When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Had to use my AAA tow service and not liking it. I have a 1967 F250 2wd and so far its been relatively a reliable vehicle since I put a new long motor in it, rebuilt the transmission and dumped a ton of money into the old farm truck originally/camper special. On the way into work yesterday the passenger side spindle failed and it chewed up the bearings and ruined the races in the drum. It's a one piece unit where the inner and outer bearing races are part of the drum. The pad appears to be a 12"x2.5" and I've got a replacement spindle being shipped. Deal lord, I hope it is the correct one and comes as advertised with no hang ups. I tried to order a new rotor and I am having zero luck. Darn auto parts stores keep trying to sell me one without the center of the hub section.
Can anyone help me by telling me what part number I am seeking? Or more directly what's the secret to finding where I can purchase the right one? I get so sick of part counter people at these box stores who shake their heads when their computer filtering doesn't produce results and have zero input how to solve. Any input would be helpful and very much appreciated.
Well, first take a deep breath and try to go with the flow. Ya gotta realize that parts monkeys are pretty much clueless on vintage steel. And owning an old rig comes with its shares of ups and downs.
Secondly, 67 was an oddball year for these trucks so its quirks are something ya gotta deal with. I'm a bit confused on your terminology... first it's a drum, then a rotor that is referenced, then brake "pads" versus "shoes" with the latter applicable to drums. Nonetheless, it sounds like its drums your talking about.
A few fellas with access to a Master Parts Catalog (MPC) will be along shortly... prolly Numberdummy or JEFFAFA... JEFF is the parts ghuru at an AZ dealership but is likely off the clock. Hang tight, be patient, and one of them fellas will be along shortly to help you out.
I have a 1967 F250 2wd and so far its been relatively a reliable vehicle since I put a new long motor in it, rebuilt the transmission and dumped a ton of money into the old farm truck originally/camper special.
On the way into work yesterday the passenger side spindle failed and it chewed up the bearings and ruined the races in the drum.
It's a one piece unit where the inner and outer bearing races are part of the drum. Not so...see parts catalog pic.
The shoes appear to be a 12" x 2.5" and I've got a replacement spindle being shipped. I tried to order a new rotor and I am having zero luck.
1967 F250 2WD: The front/rear drum brakes could be 12 1/8" x 2" or 12" x 2 1/2" as it depends on the GVWR.
If it's a Camper Special or has GVWR's of 7,500 or 8,100 lbs: 12" x 2 1/2."
Ford only sold the front drum with the hub, but auto parts stores sold the drum by itself.
The inner (1202) and outer (1217) wheel bearing races are pressed into the hub, not made as part of it.
Rotors are only used with disc brakes that no 1967 came with.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- C6TZ-1102-C .. Front Hub & Drum Assy / Obsolete ~ Two available NOS
C6TZ-3105-G .. Right (Passenger) Side Spindle-Stamped: C6TA-3107-D/ Obsolete
C6TZ-3106-F .. Left (Drivers) Side Spindle-Stamped: C6TA-3108-B / Obsolete
Applications: 1966/67 F250 2WD with 12" x 2 1/2" drum brakes.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
The bearings and races have a BIN (Bearing Industry Number) stamped on them. You can buy these parts at any auto parts store or bearing shop.
To make sure the parts are correct, give 'em the BIN's. I can list the Ford part numbers and the BIN's for the bearings and races if you wish.
Thanks for responding. Yes, Camper Special 12"X2.5" DRUMS and I do get tripped up all the time in the terminology of drums/shoes vs. pads/rotors.
The drums currently on it are all one piece and not as depicted in the schematic with the center pressed in. I'm scratching my head now and second guessing myself not having them with me. I remember smooth metal right around and no edges/lines to indicate multiple pieces of metal. When the shop opens up where the truck is I'll snap some pictures.
In the meanwhile, I'll share some other pics to keep you entertained... They inserted above this message but I think it will be okay.
I've never seen a one piece hub and drum. I just bought a '67 camper special but I haven't picked it up yet so I can't go look at it. Is there a disc brake conversion available or do the later year disc brake parts fit?
Darn, I guess I had made a huge mistake, not one piece and totally astonished to find out. Sorry, I had convinced myself of something else. Below is the pictures of the old drum. I can now hammer out the lugs to get at the hub.
Now my only question is where these assembled correctly after all these years? According to the schematic the hub bolts up on the inside not exterior as both sides on my truck is mounted. See pics below. Was this done for a reason? Will it fit on the shoes correctly the other way as it will move the drum out slightly? Why would you want to repack the bearings every time you wish to check the brakes? Think someone did this by mistake or to mount bigger tires?
I've been thinking about this, if I was to guess the drums were probably moved inside so the rims would have enough clearance. The originals were something like 16 1/2" tires and at some point they would have had to go to a newer rim as tires were no long available so they went to 16". That's my theory on it - maybe???
F250 2WD: After 1965, Ford only sold the hub and drum as an assembly, these parts could not be purchased individually from Ford. Auto parts stores sold the drum by itself, but not the hub.
Look at parts catalog pic in post 3: The drum is held in place by the studs that are pressed into the hub first .. then the drum is pressed onto the studs.
The studs have serrations on them that retain them to the hub and drum.
Pounding studs out with a hammer is not a good idea, the stud may come out unevenly, ruining the drum and/or the hub. Not pleasant!
The old studs should be pressed out (and NEVER used again!) and new studs pressed in. Any auto parts store machine shop can do this and will have new studs in stock.
I only see the bearing race the looks bad. Punch those out & install new inner & outer bearing & seal. Unless the race become loose and chewed up the hub bearing seat..
Orich
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
