When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
NOTE. The B7A12106A cap took 7MM plug wires. Ford came out with the Blue D5AZ12106A cap because of the electronic ignition's 8 MM plug wires. 8MM won't fit iN the B7A12106A.
NOTE. The B7A12106A cap took 7MM plug wires. Ford came out with the Blue D5AZ12106A cap because of the electronic ignition's 8 MM plug wires. 8MM won't fit iN the B7A12106A.
Hmm, well that I didn't know.
But, B7A-12106-A was used in 1974 with or without DuraSpark, which means that 1975/76 not only used a different cap, but different plug wires as well.
Google says the 1261 should fit your truck.
If it's a regular miss, though, it is most likely further down the ignition line than the distributor. It is more likely a bad cap, wire, or spark plug if a compression test shows them all to be even.
I have installed Pertronix ignitors before with stock coils, I just go back under the dash and tap into the pink wire as close as I can get to the ignition plug. That wire is a resistor, and it takes the whole length from the plug to the firewall to drop the voltage to 7v. Close to the ignition plug it's not much of a drop at all.
Installed the 1261 module today. Talk about an idiot. Got it wired. It cranked and cranked but no start. Seems you need the rotor as well. Such a dunce. Started right up. No change in performance as most predicted. But I was too tired to start further troubleshooting:
1. Clean out fuel lines;
2. check fuel filter;
3. check fuel flow;
4. compression tests.
Installed the 1261 module today. Talk about an idiot. Got it wired. It cranked and cranked but no start. Seems you need the rotor as well. Such a dunce. Started right up. No change in performance as most predicted. But I was too tired to start further troubleshooting:
1. Clean out fuel lines;
2. check fuel filter;
3. check fuel flow;
4. compression tests.
Note. If the 1st (dry) compression test comes back with low numbers then perform a wet compression test to see if the numbers jump up. A couple of healthy squirts of engine oil in the spark plug hole just before you check that cylinder will temporarily seal the rings. If the low numbers jump the problem is in the rings. If they stay low the problem is in the heads.
I was reading the Ford Service Manual when I came across a reference to the dry vs. wet approach. Additionally, it stated I needed the truck warmed up prior to conducting the tests.
I was reading the Ford Service Manual when I came across a reference to the dry vs. wet approach. Additionally, it stated I needed the truck warmed up prior to conducting the tests.
And all spark plugs removed, run test at least twice, take highest reading, charge battery up between tests, etc. the idea is a standard, accurate test. In my old Motors manual, compression testing is on page 2. They point out if the engine is trashed there's no reason to investigate further or throw parts at it.
For all that, if an engine will run, a vacuum gage is a heck of a lot easier and good compression can be inferred pretty well from a normal reading.