vacuum regulator solenoid circuit).

Scan tool indicates failure in...

H02S11 (Voltage bank 1 sensor 1) - test 0
H02S21 (Voltage bank 2 sensor 1) - test 0
$26 (Initial tank vacuum) - test high
$2A (I.d.0.0) - test 0
$2B (Vapor generation) - test high
$50 (Engine misfire) - test high
$56 (Engine misfire) - test high

Note: all started immediately after starting car in coldest morning in January. Heard a "pop". Seems to be missing and gaseous fumes in cabin. Thanks for any help.

 

I'd first check the EGR valve and see if it's blown apart. That's typically a sympton rather than the root problem, but it's a start.

 

Thanks - visually checked the egr valve and it appears ok (not blown apart).

 

Sounds like you blew a hose of the DPFE sensor.

 

projectSHO89 , doesn't that come from high differential pressure across the cats?

Dave

 

Usually due to a restricted cat but the hose can rot and fail anyway.


That would explain the noise and smells in January. The rest of the codes indicates an electrical fault which may or may not be related. First things first.

 

Replaced IAC valve and EGR vacuum regulator solenoid - did not solve problem. Will check out DPFE. Thanks.

 

DPFE hoses look okay. Did you focus on DPFE due to the high fuel tank vacuum? I replaced the IAC and EGR vac reg sol for the codes that kicked out (P1504 and P1409) but didnt purchase a part to try to correct code P0443 because I do not know what part the code refers to. I am confused. Every time I research the code, a different name for the part is referred to. The code from my scanner says that P0443 relates to EVAP Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit. I cant pinpoint an EXACT matching part to this. Can someone tell me the part from say, Rockauto? Rockauto's "vapor canister purge valve" is even shown as being 2 different parts. It would be best if I could get Motorcraft's part number. Or am I just wasting money trying to replace the third part since replacing the other two did squat? Thanks.

 

It is highly unlikely that three separate components all failed simultaneously and that are causing "circuit faults". You're probably wasting money buying parts.

I focused on the DPFE hoses because of the loud pop, the smell, and apparent misfire you described. None of those symptoms are consistent with any of the fault codes you posted except if that "pop" damaged a common wire that supplies power to those three devices.

 

I will look again at the DPFE components when I get the chance. Do you think its worth just buying a new DPFE sensor? Or do you know any reference values (ohms/volts) I can check? Thanks.

 

I think you need to find what went "pop" and why you still have fumes first. That might lead you to the complete fault picture.

 

Most of the time, I've seen the guys who heard the "pop" to report an issue with the DFPE hose blown off or a hole literally blown in the DFPE sensor (cat blockage).

Dave

 

Quote: "Replaced IAC valve and EGR vacuum regulator solenoid - did not solve problem. "

Did you clear the codes, and re-check for current values after? What are the current codes... "gaseous fumes" raw fuel or exhaust gas?

tom

 

Hey i'm new here but was researching this problem as well, but i do have an answer for you as my girlfriends 2001 Escape has the same code. your EGR VR has a 2 wire connector. 1 wire (usually red/white) is your constant 12v Feed(or reference), the other wire, should be Violet, this is your PCM signal/return/(Ground) wire. It is also a 12v wire but only gets a 12v shot/ground momentarily(i believe..) Anyway, backprobe the red/white wire with key on engine off, verify 12V(anything over 10.5V), next, backprobe the violet wire and with a test light hooked to battery POSITIVE, touch the backprobe(T-pin etc). if it lights, you have a short to ground somewhere in the wire from there to the pcm, so its only about 2 feet long). if it DOESNT light, then the circuit is not shorted,and is working correctly. I'm in the middle of finding my short, probably melted the wires together in the harness or a bad connection at the PCM, but i will get back to you asap, didn't even check how old this post was but oh well. Careful when putting 12V to ANY PCM circuit, make sure it is a 12v circuit, or u will fry your PCM =x. Also, before you do any of that, take off your EGR VR solenoid, takes 5 seconds, only 2 bolts. Measure resistance between 2 terminals, should be between 26-40 as per Ford Spec. GL! (to us both)