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Weird question I know.
Let me explain. I went to start my van one day after just driving it around town and it would not start. After some time of trying to figure it out it was suggested that the ground was bad. So, I attached a new negative cable to the battery and then directly to the frame. I did remove the bad lead from the battery. Van started right up. Now, I get a Check engine light all the time and I have problems with the battery getting a good recharge. I know that the ground going to the frame is not where it should go.
I live in an apartment complex and they "frown" upon people working on their vehicles in their parking lots. That being said, I am not able to pop the hood and spend the time tracing where the negative is supposed to go to.
If anyone could please give me an idea, pictures or directions to where the connection point is, I would appreciate it.
We're going to want to know model/year to help. I just checked my Chilton manual for 1989 to 1996 and it only addresses the battery end of the cables. I think the neg. does go to the frame though. (See the pro advisers below).
I always ground to the engine first, then engine to frame, then engine to body. also check for other grounds that may have been left unconnected. Find the computer. make sure the computer ground is connected (usually directly to battery). Check to be sure all ground connections are clean and tight. Your vehicle may be slightly different (for instance body may be grounded directly to battery), but this should get you in the right direction. good luck,...jack
On my e350 7.3idi with dual batteries it first grounds to chassis at the passager upper front fender and the other one is at the engine down front on the passenger side it also goes from the engine to the frame there it is easier to fix it from the front underside look for a black thick wire that goes into a bolt at the underside, mine was rotted inside with corrosion due to the inferior factory clamping, so I had to undo the whole thing, cut until I got to some good copper clamped on a new eye and gas soldered it so it won't corrode ever again.
from the inside it is clamped to the frame and hold in place wth nuts it's a tight fit so a small wrench and a small socket set is the best at loosen the cables without ruining the clamps that hold's the cable in place as an emergency you could go on youtube and search for big 3 upgrade and get help from someone who has electrical know how and see if that helps it, I made my shifting smooth before and after I changed the atf fluid In my e4od I could tace some pics if you have the same engine
Usually (always?) the negative will go to a clean, unpainted point directly on the engine block, bolt at the cylinder head, or alternator bracket on the block. This is the main ground point. The starter of course is grounded to the engine block. Another cable should be connected from engine block to the firewall, and a third from engine block to a clean connection on the frame.
Wierd stuff happens when these connections are marginal or missing, because the current will find a way, even if through things that were never designed to conduct electricity - gearboxes, bearings, accelerator linkage, driveshafts. Very important these grounds are in top condition.
Yes but ford had the main ground connection at only 1 bolt that threads directly into the engine/casting and from that to the frame of the car, due to the fact that the body is bolted to the frame with rubber pices that separate the body from the frame hence the 3 different grounds or as a safety so you got good grounds anywhere on the car ? Maybe some ford expert's could clarify this better than I do ??
Yes but ford had the main ground connection at only 1 bolt that threads directly into the engine/casting and from that to the frame of the car, due to the fact that the body is bolted to the frame with rubber pices that separate the body from the frame hence the 3 different grounds or as a safety so you got good grounds anywhere on the car ? Maybe some ford expert's could clarify this better than I do ??
Is it a gasser or a diesel ?? Min is a diesel btw.. could be differences do to that, not shure.. But have you tried youtubing ford e150 and checked for any vids that looks like your engine just a tip, is there anyone IN here who might have a picture of the electrical system or similar systems I know it exist in here somwhere but cant seem to find it right know..
From the NEG post of the battery you have two wires, one large and one small.
The small one goes to the radiator support right in front of the battery.
The large one goes to the engine block right near the oil filter.
The frame is not grounded and is as said above insulated from the body and engine.
Tanks for the explanation and help, as i said earlier its a bit different then, from a e150 and a e350 customline 7.3idi then. Thats why I asked, and much appreciated reply subford !!
Last edited by polarbear87; May 26, 2014 at 07:21 PM.
Reason: typo due to auto correct!
No it is not grounded from the factory and it is not just the 92 on as when I parted out the 89 E150 van the other day its frame was not grounded either.
But make sure you have a good body ground from the NEG post to the body as it is used for all of the items that need a ground inside the van or truck.
The 92 on F-series truck do ground their frame with a clamp in the middle of the NEG battery cable but that grounded frame is only used if you pull a trailer or it does not have a read bumper and then it is used for the license plate lamp. There is also radio push on braid static grounds that run between the body and the frame but they are not meant to carry current for any devices.
It will cause a lot of problems if some one replaces the NEG battery cable and only runs it to the frame.
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