Hey Chewedtoothpick....did you ever find a solution to your issue? I'm having similar issues and would like to know what was your outcome and if you fixed it, what the problem and fix was. Thank you. -Steve

 

Yo Steve,

It wound up being the PCM/TCM that was the problem.

I did replace the wiring even though it had tested fine, just because everyone seemed so incredulous that it was the module itself... But replacing the harness and wiring just made it worse actually. It would start mis-shifting or not shifting gear at all with the new harness - that was a huge pain testing and retesting everything again to make sure I didn't screw it up. As soon as I replaced the PCM/TCM, it worked perfectly for another 7 years and 150k miles and still worked great even the day I sold it to buy my Diesel Jeep.

Changing the PCM is so easy, I would suggest you do that first, if you can afford to risk the cost of finding one and then getting a dealer to reflash it if the settings don't match up. As old as these PCMs are now, it is possible that the eeprom just needs a re-flash, but if you PM me your symptoms I can tell you how close it is to what I was experiencing.

I hope you can find one, I might still have one (the first one that the vendor sent to me had a bad flash) in my garage if you can't find one, but it probably got e-wasted when I moved to CO.

 

Thanks for the response and congrats on the New Jeep Diesel. I still haven't figured mine out yet and trying to troubleshoot this son ova gun has got me. I will post all my postings from other forums here for ya.

 

Hello Guys I'm back with a issue again. 😏 Truck has been driving fine and all of sudden...the dreaded tow/haul light flash and check engine light appeared. Didn't have scan tool on me, so I checked trans Temp (with hands) and it didn't appear to be hot which was important to me before continuing driving. The trans gauge didn't fall to Cold level and was above it but not at normal position once warmed up. Got home put my scanner on it and showed a P0710 and P0713. Figured my TFT sensor was shot and thought this was going to be an easy fix for me.....but it never works out that way for me. Lol. Ran down to the Dealer and picked up a new Motorcraft TFT. Replaced it, reset codes, fired her up and bammnn....lights flashing and same thing. Truck still drives fine but I don't want to run it like this. I'm going to backprobe PCM and also Trans Connector starting at the PCM first with trans connector unplugged and see if I have any issues there then connect trans connector back to internal trans connector and see what my readings are there....does that sound right? 🤔. My question is if I find a bad wire whether it be from PCM to Trans, or Trans Internal from External plug to Internal, can I just run some new wires without having to replace the whole harness? If so, what is the best way to tie into the circuit ...butt connectors, sealed epoxy connectors, silicone sealed ends on connector then heat shrink tubing? That's my idea for the external side of it from PCM to Trans Harness obviously I would run the wire through a cable protector as well and zip tie out of harms way. Also if I find a problem on from the outside trans harness to TFT sensor internal side, whats the best route there since I'm inside the trans with fluids etc? Please help me out here, I want to do this right one time and call it done. I know some will say to replace whole internal trans harness but I don't have the extra funds right now to drop $300 on the harness....thought I'd pull some Mcgiver stuff but in a quality way if possible. Let me know your tricks and what you have done that has worked for you with no issues. All your help is greatly appreciated and look forward to talking. Thank you. Cheers Guys! 🥂

 

Ford Powerstroke Diesel ForumSearch Community 6.0 Trannie problems05 6.0 TFT Sensor Issue Temp Trans Transmission 5r110W TagsNoneJump to LatestUnfollow1 - 11 of 11 Posts Powerstrokin619 Powerstrokin619·Registered2005 FORD POWERSTROKE 6.0Joined Sep 6, 2022 · 12 Posts Discussion Starter · #1 · Mar 20, 2023 Hello Guys I'm back with a issue again. 😏 Truck has been driving fine and all of sudden...the dreaded tow/haul light flash and check engine light appeared. Didn't have scan tool on me, so I checked trans Temp (with hands) and it didn't appear to be hot which was important to me before continuing driving. The trans gauge didn't fall to Cold level and was above it but not at normal position once warmed up. Got home put my scanner on it and showed a P0710 and P0713. Figured my TFT sensor was shot and thought this was going to be an easy fix for me.....but it never works out that way for me. Lol. Ran down to the Dealer and picked up a new Motorcraft TFT. Replaced it, reset codes, fired her up and bammnn....lights flashing and same thing. Truck still drives fine but I don't want to run it like this. I'm going to backprobe PCM and also Trans Connector starting at the PCM first with trans connector unplugged and see if I have any issues there then connect trans connector back to internal trans connector and see what my readings are there....does that sound right? 🤔. My question is if I find a bad wire whether it be from PCM to Trans, or Trans Internal from External plug to Internal, can I just run some new wires without having to replace the whole harness? If so, what is the best way to tie into the circuit ...butt connectors, sealed epoxy connectors, silicone sealed ends on connector then heat shrink tubing? That's my idea for the external side of it from PCM to Trans Harness obviously I would run the wire through a cable protector as well and zip tie out of harms way. Also if I find a problem on from the outside trans harness to TFT sensor internal side, whats the best route there since I'm inside the trans with fluids etc? Please help me out here, I want to do this right one time and call it done. I know some will say to replace whole internal trans harness but I don't have the extra funds right now to drop $300 on the harness....thought I'd pull some Mcgiver stuff but in a quality way if possible. Let me know your tricks and what you have done that has worked for you with no issues. All your help is greatly appreciated and look forward to talking. Thank you. Cheers Guys! 🥂Reply Quote FordDoctorFordDoctor·Master Tech2019 Ford Fusion Plug-in Hybrid - 2.0L Duratec ECVT 130kWJoined Jul 10, 2007 · 1,105 Posts#2 · Mar 21, 2023 The codes you have indicate an open circuit for the TFT sensor. It is recommended that you actually test them with an ohm meter to prevent un-necessary repairs that could eventually lead to future problems. Overlaying a circuit is acceptable if done properly and you seem to understand that. Begin with testing from the PCM to the transmission connector. If the harness is chaffed and one of the TFT wires is damaged it is likely that other wires are also affected. If that is the case, I certainly would want to pinpoint the location of the open circuit. Also, this sensor receives a 5-volt reference signal from the PCM which should be verified as well. Not a fan of repairing internal transmission harnesses.Ford Senior Master Diesel Technician. Subscribe to my podcast at better homes and garages for more technical tips, tool box decorating ideas and recipes! Some people say, "He's from New Jersey - he can't help it."I say, "I am honest and direct - you can't handle it!"LikeHelpful Reactions:jokester00 and Heavy_GDReply Quote LikePowerstrokin619 Powerstrokin619·Registered2005 FORD POWERSTROKE 6.0Joined Sep 6, 2022 · 12 Posts Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 21, 2023 Thanks Ford Doctor 👍🙏 Appreciate the response and info. When testing from the PCM to Trans connector to measure resistance do I remove the trans connector with 10mm bolt in it and test from PCM to the Trans connector with bolt meaning pin from PCM to opposite pin on trans connector? I<<<<<if so, i think I need a set of long probes to be able to reach at both locations. Or do I leave it plugged in and do my test straight from PCM to internal harness TFT circuit?<<<<I'm thinking this won't tell me my strength of the first harness from PCM to Trans bulkhead connector but I could be wrong. Also, how do you find where the short or open is, what's your route on that? I would rather not rip open the whole harness to find where it's at....what do you do or what type of tools do you use to locate the short or open?Reply Quote Powerstrokin619 Powerstrokin619·Registered2005 FORD POWERSTROKE 6.0Joined Sep 6, 2022 · 12 Posts Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 21, 2023 And yes your 100% right, if there was a short or open in the circuit I would want to find where in the loom it is so I could double check surround wires to see if they are affected as well. Also, I'm not a big fan of doing hack work on wires like inside the trans internal harness but wanted to get your guys advice on it to see if you guys have done repairs on internal harnesses before without having to buy whole harness. My another idea I had if I had a bad TFT tire on internal harness was to de-pin it from trans harness and run a new TFT wire run with pin to harness but that was an idea just didn't know if it will work with damage.Reply Quote Powerstrokin619 Powerstrokin619·Registered2005 FORD POWERSTROKE 6.0Joined Sep 6, 2022 · 12 Posts Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 21, 2023 Also a few months back my scan tool brought up 2 codes that never appeared before which were, P0528 Visctronic drive fan VDF speed circuit malfunction and also a P0470 EBP sensor circuit malfunction. The EBP tubes were removed and cleaned completely no blockages and new motorcraft EBP sensor was installed. Now that I'm thinking about it, do these 2 above circuits run in the same loom as the problem I'm having now with my TFT sensor? 🤔Reply Quote Powerstrokin619 Powerstrokin619·Registered2005 FORD POWERSTROKE 6.0Joined Sep 6, 2022 · 12 Posts Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 21, 2023 Also Ford Doctor, when I replaced my TFT sensor, I noticed when I plugged it in even though it clicked seems like there was some play left to right on the connector is that normal? Or should it be tight no movement?Reply Quote FordDoctorFordDoctor·Master Tech2019 Ford Fusion Plug-in Hybrid - 2.0L Duratec ECVT 130kWJoined Jul 10, 2007 · 1,105 Posts#7 · Mar 22, 2023 Powerstrokin619 said:Also Ford Doctor, when I replaced my TFT sensor, I noticed when I plugged it in even though it clicked seems like there was some play left to right on the connector is that normal? Or should it be tight no movement?The sensor fits a little loose so it's normal.Ford Senior Master Diesel Technician. Subscribe to my podcast at better homes and garages for more technical tips, tool box decorating ideas and recipes! Some people say, "He's from New Jersey - he can't help it."I say, "I am honest and direct - you can't handle it!"Like Reactions:jokester00Reply Quote LikePowerstrokin619 Powerstrokin619·Registered2005 FORD POWERSTROKE 6.0Joined Sep 6, 2022 · 12 Posts Discussion Starter · #8 · Mar 22, 2023 FordDoctor said:The sensor fits a little loose so it's normal.Ok. Thought it wouldn't fit loose but glad I know that's normal. Did you see my post #5?Reply Quote jokester00jokester00·Premium MemberJoined Feb 21, 2016 · 5,314 Posts#9 · Mar 23, 2023 Powerstrokin619 said:Also a few months back my scan tool brought up 2 codes that never appeared before which were, P0528 Visctronic drive fan VDF speed circuit malfunction and also a P0470 EBP sensor circuit malfunction. The EBP tubes were removed and cleaned completely no blockages and new motorcraft EBP sensor was installed. Now that I'm thinking about it, do these 2 above circuits run in the same loom as the problem I'm having now with my TFT sensor? 🤔Click to expand...I'm pretty sure they don't run through the same loom. They definitely don't come from the same PCM connector. i've attached diagrams for an '05 for both Dual and Single alternators (props to @djmaguire). -jokesterAttachmentsWiring Diagram - 2005 Powerstroke 6L - F-Series - Dual Alt - Full.pdf3.5 MBViews: 3Wiring Diagram - 2005 Powerstroke 6L - F-Series - Single Alt - Full (1).pdf3.5 MBViews: 2Romans 8:28Galatians 2:2005 F350 CCLB FX4 Lariat - 3 on the tree with a Stage 5 Spleen Splitter with 36" LED Honky-Tonk Cherry BombsLet he who is without oil cast the first rod - Compressions 18:0:1Reply Quote LikePowerstrokin619 Powerstrokin619·Registered2005 FORD POWERSTROKE 6.0Joined Sep 6, 2022 · 12 Posts Discussion Starter · #10 · Mar 23, 2023 jokester00 said:I'm pretty sure they don't run through the same loom. They definitely don't come from the same PCM connector. i've attached diagrams for an '05 for both Dual and Single alternators (props to @djmaguire). -jokester Awesome! Thanks for the one page layout of the wiring schematic Jokester! I have a single alt and looked it up and looks like it just loops through the TFT resistor and comes back on the signal wire which I'm assuming the PCM translates and knows how many degrees the TFT is by the resistance in the sensor and data. Appreciate the help. Thanks for taking the time to respond. 👍🥂🥂Like Reactions:jokester00Reply Quote Powerstrokin619 Powerstrokin619·Registered2005 FORD POWERSTROKE 6.0Joined Sep 6, 2022 · 12 Posts Discussion Starter · #11 · 55 m ago Today's Update: Hello guys and Happy Friday! Thanks for all you who have chimed in on this situation I'm dealing with . Worked on my truck today and did some electrical testing. When I removed the trans bulkhead connector, it had what appeared to be dielectric/electrical grease on it, is that normal from factory/Ford dealer. I owned this truck for 12 years now and I'm the only one who's worked on it since I have owned it. I will post pictures of connector. I also cleaned it with electrical spray cleaner both bulk head external and internal wiped clean and air compressor dried both before plugging back in to see if that fixed problem before continuing and it did not. I will list it below tests i ran: -PCM plugged in and probed at Trans Bulkhead and got 5v ref sig. -PCM #26 (TFT) to Trans Bulkhead #18 (TFT) got .1-.2 ohms. -PCM #30 (SigRtn) to Trans Bulkhead #22 (SigRtn) got .1-.2 ohms. -TFT Sensor Connect #1 to Internal Bulk Pin #18 got .1-.2 ohms -TFT Sensor Connect #2 to Internal Bulk Pin#22 got .1-.2 ohms. When doing the below (2) tests the Ford Manual states this: Measure the Resistance between TFT Sensor Pins# 18 and #22, and ground. I assumed that meant from one pin to ground and then the other pin to ground so that's what I did. Am i wrong? The next 2 tests are the ones I did following the above procedure. -Trans Internal Bulk #18 to Ground got O.L on meter. -Trans Internal Bulk #22 to Ground got O.L on meter. -TFT Sensor pin#1 to pin#2 got 24k at ambient temp correct as far as chart goes (Just put in new Motorcraft TFT sensor when all this first happened a few days ago that didn't fix it). what do you guys think the problem is judging by what I posted? Swap internal harness? Or can I fix the 2 TFT wires with new ones and heat shrink seal them both? Also when replacing the internal harness, I'm assuming you have to replace the gasket behind the trans valve body correct?

 

Thanks, My Wrangler is literally a dream-vehicle for me, and has been everything (and more) that I had hoped it would be. I chimed in on your thread now that I saw it.

 

They are sure badass!! Also, if you can. Send me a picture of the PCM you have, maybe I could use it? I will check out the other post.

 

The glory of actually having a garage that is big enough to organize (couldn't afford that when I was in the SD area) is that it was surprisingly easy to find when I just took out the trash.




I can't remember the EXACT issue this one had, but there was something about it where it worked but I had a MIL for a transmission configuration mismatch or something. It did work though. Would need to be taken to a dealer for a reflash with the correct config for your rig.

 

Lol. Must be nice to have a big garage! 🙌. You are absolutely right about SD....you can barely get a 8x8 shed with a porch light for less than $2500 a month rent. 🤣🤣. Thanks for the pic. I wonder if it will work for mine. Here is my PCM...looks like some of the numbers match up. 🙏🙏🙏

 

I responded to your private message, but yes that is the same PCM. Based on everything I remember - The 5C3A-12A650 is the PCM base part, and the three letters at the end relate to the configuration for series and option availability. It seems that all of that just flash-able.