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Still having a cooling problem

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Old Jun 15, 2014 | 10:05 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by CGMKCM
FYI, I noticed in your'e pictures that you are running a Dorman degas bottle. Some of us have had problems with that bottle sealing with the cap. I had the collapsed hose issue and coolant leaking. I went back to a Ford tank and cap. This thread discussed the problem.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-good-bad.html
Thanks for taking a look. Post #28, OE Ford cap replaced the Dorman one.

I ordered it with a new tank not knowing that the tank came with a new cap included, so after questions were asked about the cap I replaced it with the OE one.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 01:22 PM
  #62  
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I did see that post. In the thread I posted the Ford caps also leaked on the Dorman bottles so I would keep an eye on it.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 09:58 PM
  #63  
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I dont want to be the bearer of future bad news But.. those little pits on the back housing of the water pump on the motor is a sign of cavitation.

at some point someone did not keep up on the service of the coolant. you can not run just water in these trucks. some time in your future your going to have to change it.
one of those pit holes may open up and your coolant is going to go in the motor. Bad things will happen.. It is not uncommon on these trucks when the coolant is not kept up.

The motor will have to come out to replace it. for now run it and keep an eye on the coolant level. if you notice any coolant in your oil stop driving the truck immediatley.
im not saying it will happen very soon or anytime this year.. but please keep an eye on it..

You need elc coolant and distilled water.

That leading edge on the housing looks "chipped away" from cavitation. that can help cause air bubbles to run through the cooling system.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 10:50 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by sand_fiend
I dont want to be the bearer of future bad news But.. those little pits on the back housing of the water pump on the motor is a sign of cavitation.

at some point someone did not keep up on the service of the coolant. you can not run just water in these trucks. some time in your future your going to have to change it.
one of those pit holes may open up and your coolant is going to go in the motor. Bad things will happen.. It is not uncommon on these trucks when the coolant is not kept up.

The motor will have to come out to replace it. for now run it and keep an eye on the coolant level. if you notice any coolant in your oil stop driving the truck immediatley.
im not saying it will happen very soon or anytime this year.. but please keep an eye on it..

You need elc coolant and distilled water.

That leading edge on the housing looks "chipped away" from cavitation. that can help cause air bubbles to run through the cooling system.
If you could have only seen the condition of the truck when I bought it, the thing was terrible, its a miracle that it was running as well as it was when I bought it. It came with some really nasty looking green antifreeze and a whole lot of gritty looking junk in it. I flushed it out per the method listed on this site and went from there. This last time I dropped the coolant it came out clean after about two years of service so the procedure worked like a charm

It has and will continue to run distilled water and Peak Fleet Charge which it about the only thing I can find locally that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The simple fact of the matter is some things on this old beast are just not worth fixing any more due to the neglect by the previous owners. It will get filled up with distilled water and Fleet Charge to hopefully be the last time I mess with it. If things get any deeper I'm afraid the truck will go down the road. The condition of the body just doesn't warrant that deep of a repair.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 11:21 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by fbh31118
I know that the thermostat works, it was tested before I ever put it in. But, like most of this cooling system you really can't verify anything other than system pressure or by testing an individual part, so far as I've seen and read. Please correct me if I'm wrong.



I'm no expert on the 7.3 thermostats but I can't figure out how that longer one is supposed to fit where the shorter one was. Guys, is this a correct or updated thermostat?

Just curious, since you are now running just water so you can test things out, have you tried running without a thermostat to see if that solves your issue? Also, now that just plain water won't have the heat transfer capability as a 50/50 mix.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 07:09 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by spdmpo
I'm no expert on the 7.3 thermostats but I can't figure out how that longer one is supposed to fit where the shorter one was. Guys, is this a correct or updated thermostat?

Just curious, since you are now running just water so you can test things out, have you tried running without a thermostat to see if that solves your issue? Also, now that just plain water won't have the heat transfer capability as a 50/50 mix.
The truck is now running trouble free after changing out the water pump due to a leak an OE T-stat and a 50/50 mix of Fleet Charge. No more over heating!

What I don't understand is how the short t-stat ever worked at all. The truck never over heated when I bought even while towing at max capacity. The 'new'(the long one in the boiling water, part house brand), tested t-stat is the correct length but could not have been closing the by-pass. There is no doubt in my mind that the OE stat solved the problem.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 07:42 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by fbh31118
The truck is now running trouble free after changing out the water pump due to a leak an OE T-stat and a 50/50 mix of Fleet Charge. No more over heating!

What I don't understand is how the short t-stat ever worked at all. The truck never over heated when I bought even while towing at max capacity. The 'new'(the long one in the boiling water, part house brand), tested t-stat is the correct length but could not have been closing the by-pass. There is no doubt in my mind that the OE stat solved the problem.
Good deal - Glad you got to the bottom of it.... Not your wallet, the problem with the overheating. Thanks for updating!
 
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 01:24 PM
  #68  
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One things sure, you now have a complete new cooping system and should run a very long time.
 
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