help with 86
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Freshman User
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help with 86
Hi. I recently bought an 86 f150 with the 4.9 v6. The guy I bought it from changed the manual fuel pump right before I got it. The truck ran fine the first day, then started to act up. The truck is running very rough and smells rich. It acts like its missing so I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Still runs bad.*
Ive changed the oil and there was some fuel in it from the fuel pump going bad. The auto choke is fully open after a few minutes of running and the pcv valve has plenty of suction. So, they both seem to be operating correctly. Im not sure what else to check so any help would be great.
Ive changed the oil and there was some fuel in it from the fuel pump going bad. The auto choke is fully open after a few minutes of running and the pcv valve has plenty of suction. So, they both seem to be operating correctly. Im not sure what else to check so any help would be great.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Sheffield, AL
Gary's advice is right on and you should follow it. I will add something, though. The 4.9L really dislikes any vacuum leaks and at 28+ years old, the rubber and plastic lines get brittle and crack. Also, any vacuum ports [carburetor or manifold vacuum tree] which have been capped, often lose the cap. Check all these and replace as necessary.
Grab the air cleaner with both hands and see if you can gently rock it back and forth. If it moves, then the carburetor is likely loose. There are two nuts which hold the carburetor to the EGR adapter. If loose, there is a vacuum leak. These tend to vibrate loose. If they are tight, but the top half of the carburetor moves, then the 4 screws which hold the two halves of the carburetor together have loosened.
Finally, if the 13 or so bolts which secure the intake and exhaust manifold to the engine block are loose, there will be a vacuum leak.
Let us hear back from you. Good luck and welcome to the forum!
Grab the air cleaner with both hands and see if you can gently rock it back and forth. If it moves, then the carburetor is likely loose. There are two nuts which hold the carburetor to the EGR adapter. If loose, there is a vacuum leak. These tend to vibrate loose. If they are tight, but the top half of the carburetor moves, then the 4 screws which hold the two halves of the carburetor together have loosened.
Finally, if the 13 or so bolts which secure the intake and exhaust manifold to the engine block are loose, there will be a vacuum leak.
Let us hear back from you. Good luck and welcome to the forum!
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Thanks for the replies. Im gonna buy a obd1 scanner tonight and mess with it. It seems like it's dumping to much fuel. It has a very rich smell and the new plugs are covered with fuel. Thanks for the help, Jeremy.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
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From: Sheffield, AL
If anything goes wrong [bad sensor, loose wire, missing emission component, etc.] regarding the feedback system, then the computer places everything in a "safe" mode, so no damage occurs. That means that the timing is locked at the static timing [usually 10 degress BTDC] and the carburetor mixture solenoid swings to the rich side.
This equals poor performance and very high fuel consumption [8-10 mpg; ask me how I know?].
Our Moderator, ctubutis, shared this link with me, previously.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ry/OBD_I.shtml
This equals poor performance and very high fuel consumption [8-10 mpg; ask me how I know?].
Our Moderator, ctubutis, shared this link with me, previously.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ry/OBD_I.shtml
Last edited by 1986F150six; Jun 12, 2014 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Added the link.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Gary,
His 1986 should have an EEC-IV which AFAIK can be scanned by handheld scanners BUT the same procedures still need to be followed, e.g. KOEO, CM, KOER codes taken correctly, step on the brake pedal/turn the steering wheel when told to during the KOER test, etc.
To my knowledge, the EEC-III stuff was all pre-1984.
His 1986 should have an EEC-IV which AFAIK can be scanned by handheld scanners BUT the same procedures still need to be followed, e.g. KOEO, CM, KOER codes taken correctly, step on the brake pedal/turn the steering wheel when told to during the KOER test, etc.
To my knowledge, the EEC-III stuff was all pre-1984.
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So, I used a code reader and all I got was 14 and 18.
Code 14 is the ignition profile pickup (pip) circuit failure and code 18 is loss of tach input/idm circuit failure/spout circuit grounded.
Im gonna read over my haynes manual and see if I can make sense of these codes. Any other help is appreciated.
Code 14 is the ignition profile pickup (pip) circuit failure and code 18 is loss of tach input/idm circuit failure/spout circuit grounded.
Im gonna read over my haynes manual and see if I can make sense of these codes. Any other help is appreciated.
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I tested the pip out voltage on the module on the side of the distributor and got 0 volts ac. The manual said I should have around 5 volts ac. Any input would be great. Im getting desperate and think I may go ahead and replace the distributor and the module. Thanks in advance for any help
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Washington
I tested the pip out voltage on the module on the side of the distributor and got 0 volts ac. The manual said I should have around 5 volts ac. Any input would be great. Im getting desperate and think I may go ahead and replace the distributor and the module. Thanks in advance for any help
Elder User
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So, I used a code reader and all I got was 14 and 18.
Code 14 is the ignition profile pickup (pip) circuit failure and code 18 is loss of tach input/idm circuit failure/spout circuit grounded.
Im gonna read over my haynes manual and see if I can make sense of these codes. Any other help is appreciated.
Code 14 is the ignition profile pickup (pip) circuit failure and code 18 is loss of tach input/idm circuit failure/spout circuit grounded.
Im gonna read over my haynes manual and see if I can make sense of these codes. Any other help is appreciated.
Of course if you don't need to retain the TFI distributor for emission inspections reasons, a simple revert to a late 70's "duraspark" conversion may benefit you. Many people take that approach to solve the many issues.
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After messing with the truck all day I think im going with the duraspark conversion. It seems like everything will be pretty easy to find except the wiring harness. Anybody have one they wanna sell? Thanks for all the help.
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Look down the carb throat with a flashlight while it's running. If you see liquid fuel dripping into the engine, you have a carb problem(besides the other problems). Your float level might be too high and raw fuel is spilling into the engine. Just takes a minute to pull the aircleaner off and check it. Don't get caught in the fan or the belts.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
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As a suggestion
This read should be informative:
http://www.gofastforless.com/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ctors-diy.html