Tuning help
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Tuning help
Ok. Usually smarter than this, but not used to these old Fords.
63 with 223 and three on the tree. Have had a chattering clutch problem especially at low speed. But if I am aggressive with the take off, it is much better. Had the clutch out and it looks good. Resurfaced the flywheel. Rebuilt the cab supports because they were gone and thought it might help. It helped a little. Mostly things just don't rattle around as bad.
Then the other day I had a thought and pulled the choke on a bit and the takeoff was better. So I ran the bottom metering screw out on the carb a turn, and that helped even with the choked off. Not a lot, but it was better. So now I am thinking the engine is just chugging at lower speeds. I have new cap and rotor and plugs and wires. no change. Checked the timing and dwell and both were ok.
I have cleaned a bunch of crud out of the carb due to a rusty tank.
Any suggesitons on the next thing to go after? I'm pretty sure at this point it is carb related.
Oh, I did run the valve lash on it as well, and it was fine.
63 with 223 and three on the tree. Have had a chattering clutch problem especially at low speed. But if I am aggressive with the take off, it is much better. Had the clutch out and it looks good. Resurfaced the flywheel. Rebuilt the cab supports because they were gone and thought it might help. It helped a little. Mostly things just don't rattle around as bad.
Then the other day I had a thought and pulled the choke on a bit and the takeoff was better. So I ran the bottom metering screw out on the carb a turn, and that helped even with the choked off. Not a lot, but it was better. So now I am thinking the engine is just chugging at lower speeds. I have new cap and rotor and plugs and wires. no change. Checked the timing and dwell and both were ok.
I have cleaned a bunch of crud out of the carb due to a rusty tank.
Any suggesitons on the next thing to go after? I'm pretty sure at this point it is carb related.
Oh, I did run the valve lash on it as well, and it was fine.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
You're on the right track, the better the engine runs the better the torque and off idle acceleration will be. This helps with the clutch. I think the choke thing is compensating for this, shouldn't have to do that. A new distributor is often quite the bang for the buck. Advance weights get worn and such.
Most stock timing figures and advance curves are much too conservative, tuning the engine with a vacuum gauge and timing light costs next to nothing and can really allow for a lot more advance even with today's gasoline, this will make the bottom end a lot snappier.
Most stock timing figures and advance curves are much too conservative, tuning the engine with a vacuum gauge and timing light costs next to nothing and can really allow for a lot more advance even with today's gasoline, this will make the bottom end a lot snappier.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
You're on the right track, the better the engine runs the better the torque and off idle acceleration will be. This helps with the clutch. I think the choke thing is compensating for this, shouldn't have to do that. A new distributor is often quite the bang for the buck. Advance weights get worn and such.
Most stock timing figures and advance curves are much too conservative, tuning the engine with a vacuum gauge and timing light costs next to nothing and can really allow for a lot more advance even with today's gasoline, this will make the bottom end a lot snappier.
Most stock timing figures and advance curves are much too conservative, tuning the engine with a vacuum gauge and timing light costs next to nothing and can really allow for a lot more advance even with today's gasoline, this will make the bottom end a lot snappier.
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Ahem....I don't exactly know but I think it is an Autolite.
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Take a look at this....
Classic Inlines Autolite Carb's
Classic Inlines Autolite Carb's
