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Scored a 6x10 trailer for cheap. Gonna use 12 1x6x10 treated lumber boards for the deck. What fastener is best suited for this?Trailer will be used for lawn mower and atvs.
you sure 1x6x10 is the lumber you want?
Also PT wood can react with steel, so maybe read up on it first. Could be better off with non-treated wood and applying your own stain or treatment.
x3 on the carriage bolts. Pressure treated is fine if used with the right fastener. Hot dipped galvanized will resist the corrosion. If the frame of the trailer is properly treated, it won't be an issue.
Hot dipped carriage bolts are what I used on my open trailer. Also, I would step up the 1 by to a 2by much much stronger. -Jason
2 by would probably be overkill on such a small trailer. It's only a 6x10 deck. Chances are it is not going to be a high capacity maybe 3000 pounds max weight. Most of the items that would go on would be of a lighter weight. All those 2 bys would be good for is take away from the trailers capacity. Now if it was a 2 axle car or equipment trailer, 2 bys is a no brainer. Hardware wise, I would say some kind of carriage bolts especially if there is a pre drilled holes in the frame.
I dunno, depending on how far apart the metal frame on the trailer is, those 1-by boards might flex an awful lot even with the weight of a man standing on them.
2-by lumber isn't going to add more than twenty or thirty pounds to the weight, and would be much more stable.
Around here, 1-by lumber is a specialty item anyway, so it's often no cheaper than 2-by sizes.
I was thinking the same way as 77-250. The span between each cross member sorta the same way you look at a house 16" OC or 24" OC most trailers are 24 or more. -Jason
Yep. 1" dimensional lumber isn't much if spans are 16"-24".
What are you attaching to? Lumber or steel frame? That will make an obvious difference.
If steel, I'd make sure you use locknuts if using carriage bolts.
After the lumber shrinks and swells due to humidity, etc, without locknuts, you'll find yourself without many nuts holding it together.
If wood subframe, I'd use a dacronized coated wood screw to secure.
Our 5x10 utility trailer's boards rotted out when I was doofus enough to leave a load of 'stuff' - leaves, branches, etc... on it for too long after I had painted it...
Don't paint it - you might stain it, but paint will cause more problems than help!
I left my treated boards as is...
So replaced the boards with 2x 8's like it came with...
the front and back of the trailer had 'slot's for the ends of the boards
(guess they put the boards in THEN welded on the ends when it was built)
so what I did was cut the 2x's long enough to slide into the slots... the boards had enough bend in them to force one end in then arc the board up to get the other end in
other than the ends,my trailer only had two cross braces so 1x's would not have been support enough.
then I just used screws into the existing holes in the frame to hold the middle down...
has been fine for years now - long as I don't leave leaves on it for months
Recently replaced the floor on a 16' utility, used 2x8x16' boards, pine is great if you can get it since its hard wood and strong (if not hem fir is good too). always make sure when you put boards in that the "grooves" on the end of the board are curving down the grooves will be the rings from the tree. having them where they are curving down the board will not warp upwards as likely. Best to not use PT if you dont have to. I sealed my trailer with lin seed oil. Its expensive, but keeps them looking good for a long time. I fully coated each board before mounting it to the trailer.
My trailer did not originally have holes in the frame to mount with carriage bolts, so i cut my own holes in the frame and mounted with carriage bolts and lock nuts. All bolts and nuts were galvanized.
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