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Old May 27, 2015 | 09:55 AM
  #46  
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So this might be a good idea and this is on olives replacement.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 12:21 PM
  #47  
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Well as I've been driving it found some leaks at injector caps, but I'm going to replace the rings as I see leaks, a pain but easy fix. And its nice getting 14-16 mpg, after those pesky leaks and tuning I should be able to hit 18 maybe 20mpg, I added diesel clean white bottle which helps as well.... Boosts octane level I think. Now that I replaced starter and had to do the new plugs due to my failing recognition of cranking too many times, it starts beautifully.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2015 | 10:09 PM
  #48  
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Well got the v orings coming to fix the one injector cap leak ... However I have bubbles coming around the injector at the base. I also deleted the air pump to the brakes belt due to the alternator belt rubbing on the bolt holding it in place. Found out looking at the belt and old alternator the pully is larger. So I'm going to see if I can transfer the one to the other by bolt hopefully. If its pressed I'll have to figure something out. Loosing coolant now. But I don't see any leaks when its sitting there. Nor do I see white smoke or any indication of a blown head gasket. But little by little big red is going to become a beast and reliable once again. Got front rotors and pads. Waiting for the master cylinder and brake booster. I'll need new air pump due to old one breaking at the hose. Despite the hiccups and recent days off work due to failed starter, I still think its the best investment made yet.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 07:02 PM
  #49  
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Well got the brake master cylinder with the booster. Napa already has it put together. 130 plus 30 core charge not bad. Anyway I got the socket for the wheel lug nuts as well. Hopefully this coming weekend I'll put it in.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 10:16 PM
  #50  
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Well I got 16.9 mpg at fillup but on way home really crappy mpg to about 10 mpg. Linked under hood. Clamps were not holding one fuel line on the passenger side, think it needs to be longer and use hose clamps instead of clips. Still waiting for my orings as well.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 06:30 PM
  #51  
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Well got the brakes done but found out to do the front rotors I needed to get a tool that I didn't have for it to get the hub off. Anyways passenger side was nil and somehow the driver side brakes had 50% left. Tomorrow I'm replacing the rotors. Interesting experience for the first time. Also I replaced the master cylinder and brake booster. The brake bleeder tool from Napa cheap but it worked better than I thought it would. Calipers and brake lines with the rear brakes are in line just have to wait for next months allowance for it in the budget. Funny thing tho is I looked at the diagram for the f350 for the front hub but it looks like its from a bronco, don't know but it'll be interesting to dig into it. Either way I'm still working on my fuel economy numbers can't tell if its 15 or closer to 20. Po said he got 20. So we will see.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 08:10 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by jamusfam
Well got the brakes done but found out to do the front rotors I needed to get a tool that I didn't have for it to get the hub off. Anyways passenger side was nil and somehow the driver side brakes had 50% left. Tomorrow I'm replacing the rotors. Interesting experience for the first time. Also I replaced the master cylinder and brake booster. The brake bleeder tool from Napa cheap but it worked better than I thought it would. Calipers and brake lines with the rear brakes are in line just have to wait for next months allowance for it in the budget. Funny thing tho is I looked at the diagram for the f350 for the front hub but it looks like its from a bronco, don't know but it'll be interesting to dig into it. Either way I'm still working on my fuel economy numbers can't tell if its 15 or closer to 20. Po said he got 20. So we will see.
You might get a bfh (5lb should work) 5 or 6 flat washers. and a new lug nut. Use one of the old nuts to screw on the threads of the stud to hit so you don't mess up the stud. Then when you are putting it back together use that same nut and put the washers behind it to suck the studs in. I have found that nut will be f'ed up cosmetically after this.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 08:24 PM
  #53  
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Nice tip, hopefully all I need is the two rings. And slide out easy.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 08:05 AM
  #54  
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Well I think im going to use the rims off the 75 F250, and put Humvee tires on it. I'm getting 16 mpg now and think I might go the zf5 route. 3" exhaust. Not sure if I want a stage 1 turbo or same price stage 2.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 12:14 PM
  #55  
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I have 3" on all my trucks and I wish I would have done 4" for the extra flow
 
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 09:27 PM
  #56  
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Well got tow work and wondered why fuel gauge needle moved 2 as fast as normal. IP line was laeking. So I had to make shift another box end tool to get in the tight spot to tighten the line up. Also found a used IP and lines for 50 bucks. I can use that as a core or rebuild it. Guy said it came off a running 88 6.9 and was shelved for a couple years. Definitely dirty but I'm interested in the hard lines just incase. Anyone who's reading the post thinking of getting an IDI, I will say I love my IDI better than all the others I've had. Its fun and going to be a great build. Found out ford no longer supplies the GP and looking for the anchor plate for the rear axle for the brakes. Ford no longer carries the part either.
 
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