rear main help
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Verona nd
rear main help
alright so im my 67 ford its got a 352 in it with only 5000 miles it was rebuilt. so its sat since 97 and the rear main leaks. so i just replaced it and put on a new oil pan and oil pump to. so i go to start it for the first time and the its leaks out the back of the oil pan again. the pan its tight cause i check. just wonder how it could be the rear main again i tried to be gently i oiled the seal but made sure that the ends where clean. and used silicone one the rear main cover when i bolted it back up. do you guys got any ideas.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Verona nd
i uses the side seals i put a lil silicone on them to help hold them in place im prolly just gunna pull the motor and redue it. i replaced the rear main with the motor still in the pickup its was kind tough putting that rear main bearing cap on. i made sure the lips where facing towards the motor i just didnt think it would leak the first time i fired it up.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Have you checked the pcv to see if it's plugged or gunned up and building up pressure in the crankcase and pushing oil out the seal ? The front would leak also tho.
Those rear seals are the pits as it seem most guys can get it stopped for a short time,
then they start leaking again. My was good for about 5-8000 miles and started to leak a little.
But the intake & valve covers are also great for leaks too.
I also had my 4spd tranny input shaft leaking at one time, when you have many leaks hard to find them all.
Sorry I can't any more then as been posted already..
orich
orich
Those rear seals are the pits as it seem most guys can get it stopped for a short time,
then they start leaking again. My was good for about 5-8000 miles and started to leak a little.
But the intake & valve covers are also great for leaks too.
I also had my 4spd tranny input shaft leaking at one time, when you have many leaks hard to find them all.
Sorry I can't any more then as been posted already..
orich
orich
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
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From: Vancouver
I have done a few in the truck and it is very difficult to be sure the nails go in correctly. If you remove the engine to fix it you might want to delete the side seals and fill the area with silicone. It is impossible to get the areas clean and dry in the truck.
eric
eric
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
I've never had a rear main seal I installed leak. Here is what I was taught WAYYYY back in High School Auto Mechanics class.
When you install the rear main seal halves clock them a little. So this way where the upper and lower seal halves meet is not the same point where the block and the main cap meet.
When you install the rear main seal halves clock them a little. So this way where the upper and lower seal halves meet is not the same point where the block and the main cap meet.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Yea 3/8" as per the manual but the fe seal have not held for more then 10,000 then it start to drip for me. I'm maybe not be holding my tongue right! Or had it in the wrong place while installing it. Hmm I remember my girl friend would come by while putting a motor together at times. And left with a smile on her face back in my hot rod days of street racing.
orich
orich
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I've read where those side seals with the nail insert are suppose swell up when they make contact with oil. I've used both type of seals and both leak under 10,000 miles.
I've always turned the seal the oil rope one even and it a real pain in azz .
Even rtv the inner seem of the bearing saddle block and out edges
Then some a number of 1000s miles later drip,drip
orich
I've always turned the seal the oil rope one even and it a real pain in azz .
Even rtv the inner seem of the bearing saddle block and out edges
Then some a number of 1000s miles later drip,drip
orich
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Verona nd
so should i just fill them side seal areas up with silicone. i pulled the motor and the rear seals looked fine. the side seals where mushroomed at the top so thats probably the problem then. and since i have the motor out ands its only got 6000 miles on it any suggestions on a different cam. its a 67 ford 352
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
The Cam should be for the way you'll be using the truck for. Plus if it's a stick tranny then you will may be need to change the stall rpm converter. When changing to a bigger cam means needing to change other stuff. Then comes headers, hotter ign. system. Then you'll find that you'll need larger carb jets in the carb to get it to not run lean.
It's like adding custom wheels. Then you have change tires. Then you have to change lug nut & valve stems. .
Back to the rear main, I talked to a shop that builds fe about this and he said don't use the side nails. But does file down the side wedge side seals some and puts in a dab of rtv first then drives in the side seals that forces the rtv into any of the air spaces.
I have not tried doing it there way but have put in a dab of rtv onto the tip first of the side seals first. But even turning the seal 3/8 still end up leaking with in 10,000 miles.
Sorry, I don't have the secret to stopping it from leaking for long term use..
And have used both types of seal.
It's like adding custom wheels. Then you have change tires. Then you have to change lug nut & valve stems. .
Back to the rear main, I talked to a shop that builds fe about this and he said don't use the side nails. But does file down the side wedge side seals some and puts in a dab of rtv first then drives in the side seals that forces the rtv into any of the air spaces.
I have not tried doing it there way but have put in a dab of rtv onto the tip first of the side seals first. But even turning the seal 3/8 still end up leaking with in 10,000 miles.
Sorry, I don't have the secret to stopping it from leaking for long term use..
And have used both types of seal.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Verona nd
alright so i got my new rear main in and the side seals that came with the kit didnt have the nails. but im a little worried cause the side seal sticks out farther then the other side seal. the one sits fairly level with the bearing cap. the other sticks up a lil bit higher i tried use the end of an extenstion and tried tapping it in and it dont move so i think its in as far as it will go. but any ways b4 i put the motor in is there and easy to make sure the rear main wont leak right away. like could i fill it oil and just turn the crank by hand.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Did you put sealer in the groove before the sliding the side seal in?.
Not having those side pins will have a gap, may be you could have used the old ones.
I've read in some manuals where they said to test the seal was use compressed air.
from a air hand jet gun by placed up close to the inside sealing areas a long the whole main bearing boss sealing.
I have never tried doing this and never gave it much thought. May be if ya smoked would aid in seeing the puff of air movement while trying to do this.
So their you go for what ever that's worth..
Orich
Not having those side pins will have a gap, may be you could have used the old ones.
I've read in some manuals where they said to test the seal was use compressed air.
from a air hand jet gun by placed up close to the inside sealing areas a long the whole main bearing boss sealing.
I have never tried doing this and never gave it much thought. May be if ya smoked would aid in seeing the puff of air movement while trying to do this.
So their you go for what ever that's worth..
Orich
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Verona nd
one guy told me not to use any sealer and theses seals didnt come with nails and didnt have grooves for nails either. i put the rear main cap on and screwed the bolts in a bit. then i pushed the seals in as far as they can go then as i tigtened it i kept pushing the seals in till cap vbolts where snug.