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I've been stuck and today I was pulling out two polls that where used for volley ball, not deep just in concrete and my tires would not move. Truck runs fine. I also have 4.56 gears because I pull a large trailer when going camping. I had it in 4 low, still wouldn't turn. Also at the dunes I got stuck pulling my trailer in once same thing. I would think the tries should spin and bury me if all was working right. What's your thought guys? It never gets hot, and pulls well on the highway. I have the scan gauge II and never saw a problem. Do I need after market tuning, or convertor or full rebuild. And who's a good choice for convertor and rebuilds.
Sorry, its 2004 6.0L CC LB 4x4.
No tires never spun. On the street I don't feel any slipping. Going in the sand towing my trailer it will get stuck if I stop and try to start again sometimes. I would think it would get hot if it was slipping but it doesn't. My trailer is a 40 foot custom to 43 foot long, tows great on highway. I would think it should pull down a house with those gears. Forgot to say I do have 35 tires, that's another reason I went to the low gears and LS Diff.
LAst transmission service, fresh transmission fluid is ok and not burnt? How much throttle before she moves normally, empty? Whats it like with starting out that trailer? I would start with oil and line external filter and then get codes. I know when tied to something very solid, it does take a fair bit of throttle to get going but it sounds like this is excessive. If you can move that big trailer I doubt much is wrong, but still sounds strange.
It's shaeffer trans fluid, JW puts it in all his builds or did. Boost is fine on the highway at 30 psi. This is my sons truck, but I was with him Saturday when this happen. Truck was cold being in the drive way all day, but not cold outside at all. If it was mine I'd do some more testing, I'll have to get with him. He takes good care of his stuff so I would think all should be well. Thanks for all your input guys, keep it coming if you can think of more. Just wondered if anybuddy else has seen this problem.
Do you have something besides the sg2 to check for codes. There is a x code to tell the number of DTC's stored but the sg itself is a horrible code reader.
It's shaeffer trans fluid, JW puts it in all his builds or did. Boost is fine on the highway at 30 psi. This is my sons truck, but I was with him Saturday when this happen. Truck was cold being in the drive way all day, but not cold outside at all. If it was mine I'd do some more testing, I'll have to get with him. He takes good care of his stuff so I would think all should be well. Thanks for all your input guys, keep it coming if you can think of more. Just wondered if anybuddy else has seen this problem.
If your running the stock tty head bolts, 30 psi boost is pushing them. 28 psi should be about the max. stock.
I think you really needs those codes. I especially think you need the MAP, Baro, EBP. We also need to cycle the VGT on the turbo and read it's codes. I suspect the turbo could be stuck open, thus eventually get over boosting, but takes a long time to spool up. I think you boost numbers are ok, but they are going to be slow if the VGT solenoid is stuck upen the turbo takes far longer to build boost, which would explain some of your issues, but still eventually have sufficient power to pull that beast of a trailer. So, SG2, DashBoss, Torque app are in order, so you are not just throwing parts.
It's shaeffer trans fluid, JW puts it in all his builds or did. Boost is fine on the highway at 30 psi. This is my sons truck, but I was with him Saturday when this happen. Truck was cold being in the drive way all day, but not cold outside at all. If it was mine I'd do some more testing, I'll have to get with him. He takes good care of his stuff so I would think all should be well. Thanks for all your input guys, keep it coming if you can think of more. Just wondered if anybuddy else has seen this problem.