9inch center section swap help!
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Chardon Ohio
9inch center section swap help!
Hello everyone, I got a new center section, well not new but new to me, for my 78 f150 with a 9inch rear and I am just making sure I got this right. All I need to do to swap the center section is pull the axles, disconnect from the driveshaft, unbolt and remove current center section, and than just put a new seal around the new center section and slide the axles back together. I have never done this before but I know the bearing and everything are good in the axles because it just got rebuilt about 6 months ago. I'm just making sure that all I need to do it replace the center section gasket and fill with gear oil and should be good to go? Also if anyone knows the proper gear oil I should use it would be greatly appreciated. I do know that it is the same spline as well. Sorry if this is a repeat post I have checked here and google and youtube and no help, so if anyone can help it would be much appreciated
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Hello everyone, I got a new center section, well not new but new to me, for my 78 f150 with a 9inch rear and I am just making sure I got this right. All I need to do to swap the center section is pull the axles, disconnect from the driveshaft, unbolt and remove current center section, and than just put a new seal around the new center section and slide the axles back together. I have never done this before but I know the bearing and everything are good in the axles because it just got rebuilt about 6 months ago. I'm just making sure that all I need to do it replace the center section gasket and fill with gear oil and should be good to go? Also if anyone knows the proper gear oil I should use it would be greatly appreciated. I do know that it is the same spline as well. Sorry if this is a repeat post I have checked here and google and youtube and no help, so if anyone can help it would be much appreciated
80W90 mineral based gear lube. Add a 4oz dose of friction modifier if with Traction Lok.
TIPS:
- When applying RTV, let it out-gas for about 10 minutes before assembly. A little goes a long way. If it oozes out, then ya used too much. About a 1/8-inch bead is all it takes...
- Apply an RTV bead around each stud on the housing.
- Before disassembly, mark the driveshaft for proper phasing when reinstalling. Personally, I leave it splined into the trans or coupling shaft and simply swing and secure it out of the way.
- Remember to disengage the parking brake or else the drums won't come off.
- Work safely and CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS FORE AND AFT.
- Be patient and do it methodically.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 235
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Most of the time you can use the drum as a slide hammer. Pull the drum off flip it around backward. Start three lug nuts in a triangle pattern then yank the drum out the 1" or so til it hits the nuts. After a few bumps the axle is usually out.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Only thing I can add is there is a copper sealing washer under each nut that will give you problems pulling it out until they are removed. New ones can be purchased at most parts stores.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
After removing the nuts than I smack the end of the axle with a sledge
hammer or splitting maul. This pops the tapered locks out that were
under the nuts and loosens the axle. I always figured the raised part of
the end of the axle was built for this. Don't hit the studs if it has them.
Some are studs and some have bolts.
hammer or splitting maul. This pops the tapered locks out that were
under the nuts and loosens the axle. I always figured the raised part of
the end of the axle was built for this. Don't hit the studs if it has them.
Some are studs and some have bolts.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 685
Likes: 2
After working on the 9" from my '61 I learned a trick for getting stuck axle shafts out. Bolt on a wheel that you don't care about and whack on it with a BFH till it slides out. Before putting in the third member it would be a good idea to check the gear mesh to make sure it has been set properly. And of course make sure the spline count is the same.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Chardon Ohio
Okay, so after 5 hours of beating in ohio rusted parts I got the axles removed but am now stuck again! Where the driveshaft meets the u joint and the yoke meets the u joint has bad corrosion and I can not get it off. I was thinking maybe use a pry bar. Also does the truck need to be in neutral to remove the driveshaft? I have it on jack stands but I am still confused by it. But to remove the driveshaft all I need to do it pop the driveshaft out of the yoke and it should just come right out?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Chardon Ohio
Okay thank you very much! Will try it when I get home from work!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Chardon Ohio
So after pulling the axle I ran into two Problems, one I still can't get the center section off it is really on their good, any one have any idea in what to do? And also the axles of my truck do not fit into the new center section, it is too small and just turns freely, I am getting the axles that came with the new center section tomorrow but any
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Chardon Ohio
So after pulling the axle I ran into two Problems, one I still can't get the center section off it is really on their good, any one have any idea in what to do? And also the axles of my truck do not fit into the new center section, it is too small and just turns freely, I am getting the axles that came with the new center section tomorrow but any ideas on if they will still slide right into my origional housing? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 241
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From: Canada
That's normal for a carrier that has been in place for a long time. You can drive a screwdriver or thin chisel between the carrier and housing to break it loose. Sometimes it helps to knock the studs into the housing. Quite often the copper washers (if used) hang on the studs. If you do this, you will need to pull the studs back into the housing.
I drill and tap the carrier for a couple of jack screws to use if the carrier ever has to be removed again. That makes the job much easier next time.
I drill and tap the carrier for a couple of jack screws to use if the carrier ever has to be removed again. That makes the job much easier next time.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Chardon Ohio
So if the diameter of the axles are to small does that mean they are a different spline count? I put both axles in the center section and they just turn freely? Sorry I am new at this