No start!!!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 2
From: Vacaville, CA
Then I can move on from there I guess. I also just acquired an IPR pigtail from Ford and could power up the IPR to close it for testing, in case its an issue in the wiring to IPR
AGAIN, THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL YOUR HELP! THE BROTHERHOOD IS STRONG HERE!...
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 593
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
10-4, I'm still getting 000psi when cranking, voltage jumps to .24-.26 when cranking, the .22 reading is just with KOEO. As soon as I can get the line pulled from the head, I guess that will show if the pump is producing anything at all, confirming it is mechanically operational.
Then I can move on from there I guess. I also just acquired an IPR pigtail from Ford and could power up the IPR to close it for testing, in case its an issue in the wiring to IPR
AGAIN, THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL YOUR HELP! THE BROTHERHOOD IS STRONG HERE!...
Then I can move on from there I guess. I also just acquired an IPR pigtail from Ford and could power up the IPR to close it for testing, in case its an issue in the wiring to IPR
AGAIN, THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL YOUR HELP! THE BROTHERHOOD IS STRONG HERE!...
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 2
From: Vacaville, CA
Update: Pump came out and when bench tested it is creating 0 suction or pressure. Joey (Terminator Eng.) is working to get one built to swap out tomorrow. Hopefully back on the road again soon!!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 2
From: Vacaville, CA
So got the new pump in, Joey said the old one may have broke some of the piston springs, wont know till tear down.
Still can't get it to fire! ICP pressure comes up to around 600+ when cranking, but seems a little slow to get there. When cranking stops, it bleeds back down to zero (I'm assuming this is normal, ICP open at this point?)
Im probably a little over anxious with it right now, one good crank and the voltage is down below 10.5... guess I'll just let the battery charger do its magic and try later. Crossing my fingers that this is it.
So ICP voltage rises, duty cycle rises, pressure rises..
Only code its throwing now is p0340 cam sensor circuit, I was reading that his may be normal when in a no start condition? I cant see this cps being bad, it was working great when I swapped it out. connector looks good, no burnt pins or chaffed wires.
Still can't get it to fire! ICP pressure comes up to around 600+ when cranking, but seems a little slow to get there. When cranking stops, it bleeds back down to zero (I'm assuming this is normal, ICP open at this point?)
Im probably a little over anxious with it right now, one good crank and the voltage is down below 10.5... guess I'll just let the battery charger do its magic and try later. Crossing my fingers that this is it.
So ICP voltage rises, duty cycle rises, pressure rises..
Only code its throwing now is p0340 cam sensor circuit, I was reading that his may be normal when in a no start condition? I cant see this cps being bad, it was working great when I swapped it out. connector looks good, no burnt pins or chaffed wires.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 2
From: Vacaville, CA
Still no rpm when cranking... I thought the 2002-2003 don't show rpm until key returns to acc position after start.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 593
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
I believe the scan tool should show RPM, even though the tach may not. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Given the code you have, it would probably be a good idea to pull the connector off the cam position sensor and check the wiring with a multimeter. The center pin on the harness connector should have +5 VDC with the key on. If you hold the connector so the locking clip is down, the pin on the left should have continuity to ground. The pin on the right should have neither continuity to ground, nor any voltage to it. If it does, there's a short somewhere.
If all of that is fine, the right pin should have continuity to pin #21 on the PCM connector. That one may be a little difficult to test, and if you do check it, it would probably be best to pull the ground cables off the batteries first.
Given the code you have, it would probably be a good idea to pull the connector off the cam position sensor and check the wiring with a multimeter. The center pin on the harness connector should have +5 VDC with the key on. If you hold the connector so the locking clip is down, the pin on the left should have continuity to ground. The pin on the right should have neither continuity to ground, nor any voltage to it. If it does, there's a short somewhere.
If all of that is fine, the right pin should have continuity to pin #21 on the PCM connector. That one may be a little difficult to test, and if you do check it, it would probably be best to pull the ground cables off the batteries first.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 2
From: Vacaville, CA
I believe the scan tool should show RPM, even though the tach may not. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Given the code you have, it would probably be a good idea to pull the connector off the cam position sensor and check the wiring with a multimeter. The center pin on the harness connector should have +5 VDC with the key on. If you hold the connector so the locking clip is down, the pin on the left should have continuity to ground. The pin on the right should have neither continuity to ground, nor any voltage to it. If it does, there's a short somewhere.
If all of that is fine, the right pin should have continuity to pin #21 on the PCM connector. That one may be a little difficult to test, and if you do check it, it would probably be best to pull the ground cables off the batteries first.
Given the code you have, it would probably be a good idea to pull the connector off the cam position sensor and check the wiring with a multimeter. The center pin on the harness connector should have +5 VDC with the key on. If you hold the connector so the locking clip is down, the pin on the left should have continuity to ground. The pin on the right should have neither continuity to ground, nor any voltage to it. If it does, there's a short somewhere.
If all of that is fine, the right pin should have continuity to pin #21 on the PCM connector. That one may be a little difficult to test, and if you do check it, it would probably be best to pull the ground cables off the batteries first.
Thanks!!! I'll check that now... I'd rep ya again, but I'm in jail. You guys have all been great help.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 2
From: Vacaville, CA
The rig is alive!!!! Ok, final prognosis... HPOP failure (gotta give a huge thanks to Joey at Terminator Eng.! Can't find a better guy this side of the Mississippi!). The CPS problem turned out to be a swollen oring on it, not allowing it to fully seat, who'd a thunk it!
Everything looks good, gotta run the air out of it tomorrow. First thing, need to pull the FRX and reseat the spring (obviously got pinched), reading 95psi!
Again, thank you all!!! Pika, Rich, David, Al, cjgray, Chet...
David and Chet, hope to see you guys in Morgan Hill!
Everything looks good, gotta run the air out of it tomorrow. First thing, need to pull the FRX and reseat the spring (obviously got pinched), reading 95psi!
Again, thank you all!!! Pika, Rich, David, Al, cjgray, Chet...
David and Chet, hope to see you guys in Morgan Hill!