Codes
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Codes
1987 Ford F150. 2WD 4.9L. 4speed overdrive manual.
Aight, bought an $11 analog meter today and tried to pull my does. If I watched the meter correctly I got codes 67 and 32 flashed twice.
67 is Clutch Switch Circuit Failure. Probably explained by the fact I didn't have my foot on the clutch during the test since I had to be reading the meter. Truck only starts when you have the clutch in, so I'm not worried about that.
32 is EVP voltage below closed limit. I need to know more about that. I know it's talking about the EGR Valve Position and the sensor. Sticking open? Sticking closed? Sensor failing?
My truck dies after about 15 minutes. It used to be that it'd stay running as long as I was going fast enough to keep a decent wind flow over everything, but I gunned it thru my neighborhood and you could feel it losing power and she died right as I pulled in my spot. I can always start it, but it's staying running less and less. I was about to disconnect the cats and see, but if this code is accurate I wanna pursue that instead.
I have spark and fuel, those aren't it, so I was thinking exhaust clog. But now I'm not sure.
Aight, bought an $11 analog meter today and tried to pull my does. If I watched the meter correctly I got codes 67 and 32 flashed twice.
67 is Clutch Switch Circuit Failure. Probably explained by the fact I didn't have my foot on the clutch during the test since I had to be reading the meter. Truck only starts when you have the clutch in, so I'm not worried about that.
32 is EVP voltage below closed limit. I need to know more about that. I know it's talking about the EGR Valve Position and the sensor. Sticking open? Sticking closed? Sensor failing?
My truck dies after about 15 minutes. It used to be that it'd stay running as long as I was going fast enough to keep a decent wind flow over everything, but I gunned it thru my neighborhood and you could feel it losing power and she died right as I pulled in my spot. I can always start it, but it's staying running less and less. I was about to disconnect the cats and see, but if this code is accurate I wanna pursue that instead.
I have spark and fuel, those aren't it, so I was thinking exhaust clog. But now I'm not sure.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 374
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Might have this figured out.
First, I tested the valve's ability to hold vacuum. Pumped it up to 10 in Hg. Held it for over 30 seconds. PASS
When you release the vacuum you can hear the valve close so yea, it's opening and closing.
Next I cranked up the truck and applied vacuum to the valve and idle roughened, that's a check. Released vacuum and she smoothed out. Check.
Next I ohmed the EVP. It failed both ohm tests in the Haynes Manual. I took off the EVP and took off the EGR vacuum hose and cranked the truck up and let it run. She didn't give me any problems idling after about 15 minutes and the truck had fine vacuum.
I will drive it tomorrow. Right now EGR is inop. I will replace the position sensor then test the solenoid to make sure it is applying proper vacuum to the valve.
NOTE- With truck running and the EVP sitting in my pocket, the CEL did NOT come on. Weird?
First, I tested the valve's ability to hold vacuum. Pumped it up to 10 in Hg. Held it for over 30 seconds. PASS
When you release the vacuum you can hear the valve close so yea, it's opening and closing.
Next I cranked up the truck and applied vacuum to the valve and idle roughened, that's a check. Released vacuum and she smoothed out. Check.
Next I ohmed the EVP. It failed both ohm tests in the Haynes Manual. I took off the EVP and took off the EGR vacuum hose and cranked the truck up and let it run. She didn't give me any problems idling after about 15 minutes and the truck had fine vacuum.
I will drive it tomorrow. Right now EGR is inop. I will replace the position sensor then test the solenoid to make sure it is applying proper vacuum to the valve.
NOTE- With truck running and the EVP sitting in my pocket, the CEL did NOT come on. Weird?
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