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Does my PCM need re tinned?

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Old May 15, 2014 | 12:00 AM
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Does my PCM need re tinned?

Was running some wires for guages and GPR LED and decided to pull my PCM to check the code for when I get a Chip in the future. Looks like it has had a chip at some point and wondered about the contacts. They look a little worn to me.





What do you guys think? Thanks.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 07:30 AM
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I would try the chip first. It looks decent, not great, to me. If it doesn't seat, then get it re-tinned.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 09:05 AM
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You don't want exposed copper - it can corrode and turn green with time/humidity. I would tin the connector, then solder-wick it to keep it flat and even.

 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 11:02 AM
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Thanks guys. Can you tell me who does the re-tinning. I'm not that good at soldering and don't wanna mess it up.

I have a DP chip in one truck and really like it but am considering getting the hydra for this one. Just to try something else.

I'm gonna have to put injectors in as soon as I have the money and probably will have the PCM flashed and tinned at the same time. Who would you suggest. Thanks
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 11:09 AM
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Its not hard to do at all! Seriously I've done three of them and messing with the PCM scares me to death.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 12:02 PM
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If you are going to have it flashed, have them re-tin it as well. I am pretty sure Jody used to do it.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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Get online and find some local ham radio operators. One of them would probably do it just because he's never done it before and it sounds like fun. Those guys know electronics and love to tinker with stuff.
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 12:50 PM
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Well I decided to try and do this myself. Any advice on the best procedure? I haven't done much soldering, actually none on electronics. I know just enough to be dangerous..

I also found a loose chip on my overhead console I'm gonna try to re - solder.

What is the best solder / flux to use. ECT. Thanks guys..
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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Depending on the chip it may be a surface mount that needs to be re-flowed. Does the chip have legs does it just have metal showing on the sides?
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 05:22 PM
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Just metal on the side. One side is still attached.
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 06:22 PM
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Take a picture of it if you can it sounds like a surface mount that needs to be reflowed. Can be done with iron but easier with a reflow heat gun.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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As for solder get the thinnest flux core electrical solder you can find.
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 08:25 AM
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I go to Radio Shack and get the tiny-gauge flux core silver solder. Get solder wick while you're there. This need a solder iron or pencil, not a big, honkin' gun (the gun gets too hot). The solder iron should be about 35 watt, but 45 watt is about max for an iron. Don't forget to get little tin of flux to dipping the iron tip, this keep the tip clean, then it's just a matter of wiping the tip on a damp sponge.

Heat the contacts, not the solder. When the contact is warm, just touching the solder to the contact will make the solder melt and spread out: This is what makes a good solder joint.
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 08:57 AM
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I agree for the re-tinning to use a good iron I was referring to a re-flow gun for the overhead console chip because the way he described it it sound like one of the surface mount chips. I use small tips 3mm-6mm on my reflow gun for alot of my surface mount components.

This is the scale I work on. This device was a prototype that is now in Yoplait yogurt factories used to monitor the capping presses for signs of early wear and maintenance 3"L x 1"W.

 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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Thanks Rich, I'll run over to radio shack today before work or tomorrow on my day off and see if they have that stuff. I have a weller soldering iron but i'm not sure on the wattage. I'll have to look.



Here's A pic Bigbee.
 
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