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04 6.0 multiple symptoms

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Old May 24, 2014 | 11:08 PM
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04 6.0 multiple symptoms

I have a 2004 6.0 that I bought in Feb of this year & like I said it is my first truck without spark plugs. I live in OK now so the temp is erratic. The truck has been to Marquette MI for 1 week during COLD temps.
Here are the past symptoms and what I have done
1) code p2262 the week I bought it I took it on a trip to TX. It had a loss of power and just seemed sluggish. I had it read at Autozone & it went away and ran fine before I got home.
2) A month or so later same symptoms and code this time they would both go away and come back every few days
3) Total loss of power/unresponsive pedal taking off from a stop light. I pulled over and it died finally. I let it sit a few minutes and it started and the RPM's went way up when I pushed the pedal but it was REAL sluggish then all the sudden it kicked in and was the truck I loved. I changed both fuel filters OEM and the oil & filter Rotella T 15-40 & OEM filter. I also added a coolant filter from PMM somewhere in there which is the only aftermarket that Im aware of.
Fast forward
It was very sluggish and loss of power/unresponsive pedal again on the way to work (hour drive) I pulled over and let it idle for a bit which was sounding very off it would drop to 400-500 RPM's then back up to 1200 then back down to 800. I babied it on to work about 15 minutes down the road. I had to move it about 20 minutes later for people to work where she was parked and it did not start the first try then no response from the pedal so I inched it across out of the way. When I left after 8 hours it started ok then started all the same stuff so I stopped in a parking lot where it started surging with my foot on the brake yet no power from my pedal and then died. I sat for about 20-30 minutes reading on the problems and got out and wiggled the wires to the ICP and it started and drove great. I try to leave for work this morning and it runs fine for about 30-40 minutes then starts surging while in drive doing 70 MPH and when I came to a stop sign it was sluggish with white smoke this time. I pull over and let it rest a few minutes and try to drive and white smoke comes out the entire time I push the pedal and loss of power again. I let it rest more and unplug the ICP and she starts right up and drives fine again with no surging, loss of power or smoke.
I cleaned the MAP sensor last night which was not clogged or dirty.
No oil in the ICP connector. No water in the oil that I see yet it seems to be losing it since I put the coolant filter on. Batteries read 12.54 they read 12.07 running.
I did get a 2285 code during this whole mess also.
MAP 14.4
FICM running 49.5 koeo 48.5
IPR @655 RPM (idle) 23.0 @ 2500 RPM 34.3
ICP @655 RPM 581 @ 2500 RPM 987

Im still setting up the gauge to retrieve more

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
 

Last edited by bustedassranch; May 24, 2014 at 11:12 PM. Reason: added info
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Old May 25, 2014 | 07:09 AM
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HI bustedassranch,

I'm gonna move this one down to the 6.0L Powerstroke forum, the folks down there will have a better time helping you out with this one.
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bustedassranch
I have a 2004 6.0 that I bought in Feb of this year & like I said it is my first truck without spark plugs. I live in OK now so the temp is erratic. The truck has been to Marquette MI for 1 week during COLD temps.
Here are the past symptoms and what I have done
1) code p2262 the week I bought it I took it on a trip to TX. It had a loss of power and just seemed sluggish. I had it read at Autozone & it went away and ran fine before I got home.
2) A month or so later same symptoms and code this time they would both go away and come back every few days
3) Total loss of power/unresponsive pedal taking off from a stop light. I pulled over and it died finally. I let it sit a few minutes and it started and the RPM's went way up when I pushed the pedal but it was REAL sluggish then all the sudden it kicked in and was the truck I loved. I changed both fuel filters OEM and the oil & filter Rotella T 15-40 & OEM filter. I also added a coolant filter from PMM somewhere in there which is the only aftermarket that Im aware of.
Fast forward
It was very sluggish and loss of power/unresponsive pedal again on the way to work (hour drive) I pulled over and let it idle for a bit which was sounding very off it would drop to 400-500 RPM's then back up to 1200 then back down to 800. I babied it on to work about 15 minutes down the road. I had to move it about 20 minutes later for people to work where she was parked and it did not start the first try then no response from the pedal so I inched it across out of the way. When I left after 8 hours it started ok then started all the same stuff so I stopped in a parking lot where it started surging with my foot on the brake yet no power from my pedal and then died. I sat for about 20-30 minutes reading on the problems and got out and wiggled the wires to the ICP and it started and drove great. I try to leave for work this morning and it runs fine for about 30-40 minutes then starts surging while in drive doing 70 MPH and when I came to a stop sign it was sluggish with white smoke this time. I pull over and let it rest a few minutes and try to drive and white smoke comes out the entire time I push the pedal and loss of power again. I let it rest more and unplug the ICP and she starts right up and drives fine again with no surging, loss of power or smoke.
I cleaned the MAP sensor last night which was not clogged or dirty.
No oil in the ICP connector. No water in the oil that I see yet it seems to be losing it since I put the coolant filter on. Batteries read 12.54 they read 12.07 running.
I did get a 2285 code during this whole mess also.
MAP 14.4
FICM running 49.5 koeo 48.5
IPR @655 RPM (idle) 23.0 @ 2500 RPM 34.3
ICP @655 RPM 581 @ 2500 RPM 987

Im still setting up the gauge to retrieve more

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
What are the ICPV's at KOEO? Also the system volts at 12.07 running is way low if that measurement was taken after the glow plugs shut off, system voltage should be close to 14 as measured at the battery. I would have the batteries load tested separately ( completely disconnected from one another ).
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 07:57 AM
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You mentioned cleaning the MAP sensor, did you actually mean the EBP sensor?

The EBP needs to be clean of soot along with the EBP tubing.

Check the MAP hose for cracking and the intake fitting for blockage.

Remove the EGR valve and clean along with inspect the intake bore for moisture... if it's wet = blown EGR cooler.

Josh
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 09:22 AM
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Thank you for the replies. I took her for a spin this morning and she is running great so this problem has a mind of its own. KOEO ICP volts 0.23 It was up to 3.78 when I romped on it driving down the road.
I cleaned the MAP inlet on the valve cover with a coat hanger. It was moist, but not clogged. It is steady @ 14.4 idling at will get up in the 20's when I put my foot into it going down the road. I am going now to load test the batteries & grab another hose for the MAP even though this one looks good. I will clean the EBP tonight or in the morning..My girlfriend has my day pretty much booked today :/
Thanks again for the help!
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 10:46 AM
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Sounds like it may be a connection issue with the icp pigtail.

Sent from my leash using IB AutoGroup
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 11:19 AM
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Follow the DTC

P2262 – Fault sets if Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) does not exceed 5kPaG.


Post Baro map ebp (What Year) MAF (if you have one)
 
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Old May 29, 2014 | 08:16 PM
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Sorry it took me a few days to get back. Thanks for the responses so far. Here is what I have done & what the truck has/has not done.
Replaced the MAP hose
Cleaned the EBP tube (that thing is a pain to get off)
Had AutoZone test the batteries> They said both were good.
I cleared the codes and they have not come back on yet

The truck is still running real sluggish. Just acts like the mice are not warmed up. I have not taken it far from home since it has died on me the last 2 times. I have had it up to temp and ran around town.

Blade the truck is a 2004 MAP is staying about 14.3-14.5 EBP and ICP are kinda all over the place. When it was acting up today I took a few pics to remember what everything was doing. EBP was 43.1 ICP was 3604 IPR 74.2 and ICPv was 3.47..Those were on the screen when it happened. I was at close to 3000 RPM's and doing about 35-40 with no power..If that makes sense. I have not programmed the BARO yet & not sure what a MAF is..Im guessing Mass Air Flow, but not sure if I have one.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 05:40 PM
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Well here we go with more info. The truck has been running ok for the last couple of days (just around town) This morning I went out to start it and it took a long time to fire off my MAP pressure was 2.8 the parts store had 1 with a lifetime so I put it on that solved the MAP issuue. I guess my question is do yall think that could have been a problem all along? It has not acted up since I have had the scan gauge. ICP does go to 1100-1200 while cranking now..I dont remember that before.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 10:43 PM
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Could have Been MAP all along we will see fingers crossed

IDK how much affect a bad MAP would have on Startup maybe it mess with fueling it should have started usually just ran bad at that point


To Check the Base line of the Pressure sensors you will compare ALL 3 (BARO, MAP, EBP) @ KOEO First they should be the SAME!!!!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 11:00 PM
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IDK about MAF you may or maynot have one

You have EBP so I assume No MAF

MAF sensor would be right after the Air Filter with 5-6 wires instead of 2 IIRC for just IAT#1

Yes MAF=Mass Air Flow
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
IDK about MAF you may or maynot have one

You have EBP so I assume No MAF

MAF sensor would be right after the Air Filter with 5-6 wires instead of 2 IIRC for just IAT#1

Yes MAF=Mass Air Flow
Only the 2005 model year trucks had, for the most part, only the IAT sensor and no MAF sensor.

All 2003, 2004, 2006 and 2007 F series engines had MAF sensors.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 08:05 PM
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Well I have to drop 10 & punt. This morning it would not start Batteries were dead lol. I had the parts store test them and the Alt. The Alt is shot. I will grab another this weekend and post an update :/
Thanks again for the help!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 10:42 PM
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Try and get as high amp alternator you can

and make sure them cables are Good & Clean


Low power is a Killer and Could have been your issue as well time will tell


A Godd alternator should Push 14+ volts on your Volts gauge
 
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 10:46 PM
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His FICM Numbers in the First Post Suggest his Alternator worked OK at that Time


IDK what you did for Load test But could a wire got Loose??

maybe the alt got fried somehow
 
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