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Brake Pedal soft

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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 05:53 PM
  #16  
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tjc transport
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i made small cuts and cleaned it often.
since i only needed to clear 1/16 inch, i took half off the master and half off the booster.
1/32th of an inch can almost be done with rough sand paper. it is only 31 thousands of an inch
 
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 07:06 PM
  #17  
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TJC,

Thanks. I'll probably go that route if I decide against hydroboost. Do you have a brand of MC you prefer to run?

FWIW, Rock Auto has MCs for the 1990 F-SD for a bit over 20 bucks.

Roy
 
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #18  
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i did the conversion on those trucks 20+ years go and used NAPA masters.
all my aftermarket parts are from NAPA, i have a very good store a few miles away from me with people that actually know what they are doing. .
 
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 11:31 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
the master cylinder was 1/16 inch larger than the booster on my 88 to 91 trucks.
Will they fit 92 and up booster without modification?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Macs1964F100
Will they fit 92 and up booster without modification?
no idea. i only did the 88 to 91 trucks. i only has the 92 F-350 for 2 years before i sold it, and never messed with the brakes.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 10:18 PM
  #21  
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Spongy pedal generally is air in the lines, or a leaking seal in one of the two brake circuits. When the tech did the brakes, compressing the caliper may have pushed some u-cup wear material upstream causing one circuit to bleed down.

First step IMO would be to bleed. Second would be to reseal or replace the master cylinder and rebleed.

I must be missing something with the SD master thing here. Larger bore MC would exert less force on the brakes from the same pedal force wouldn't it? I mean larger bore means more force to move the same fluid, but less pedal travel to make it happen.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 04:49 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by totalloser

I must be missing something with the SD master thing here. Larger bore MC would exert less force on the brakes from the same pedal force wouldn't it? I mean larger bore means more force to move the same fluid, but less pedal travel to make it happen.
I think you are right. To get the same braking, one would have to push harder with the large bore MC. But, the large bore has the ability to move more fluid downstream...and, that seems to solve the problem with the correctly-working-but-still-soft OEM MC.

The OP probably has an actual fault, in addition to the stock design flaw.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 09:19 AM
  #23  
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a larger bore will move more fluid with the same amount of pressure, resulting in less pedal travel
 
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 12:34 PM
  #24  
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Sorry, but that ^ is partially incorrect. As a rule, a larger bore on the master end will move more fluid, but at a cost of more force required to provide the same fluid pressure.

Not to say it doesn't work better, but benefits from bore size are offset by drawbacks.

Is there a known design flaw with them? I've never had the old Ford one apart. I have seen design flaws though. For instance Suzuki Sidekicks use a master that has the seals on the housing instead of the piston, so even when brand new and perfect they have a tendency to leak down with gentle but consistent pedal pressure.

I just assumed they are conventional u-cups on sprung piston inside honed iron bore. Are they not?
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 02:30 PM
  #25  
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Need help with diagnosis

I'm a firemean. Went in to work Sat morning no problem.... Truck sat in lot for 24 hours. Leaving the station this morning brake pedal was soft and almost didn't stop truck before entering road from station. Checked brake fluid and vacuum pump, full and functioning...

What else do I need to check? There were no warnings of this
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 02:34 PM
  #26  
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No recent brake work, right?

No loss of fluid, right?

I would take a look at the rubber brake hoses (three of them) while applying the brakes to make sure they are not bulging. After that, I say internal master cylinder leak.

Roy
 
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 03:15 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by irhunter
No recent brake work, right?

Check

No loss of fluid, right?

Check

I would take a look at the rubber brake hoses (three of them) while applying the brakes to make sure they are not bulging. After that, I say internal master cylinder leak.

Roy
I'll inspect the hoses. Thanks...
 
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