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could this be whats making my check engine light come on?
You should pull the codes to see what is making the light come on. Here are some instructions of how to do it yourself and definitions for the codes: EEC IV Self Test hookup . You can leave out the volt meter/test light that they refer to and just watch the check engine light instead.
You should pull the codes to see what is making the light come on. Here are some instructions of how to do it yourself and definitions for the codes: EEC IV Self Test hookup . You can leave out the volt meter/test light that they refer to and just watch the check engine light instead.
X2......check the codes, they will most likely point you in the right direction.
could this be whats making my check engine light come on?
If the sensor isn't bad, Nope.
Map trucks have an "intake air temp sensor" and maf trucks have an "air intake temp sensor ". The name sounds similar, and the sensor is the same, but map has it in the intake, which yours should be, and maf trucks have it in the air box.
The sensor being hooked up (and good) it won't throw a code. It sampling above engine air temp, instead of intake air temp, will only make it run leaner/richer in certain conditions... If the sensor is good. If it's bad, then you'll get a code no matter where it's sitting.
You might want to find a lower intake that has that boss drilled and tapped, or drill and tap the manifold you have. Either way, you will have to remove the manifold. Just be ready to drill and tap some bolt holes at the ends of the heads.
I just had to swap manifolds for this very reason, and had to go so far as to heli-coil the front two manifold bolt holes. That process took longer than the rest of the job.
You may be alright with the sensor loose in the engine bay, but the computer will be more accurate with it in it's proper place.
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