7.3 cutting out
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
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From: Medford Oregon
Where did you purchase the CPS? Local auto part store ones usually don't work and can have you running around in circles. Must purchase from Ford or IH.
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2014
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I got it from advance auto ford wants 170$ for one I didnt want to spend that kind of cash and it not b it
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: western SD
Find a different Ford dealer, you should be able top pick one up for $25-$30. You want to use Motorcraft or International CPS. Parts house ones are known to be bad out of the box.
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2014
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Well its not the idm it worked fine on my buddys truck
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,818
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From: Avilla, IN
We need the code. It keep saying the tach moved a little. How much? Does it sound like its turning over slow or is it normal?
Try unplugging the ICP sensor and see if it starts. It probably won't but it can't hurt to try.
Try unplugging the ICP sensor and see if it starts. It probably won't but it can't hurt to try.
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Freshman User
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the tach goes up to about 200 rpm and it cranks fine just no start
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,735
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From: TX
When my truck did this a few months back, exact same as you described. Cutting out and dying. Finally just died and would not restart, luckily in my driveway. Turned out to be the pigtail off my IPR shorting out. So check the wires or the IPR itself.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,334
Likes: 587
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
I agree with wezol5484; it could be IPR related. Make sure the solenoid and spacer are on the IPR, and that the nut that holds them is tight, also.
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Freshman User
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Is there anyway to see if im getting power to the ipr pigtail I have another ipr I got from a cat mechanic at my work idk if it will fit tho could I just plug it up and c if it will start
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
You can check the solenoid coil with a multimeter. It should read between 5 and 20 ohms. If you can get a spare pigtail, you can put 12 volts to the solenoid long enough to see if it will start; positive on the red wire, negative on the yellow with red tracer wire. I don't think I'd install an IPR on my truck without knowing for sure it was the right one and would fit.
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You can check the solenoid coil with a multimeter. It should read between 5 and 20 ohms. If you can get a spare pigtail, you can put 12 volts to the solenoid long enough to see if it will start; positive on the red wire, negative on the yellow with red tracer wire. I don't think I'd install an IPR on my truck without knowing for sure it was the right one and would fit.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,334
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Clay at Riffraff carries them: IPR / VGT Soleniod Pigtail Connector Repair Kit 94-07 - Riffraff Diesel Performance or you could maybe try a salvage yard.
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Freshman User
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Clay at Riffraff carries them: IPR / VGT Soleniod Pigtail Connector Repair Kit 94-07 - Riffraff Diesel Performance or you could maybe try a salvage yard.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: TX
Unplug the IPR, put your meter to ohms and it should have a "short" function. To be sure, touch the leads together and see if it makes a loud beep.
Take the leads and put one on one pin and one on the other (of the plug you pull off the IPR) an see if the wires are shorted out together. If that's good, then take one of the leads off while leaving one on, and touch it to ground. If good, leave that lead on ground and check with the other pin. What you're checking is a short between two wires and a short to ground.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Avilla, IN
Check the connectors on the heads for burnt/melted pins and plastic. Since there is no smoke during cranking and your CPS sounds like its working, the IDM may have shut itself down if it detected a short. No smoke could also mean low HPO pressure (ICP sensor, IPR, HPOP, or leak)or no fuel pressure (Bad pump, clogged filter, empty tank, leak, etc). You had an IDM code for something so lets start there.