An automatic starter has a longer snout because the flexplate is thinner than a flywheel.
There is no 'gearing' in a conventional starter, only the Bendix throwing out.

My PMGR starter utilizes plastic planetary gears.
Not a lot of noise there....

If you can't get multiple starters to work, just install thread inserts to insure that it is held tight and straight.

 

thread inserts already installed per previous suggestion see I listen.

SO after spending way more time than I'd like doing research on this "problem" I came across something very interesting.

Advance Auto sells a replacement starter drive with a 9 tooth pinion.

NAPA sells a rebuilt starter (for automatic transmission) with a 10 tooth pinion.

Whilst counting the teeth on my starter it has a 10 tooth pinion.


Thoughts??? Could this be a potential problem? Why would a replacement have a 9 tooth and a rebuild have a 10 tooth.

 

Nine or ten tooth doesn't matter.
It is the depth and position that matter.
If you look at the drive -end on- you will see how the shaft is not centered in the piloting diameter.
This is what makes up for the different diameters of ring gears.

When I was having so many problems, Archion was able to pass along some information regarding various drive snouts with different throwout and gear diameter/tooth counts.

I'd imagine a new drive end casting would cost nearly as much as a new PMGR starter from DB or similar vendor.
Seems that Lester 3205 is the 5.0l automatic application.

 

I'm going to do just that. I'll risk the $60 for a new PMGR starter. I just pulled the starter and 2 years ago it was apparently "rebuilt". Looking at the communtator they didn't do squat. I am willing to bet they threw in a new gear drive and put it back in the truck.

I think my next attempt if a PMGR starter doesn't work is to just pull the flexplate and put in a known new one.

I checked all electrical connections and by a voltage test it all looks good. No voltage drops, etc.

I understood what you mean by the bolts which is why I put heli-coils in. See I listen ha-ha!


Thanks again. Hopefully I'll have better results to post... wish me luck.

 

Al - I'm not questioning your electrical abilities, but if you didn't do your testing under the load of the starter then the tests aren't valid. The reason is that your voltmeter pulls micro amps to test, meaning .000001 amp, but the starter pulls several hundred amps. So there is a huge difference in the current required to test vs run the starter. And a very small resistance will still show full voltage on the meter while the starter would work properly.

 

No Problem Gary. I completely understand I deal with electrical work on a daily...but with much higher voltages

SO long story short and I hope this comes in handy to anyone having a similar issue...bite the bullet and change the damn starter. I was going wait and buy a nice DB electrical starter off ebay/amazon but couldn't wait. Grabbed a rebuilt one from Advance Auto for $81. I ordered one for a '94 f-150 w/ 302. Found an online coupon code and ended up getting it for $51. I believe the unit has 1 year warranty too. I am beside myself how well the starter now works. I have 100% faith in my old ford once again.

What really grinds my gears (yes pun intended) is that I had this truck in a shop. A shop that performance tunes Mustangs. A shop that is OH-SO-FAMILIAR with Ford and Ford engines. Sadly I knew the guy but that's the last time i'll go there. I certainly got taken for $150. $51 and my problem was fixed. No shims, no nothing. Starter went right in. Wired it properly and the truck fired up beautifully on the first shot. I kinda wanna go keep starting and stopping it just to hear that sweet sound (but I wont...no sense in prematurely wearing the starter).

Anyhoo, thanks all for your help. I can't express how greatful I am. I'm not a complete noob with this stuff but sometimes I over-analyze the simple stuff. I just couldn't grasp the concept that my old starter was bad.

OK I am rambling yet again. Simple enough, THANKS YA'LL!!! If I could buy you all a beer (or beverage or your choice) I would. Cheers!

 

Al,
Thanks for the follow up.

I may take you up on the offer next time I'm down in Vineland.

 

Aww crap, I forgot to update my info but I recently moved to north western New Jersey. If you're passing through (which you most likely would to get to Vineland) I'll definitely follow through on that offer!

 

Al - Glad you got it going. And, the starter you got is a PMGR? I replaced one on a guy's 90's 302 and it was a PMGR so I assume yours is.

 

Yes Sir-eee! and the sound it makes is just absolutely delightful, especially in comparison to my old direct drive. I think I'm really going to have to swap in a gear reduction starter to my Powerstroke now. I'm still using the behemoth direct drive sucker on her.

SO now i've developed a "completely" new issue regarding my starter
I use quotations because I don't *think* I had this problem before with the old starter BUT it's not really easy to tell because I always had problems with it.

Anyway, Ive either developed a hot start condition thats either heat soak related or advanced timing related. Now before I get yelled at to reduce the timing I have to say I only advanced the timing 2* and that was many months ago. The truck ran great and I've never had a problem prior... My thoughts were to get a heat shield but I hate to just throw money at a heat shield if you think it's strictly a timing issue.

Thanks as always!

 

What are the symptoms?
Slow to crank when hot???

A big tin can (tomato or pineapple juice) makes an effective temporary heat shield and only costs a couple of bucks + a few minutes with snips & baling wire.
If it works a few times you have your diagnosis.