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Maybe I'm getting a little senile in my old age. I let the brake fluid get waaay to low and now I have no pedal. I filled it up again and pumped it some more, but nothing so far. Unless this is partially typical of new calipers (pads & rotors too).
Just go ahead and bleed them as usual? - haven't done that yet. What is the order of bleeding them. Well, I'll search for that - see what I can find.
Hi, I discovered something cool. Starbucks has these cheap, clear cups for water. They have lines on the side that they use for writing. I have found these cups ro be perfect for bleeding brakes. The lids have the cutout to insert the hose from the wheel cylinder and the lines let me know how much brake fluid I have bled through the system. That keeps me from re-introducing air into the system from letting the master cylinder run dry. I hope this helps.
i have been gravity bleeding brakes for close to 40 years now without any problems at all.
Not sure what you mean by gravity bleeding...well, I do understand what gravity means :O)
If my reservoir did let in some air, does anything special have to be done, or just keep bleeding and filling the reservoir - make sure it doesn't get that low again. How big a container of brake fluid should I get to get those calipers and the lines filled?
Very cool Lance, thx - but probably won't get a chance to do that this time around, but will pick up some of those cups. Starbucks is very close by. Never been in one yet. Not much of a coffee drinker.
Thx Bob - grateful for the help. My Redhead steering gear is still on my bench!
Gotta get a P/S Pump.
Be checking the rear brakes soon. Wondering why that big hub on the rear wheels? Have never looked at 'em yet. Lots to do. Also transmission is going into Reverse a little hard sometimes. Maybe I should put that in a New Thread.
I would be worried about gravity bleeding not pushing all the air out of the lines, but Tom knows what he's talking about.
That being said, the order is only one piece of the puzzle. This is how I was taught to bleed brakes (at a brake shop).
With the valve closed:
- pump the brakes up three times
- have your partner release the bleeder while you hold the pedal down
- close the valve when the pedal hits the floor
- release the pedal
- repeat
I would be worried about gravity bleeding not pushing all the air out of the lines, but Tom knows what he's talking about.
That being said, the order is only one piece of the puzzle. This is how I was taught to bleed brakes (at a brake shop).
With the valve closed:
- pump the brakes up three times
- have your partner release the bleeder while you hold the pedal down
- close the valve when the pedal hits the floor
- release the pedal
- repeat
same way i was taught to do them Andy.
then one day i had no help on the farm and had to get creative after blowing a brake line and not having anyone to pump the brakes.
i put the new line on and by the time i got it hooked up i had fluid coming out of it. so i opened the bleeder and then went looking for a hose and jar to make a catch can, and by the time i got it all together i had a steady drip of fluid out of the bleeder. i tightened it up and topped off the master. 2 days later i finally got some help and went to do the pump and open trick only to realize the gravity did all the work for me.
gravity bleeding is opening the bleeder and letting gravity do all the work. it takes longer than using a pressure pot or pumping the brakes and opening the bleeder, but it gets all the air out of the system.
Gravity bleeding works great if you have the time. Fill the reservoir open the bleeder (don't just crack it) and go get a soda or have a smoke keep an eye on it when the fluid comes out solid you are good. Close it up test the petal and repeat at the other corners.
same way i was taught to do them Andy.
then one day i had no help on the farm and had to get creative after blowing a brake line and not having anyone to pump the brakes.
i put the new line on and by the time i got it hooked up i had fluid coming out of it. so i opened the bleeder and then went looking for a hose and jar to make a catch can, and by the time i got it all together i had a steady drip of fluid out of the bleeder. i tightened it up and topped off the master. 2 days later i finally got some help and went to do the pump and open trick only to realize the gravity did all the work for me.
gravity bleeding is opening the bleeder and letting gravity do all the work. it takes longer than using a pressure pot or pumping the brakes and opening the bleeder, but it gets all the air out of the system.
This will work even if I already let air get in at the master cylinder? About how long would it take ya think? Work better if truck is on a slightly sloped driveway - nose on the higher end?
This will work even if I already let air get in at the master cylinder? About how long would it take ya think? Work better if truck is on a slightly sloped driveway - nose on the higher end?
It will work as well with a system with some air and some fluid in the lines as well as a system with all air. The problem with a partially full system is knowing when all the air is out. If you let air in at the master cylinder you need to let all of the old fluid run out before that air will be able to get out. If your old fluid is dirty enough you can tell you're good when clean fluid is coming out.
It will work as well with a system with some air and some fluid in the lines as well as a system with all air. The problem with a partially full system is knowing when all the air is out. If you let air in at the master cylinder you need to let all of the old fluid run out before that air will be able to get out. If your old fluid is dirty enough you can tell you're good when clean fluid is coming out.
what bob said.
i normally just let it flow until clean fluid comes out because it has been in there for a long time. i have no problem letting a quart of brake fluid leak out of the system, it just assures the system has new clean fluid in it.
i have had lines bleed out in 3 minutes, others have taken close to a half hour.
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