Crew Cab Window Switch Bezel
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 20
From: Denton, TX
I had to machine an area on cast aluminum part and it stood out as very obvious. I used a welder's needle gun, one that had been used a while and the needles weren't too pointy, to roughen up the machined area. It took a little practice to work it enough, but not too much. But the end product looked almost perfect.
This may help give a machined aluminum piece some texture. I like a billet look for some things, interiors is not one. Just my opinion.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 1
I suspect that getting the texture correct will be a challenge in plastic or aluminum.
I had to machine an area on cast aluminum part and it stood out as very obvious. I used a welder's needle gun, one that had been used a while and the needles weren't too pointy, to roughen up the machined area. It took a little practice to work it enough, but not too much. But the end product looked almost perfect.
This may help give a machined aluminum piece some texture. I like a billet look for some things, interiors is not one. Just my opinion.
I had to machine an area on cast aluminum part and it stood out as very obvious. I used a welder's needle gun, one that had been used a while and the needles weren't too pointy, to roughen up the machined area. It took a little practice to work it enough, but not too much. But the end product looked almost perfect.
This may help give a machined aluminum piece some texture. I like a billet look for some things, interiors is not one. Just my opinion.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 2
From: Lynnwood Wa.
As far as finished aluminum piece I agree unless you had some other pieces to tie all together the door bezel would look our if place. A powder coat finish would give them a nice texture and last forever . An anodized finish would be smooth but still better than. The billet look.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
You also cannot powered coat plastic. It has to be some sort of metal. So the metal costs more to begin with then also add in the power coat.
Don't get me wrong, aluminum will never brake and that was my 1st idea, but cost is a big factor.
The cheapest aluminum bar stock I found is $24 for a 1" x3" x 12". So almost double the price to begin with. Then the bits cot cut aluminum are more expensive than ones to cut plastic, so that is more expensive. The time to cut aluminum i THINK is more. Then also factor in powder coat
Don't get me wrong, aluminum will never brake and that was my 1st idea, but cost is a big factor.
The cheapest aluminum bar stock I found is $24 for a 1" x3" x 12". So almost double the price to begin with. Then the bits cot cut aluminum are more expensive than ones to cut plastic, so that is more expensive. The time to cut aluminum i THINK is more. Then also factor in powder coat
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach/Wisconsin
Hey guys, just trying to work the eye a little and was looking through the thread. One thing to consider, if I missed it I'm sorry, but maybe take it to a 3d printer company. They literally could 3d scan it, then print out a new one. Just a thought.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 326
Likes: 15
From: near charlotte nc
just a thought to cut down on maching cost remember all that void in the back side dont actually need to be cut out mine is 1/2" thick with just switch holes and screw holes machined out the voids make the injected part cheaper is why they are there
( wish i could get the cad file from when mine was cut but have no idea who actually did it my buddy had it made before i bought the truck )
( wish i could get the cad file from when mine was cut but have no idea who actually did it my buddy had it made before i bought the truck )