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'03 Low Idle

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Old May 30, 2014 | 09:12 AM
  #1  
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'03 Low Idle

I picked up a used 03 Escape (3.0L V6) about 1.5 years ago, and so far I really like it. Late last summer though, I started noticing that when the engine gets hot, after driving for a while, the idle speed drops down real low. At first, I figured it was the IAC, so I replaced that. The idle is still low when hot, but its more steady overall. I've done some research on this, with potential causes being a collapsed PCV hose or a vacuum leak. I checked the PCV hose elbow and it doesn't appear to be leaking or collapsing. Also, I've used the carb cleaner trick, with all the vacuum lines that I see. I've yet to stumble across a vacuum leak. The last time I was under the hood, I could hear what sounded like a hissing sound, but I couldn't pinpoint it. The local Ford dealer wants $150 to diagnose the problem. I'd like to avoid that if possible. Are there specific things to look for that I haven't? Could that PCV hose collapse in areas I can't see, or is it usually in the elbow? Are there other vacuum lines that are usual suspects, that I can go back and check? Thanks for the help!
 
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Old May 30, 2014 | 09:45 AM
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Welcome to the site. I would look at the vacuum diagram on the radiator support or the underside of the hood. Follow each hose to check for leakage or breaks. You can use a piece of vacuum line as a poor mans stethescope. Hold one end to an ear, and move the other end around under the hood. It will help mask other noises. Check the power brake booster also as they can develop leaks.
Did you disconnect the battery after replacing the IAC? It would need to be disconnected for the computer to forget how the old IAC was responding, and learn how the new one works, thus fine tuning the idle speed.
tom
 
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Old May 30, 2014 | 10:51 AM
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Also, I've used the carb cleaner trick
That rarely, if ever works if done the 'old' way. The computer is too fast and you'll never detect the difference except by monitoring the computer data (short term fuel trims or absolute O2 sensor voltages).
 
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Old May 30, 2014 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by tomw
Welcome to the site. I would look at the vacuum diagram on the radiator support or the underside of the hood. Follow each hose to check for leakage or breaks. You can use a piece of vacuum line as a poor mans stethescope. Hold one end to an ear, and move the other end around under the hood. It will help mask other noises. Check the power brake booster also as they can develop leaks.
Did you disconnect the battery after replacing the IAC? It would need to be disconnected for the computer to forget how the old IAC was responding, and learn how the new one works, thus fine tuning the idle speed.
tom
I think I'll have to try snooping around with some vacuum line. I don't think I disconnected the battery. I'll try that when i get home today. Is there anything else I have to do to reset the computer?

Originally Posted by projectSHO89
That rarely, if ever works if done the 'old' way. The computer is too fast and you'll never detect the difference except by monitoring the computer data (short term fuel trims or absolute O2 sensor voltages).
Thanks for the heads up. I'm used to working on my 89 Jeep Wrangler. It's a much simpler setup, and the carb cleaner trick works great with it.
 
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Old May 30, 2014 | 12:54 PM
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From: Warren, MI
Originally Posted by wolfpacker02
Thanks for the heads up. I'm used to working on my 89 Jeep Wrangler. It's a much simpler setup, and the carb cleaner trick works great with it.
Worked great for me on a my '97 Ranger as well.
 
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