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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 10:17 PM
  #31  
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OK got the truck home but the water pump went out 1 and a half miles before I got home. Its OK working on replacing the pump upper lower hose and thermostat. I did get green coolant and sca as well.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 09:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
Not necessarily, safety switch disabled in mine and the cruise works.

well depending on how it was disabled The way I Know if your stuck some where you take the two same color wires and splice them together. that will disable the cruise because it will think the clutch is in the other time.


If you run a wire from the key straight to the starter relay then it would work, or Hairy if talking about his 93. that cruise control unit reads resistance for signals and he must have a wire that failed in a good way making the cruise think the clutch is engaged.


also if the wires going to the trans are ripped off it wont work.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 06:15 PM
  #33  
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Well ... Its taking just a wee bit longer than thought. Phew finally got the clutch fan off water pump and man the fins fell off in the water pump. The bearing was trashed. So bad I could park a barge under how much play there was. Lol. Anyway. All I need to do now is clean the parts and put it back together.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 03:17 PM
  #34  
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Got big red put together and drove it last night. Now to do airpump and fuel lines. I've looked at posts but does anyone know how to rig up the two tanks and a third? And a three way switch?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 05:22 PM
  #35  
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I just got a 38 gallon tank from lmc to replace the rear tank. to get more fuel.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 11:43 AM
  #36  
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Well I'm going to get that one too. But the way its rigged up the po put a third tank 18 gallons BTW in the bed of the truck. But I figured that I could maximize the amount of fuel by using all three. The two that are under the bed have been disconnected. The po was going to hook them back up with new hose but never got the chance. But yeah 18 gallon a 38 gallon and a 18 original tank. Sure a lot to fill but I can go for miles and miles.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 11:50 AM
  #37  
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Also I did the oil change was looking under the engine and the chassis and its clean except expected leaked. One from valve cover one is coming from heater plug. And one from back of engine somewhere. But otherwise clean. Foot pedals look hardly used so I'm guessing it truly is only 90k. All tell tail signs are their. I had to pull the glove box due to smoldering..... Found out it was leaves and crap from over the years. Thank god I was quick about it and nothing was damaged.
 
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Old May 17, 2015 | 06:36 PM
  #38  
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Well I forgot my username lol but anyway good to get it back and add to this post. I've replaced the alternator batteries and voltage regulator. Big red barely gets out of its own way slowly that is. Top speed 50 55 down hill with wind. And blows heavy smoke on start and release the gas it'll smoke a little. But good news I got the db2 80 cc IP pump from r&d and injectors. New glow plugs from ford and the injector install kit from orielies. Hopefully this will fix it. Also looking into replacing the CDR valve.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 08:52 PM
  #39  
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Well funny thing happened this morning the truck didn't want to seem to fire up, so checking connections finding the electronic fuel pump was loose wire fixed it and it ran. I can go 50-55, but still struggles at it. Lol but thought id share.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 10:46 PM
  #40  
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check your fuel pressure, you need 6psi at the ip or they wont run right. I have pressure regulators and gauges on all my trucks
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 10:48 PM
  #41  
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Where's a good place to get one
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 10:15 PM
  #42  
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You can get summit and order a kit or I just bought the regulators and pumps,
This is the kit or one like it on my 88. the gauge is extra.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cm...tcombocontents
Its kind of loud but it will feed a 150cc ip. I just have a tee after the fuel filter one side has a mechanical gauge and the other goes to the ip.
I have a carter pump on my 93 that isn't as loud. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4601hp/overview/
 
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Old May 24, 2015 | 06:12 PM
  #43  
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Well got everything done and replaced until I hit the last injector. Well put pb blaster on it and let it soak. And still it doesn't wanna bust loose. Breaker bar and all. Someone said try heat but idk its the injector. Any ideas would be good.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 05:57 PM
  #44  
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Well got new injectors pump and lines redone with the glow plugs.... All I can say is its a world of difference. But now to dial it in cuz its rolling too much coal on the guys behind me. Still not a race car but it'll throw you back into your seat. And no longer white smoke of death. It was a pain in the arch... But that stupid last injector pissed me off so when I got a 1/2 inch 1 inch deep socket for removal and a new breaker bar no budge so I used a impact gun on it. I was carefully rocking it but it spun right away. And the line from the back of the pump to filter was modified for its protection... aka cut it and find hose for in between. Worked out well. And for the love of God we must never not use antiseize on the plugs and injectors. What a pita.... Also the idea of the new olives I should shoot... Bought them and needed to replace one well that went as far as an hr wasted. So I made one from an old rubber line and fit like a charm. These things I share so hopefully someone who is in the same boat as myself can have a answer to this problem. Anyway r&d for injectors and pump. Napa and oriellies for sockets and tools and ford for the glow plugs.
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 09:54 AM
  #45  
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7.3 fuel system upgrade complete
 
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