When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hello after the construction of the engine and its on, I lost a little oil and seems to come out with a bit of coolant, which may be the cause and solution, it is very difficult to change the crankshaft oil seal with the engine in the truck ?
Front or Rear? Pull the dip stick and see if your oil level has changed and that the oil isn't milky. Please tell us you had your heads pressure checked when you did your build.
I'd try to pressure test the cooling system. Coolant and oil shouldn't come close to each other and I'd doubt that replacing either the front or the rear crankshaft seals will do anything for a antifreeze leak.
The loss is only oil now. The water was coming out of the water pump when I destroyed the ventilator (?) under the motor. Some water ran into the engine between the cap covering the power steering cover & now I'm losing oil from there."*
Then I'm understanding that it's the Front crankshaft seal right? You will have to support the engine in order to remove the balancing damper & front engine mount.
You MIGHT be able to remove the seal without taking the front timing chain cover off but you will need to be careful not to damage the timing chain housing or the crankshaft.
If you can't get the seal out without removing the timing chain cover then ALL the accessories will need to be removed off the front of the engine and the radiator will need to be drained. Then you can remove the timing chain cover and then you'll be able to remove the seal. It may be easier to remove the radiator and fan shroud and work through the front of the truck (through the Grill).
I'll copy the pages from the Manual and send them when I get to my regular computer.
Hope this helps.
Here are the pages from the Service Manual. VERY limited directions and I have never used any of the specific special tools they address in the directions. You will need a puller of some sort to remove to Balancing Damper.
Here are the pages from the Service Manual. VERY limited directions and I have never used any of the specific special tools they address in the directions. You will need a puller of some sort to remove to Balancing Damper.
I expressed myself badly. the loss on the back only. and only lost when running. amount does not lose much
Not a problem. Do you know if you have a rope seal or neoprene? If you have a rope seal you'll be better off pulling the engine because you'll need to take the crankshaft out. I would suggest you replace it with a quality neoprene seal. If you use a neoprene seal you need to remove the pin in the block that keeps the rope seal from spinning.
You MIGHT be able to remove the seal without taking the front timing chain cover off but you will need to be careful not to damage the timing chain housing or the crankshaft.
NOPE, Front seal is installed from the INSIDE of the front cover. One of the little nuances of the Y-Block.
I think it has neoprene seal, this could be changed without removing the engine??'s not 100% sure that the leak comes from there, you can come from somewhere else?
thanks
The Neoprene seals work good. My current 312" has a Silicone Rubber seal with a billet aluminum seal retainer that's working great.
Sometimes you don't have a choice tho. If the crank is worn you may have to use the rope. The Teflon Rope that Mummert sells is pretty good.
Originally Posted by capelo
I think it has neoprene seal, this could be changed without removing the engine??'s not 100% sure that the leak comes from there, you can come from somewhere else?
thanks
A lot of leaks in the rear main area turn out to be from the 'side seals'. They are a PITA for some. I don't use them at all. I just make sure the area is squeaky clean and use
and pressure it in after the retainer is in place. Fill in the retainer bolt holes after tightening and seal the two rear pan bolts/studs Holes go thru to the crankcase.
Not suggesting that you not to use them, just telling you what I do...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.