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Sorry on the radiator. I've seen many that have replaced thermostat, then water pump more then once with the 7.3L and then cure the problem with the radiator, so I apologize for steering you wrong. Check the hose, then put a pressure gauge on the cooling system let it idle for a while and see what pressures you get. Hopefully its not something serious. Without going back and reading the whole thread I had thought you already changed the pump and thermostat with OEM. If you get 16lbs or more after idling for a while you have a real problem.
Hey man no worries. Had I been smart I would have thrown in the towel on this rust pile ages ago.
I know that the thermostat is working because the top hose becomes firm and gets hot, so at least some water is making it through. I might go buy a ford t-stat any ways, just to be sure. The ironic part about the t-stat is that the truck was running and cooling just fine when I bought it and it had a short stem t-stat in it. HOW COULD THAT BE?????
After my truck went into BAKE mode pulling the trailer back to the house I unhitched and tested a few other things and then went for a drive. The truck was not even getting the fluid in the tank warm, 100 degrees in the tank and the temp gage was reading normal operating temp.
Sorry about the misdirection on my part too, fbh31118. Based on my experience, I would've bet a lot of money the radiator was your problem. Good luck to you in finding out the real problem. I hope whatever it is turns out to be easy and relatively cheap....
I hope whatever it is turns out to be easy and relatively cheap....
I think it's already gone way past that stage, unfortunately.
I think I'd restart this by swapping out the thermostat again with a 195 or 203 from a Ford dealer. Also, I know the fan clutch was mentioned, but I don't see where it was swapped out already or not. Did that get done?
I think it's already gone way past that stage, unfortunately.
I think I'd restart this by swapping out the thermostat again with a 195 or 203 from a Ford dealer. Also, I know the fan clutch was mentioned, but I don't see where it was swapped out already or not. Did that get done?
Yup, new fan clutch installed, planned on picking up another t-stat from Ford tomorrow. This thing has already blown a hole through my lack luster budget, mys well spend some more. Can't afford to shoot the damn thing.
By what method, test, tool or gauge do you verify water pump flow?
This picture shows the coolant return line coming from the heater core to the top of the pump. In my mind this proves very little other than there is some flow coming from the water pump. This by no means RULES OUT a water pump (or any other problem for that matter) in my mind. Just more information.
In case anyone is wondering I'm just running water till I get this figured out. Got tired of wasting money on coolant just to dump it out again and start over.
Yup, new fan clutch installed, planned on picking up another t-stat from Ford tomorrow. This thing has already blown a hole through my lack luster budget, mys well spend some more. Can't afford to shoot the damn thing.
By what method, test, tool or gauge do you verify water pump flow?
This picture shows the coolant return line coming from the heater core to the top of the pump. In my mind this proves very little other than there is some flow coming from the water pump. This by no means RULES OUT a water pump (or any other problem for that matter) in my mind. Just more information.
In case anyone is wondering I'm just running water till I get this figured out. Got tired of wasting money on coolant just to dump it out again and start over.
I think your plan to change the t/stat is a good one. I don't know of any flow test for the water pump, but that doesn't mean none exists. I suppose you could use long pieces of hose from the t/stat outlet and pump inlet and route them into a large, low pan of some sort full of water and see how much flow you get when the t/stat opens. Seems like a real pain to go through all that though. There's also the possibility of getting burned in the process . . .
I know that the thermostat works, it was tested before I ever put it in. But, like most of this cooling system you really can't verify anything other than system pressure or by testing an individual part, so far as I've seen and read. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I bet a new water pump will solve the cooling problem you're experiencing.
I've seen it before.
Thank You for the vote of confidence, I could use it.
This is honestly the last thing that I am capable of changing as a shade tree mechanic with no garage, to speak of. Sure hope that this takes care of the issue for good.
While I'm always one to think horses, not zebras, when hearing hoofbeats, this issue is weird enough that you might look for some oddball causes while the pump is out. Thinks like, did a rag get left somewhere and block flow?
While I'm always one to think horses, not zebras, when hearing hoofbeats, this issue is weird enough that you might look for some oddball causes while the pump is out. Thinks like, did a rag get left somewhere and block flow?
Good luck!
Mark
The new pump just showed up today, so some time this week we'll find out some more information. Your right about this thing being weird and what the reason is, is beyond me (obviously). I know pumps can go bad but I've never had an occasion were it had caused over heating from some thing other than all the coolant leaking out of the pump or the pump shaft breaking.
There is no doubt in my mind that this truck received little to no attention by the owner previous so to find things like this doesn't really surprise me. If this pump and Ford T-stat doesn't fix the issue my wife and I can kiss our anniversary to Wisconsin good bye.
The final installment of 'Still having a cooling problem'
Finally got a chance to pull the pump out to see whats going on. The pump and its impeller were intact with the exception of the cover plate on the pump had warped which lead to the impeller being worn down. It didn't look bad enough to cause an overheating problem so I'm guessing that the thermostat had something to do with it. I know the t-stat opened but I'm wondering if it some how was not closing the bypass as some one had mentioned about the short t-stats in these pumps. After putting about 80 miles on it last night I'm pretty confident that every thing is working together again as it should, although, I'm going to buy a new fan and install later.
Huge thanks to all who kept up with my thread and helped me figure this thing out!
FYI, I noticed in your'e pictures that you are running a Dorman degas bottle. Some of us have had problems with that bottle sealing with the cap. I had the collapsed hose issue and coolant leaking. I went back to a Ford tank and cap. This thread discussed the problem.
